Reg Posted July 23, 2010 Share Posted July 23, 2010 Last Sunday my Rangie refused to lift off the stops and it was making a strange intermittent squeeling noise from the air box. I parked her up and we used the OH's car. As there was a rebuilt spare in the garage I set to on monday to change it. The worst job was refitting the rubber bushes in the feet because I had a sore thumb. Having got the air to work I started stripping the old pump with a view to putting it right with a few bits. After removing the end plate I discovered that the crank was freewheeing on the shaft because the last mechanical genius had failed to locate the grub screw onto the flat, so it had eventually worked loose and started to slip. Lesson: If you replace the piston ring check the allignment of the shaft flat is opposite the access hole in the casing before fitting the con rod. If you leave the grub screw protruding a mil or two it can only locate into the flat. A small dab of locktite will also help but too much will weld it in for next time. The crankcase was coated with fine filing dust from the casing so I think the chances of reviving this particular specimen are remote. I hope that the filings won't show up in my valve block! Next stop ebay for a spare to rebuild. I also removed the motor casing to check the brushes, does anybody have a workable system for reassembling it? I spent half an hour with various methods of jamming the brushes in the open position so that the end cap would slide on. Two thin split pins eventually solved the job but there must be a better way. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Sparkes Posted July 23, 2010 Share Posted July 23, 2010 ... I also removed the motor casing to check the brushes, does anybody have a workable system for reassembling it? I spent half an hour with various methods of jamming the brushes in the open position so that the end cap would slide on. Two thin split pins eventually solved the job but there must be a better way. The Instructions section on the Rover-Renovations site probably contains the best guides for work on EAS components. The owner will also respond if you email him. http://www.rover-renovations.com/kb_results.asp?ID=144 covers changing the thermal switch, but this activity means disturbing the brushes, so you might find a tip that helps, although he does say it's tricky! HTH Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vougese39 Posted August 8, 2010 Share Posted August 8, 2010 you can tap the motor out of the body fit it to the end plate then refit and then the crank not easy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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