Frogland Posted July 25, 2010 Share Posted July 25, 2010 The flyweel timing pin is in. crankshaft woodruff is at 12 o'clock camshaft pulley timing mark is roughly in line with mark at the back of the timing case. I can't fit the IP pin in it needs about another mm to fit should i undo the 3 bolts and jiggle it in,and would this explain the black smoke i've been having when under load ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted July 25, 2010 Share Posted July 25, 2010 take the flywheel tool out, rotate engine 2 full turns & slowly bring to TDC & fit the FIP timing pin first, then refit the flywheel tool, then the crank & can should be spot on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frogland Posted July 25, 2010 Author Share Posted July 25, 2010 take the flywheel tool out, rotate engine 2 full turns & slowly bring to TDC & fit the FIP timing pin first, then refit the flywheel tool, then the crank & can should be spot on. tried it this way round and couldn't get the flywheel locking tool in,I've been rehearsing this for months, why isn't it going like clockwork!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted July 25, 2010 Share Posted July 25, 2010 try fitting the flywheel tool first with engine at TDC marks in line, then spanner on centre nut of FIP, turn slightly right & pin should hopefully slide in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frogland Posted July 25, 2010 Author Share Posted July 25, 2010 Nah it didn't work.Now what if i loosen the 3 bolts on th IP pulley then insert the pin then turn the the crank and insert the tool in the flywheel and then retighten the 3 bolts on the IP pulley.Then I undo the tensioner an proceed to replace the belt. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted July 25, 2010 Share Posted July 25, 2010 yes, that'll do because when you put the timing belt on & tension, it's 2 full turns of engine, to check timing settings. slacken belt & retension as per the manual. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frogland Posted July 25, 2010 Author Share Posted July 25, 2010 yes, that'll do because when you put the timing belt on & tension, it's 2 full turns of engine, to check timing settings. slacken belt & retension as per the manual. ok did that, it seems ok turned the crank a few times got back to tdc all the pins went in ok and the marks are lined up Hopefully i'll be able to finish everything off tomorrow.i'm a bit worried about doing the cam and crank oil seals without the special tools. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted July 25, 2010 Share Posted July 25, 2010 you can hook the old seals out fairly easily, lightly oil the inner lip of the new seals before fitting 7 very carefully pass over the cam & crank noses & press into place a suitable socket will do the cam seal & a suitable size bit of tube or wood to tap the crank seal into place, just take your time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frogland Posted July 25, 2010 Author Share Posted July 25, 2010 you can hook the old seals out fairly easily, lightly oil the inner lip of the new seals before fitting 7 very carefully pass over the cam & crank noses & press into place a suitable socket will do the cam seal & a suitable size bit of tube or wood to tap the crank seal into place, just take your time. Great,thanks for all the advice i'll be posting a bit tomorrow no doubt. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frogland Posted July 26, 2010 Author Share Posted July 26, 2010 ok changed the crank and cam seals,then i put the new belt kit on i had to redo the pump timing again by holding the centre bolt and undoing the 3 bolts then retightening once the pin could slide in.I've turned the crank an few hundred times whilst rechecking the timing marks everything seems ok put it all back together tomorrow and then turn the key and pray Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted July 26, 2010 Share Posted July 26, 2010 I'm sure it will be fine a good feling awaits after doing a good job Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frogland Posted July 27, 2010 Author Share Posted July 27, 2010 Started first time and sounds smoother although i did replace the water pump ,auxilary belt tensioner and belt and the idler pulley.I took her for a spin and all seems well maybe a little less black smoke under load. When i came back i noticed a water leak, a drip the goes between the steering pump pulley and the alternator and ends up creating a puddle on the steering box.It's probably coming from somewhere around the waterpump but i can't see the exact area.I did change the p gasket. can anyone tell me the easiest way to crank the engine when doing the tappets ? I think I remember hearing that it was possible to do it by lifting one of the front wheels in fifth gear and then turn the wheel does this sound right ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retroanaconda Posted July 27, 2010 Share Posted July 27, 2010 A socket on the crank nut works well I've found, if you have problems with the compression you could take the glow-plugs out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted July 27, 2010 Share Posted July 27, 2010 Good to read it started & runs fine I just use a socket on the crank when adjusting valves. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frogland Posted July 27, 2010 Author Share Posted July 27, 2010 Good to read it started & runs fine I just use a socket on the crank when adjusting valves. Yeah it's funny but whilst your doing a job like that you can't help imagining the worst the thought that the car may end up stuck on the drive for months. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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