katluke Posted January 22, 2011 Share Posted January 22, 2011 I have started to strip the rear floor out from my Discovery and it looks like I am going to have to replace the rear cross member aswell.I have read a few times on here that it is better to make it from heavier box section than to fit a pattern part.I am just wondering what size box section people would recommend to use and also any tips/best way to go about it ? Thanks for any replys. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkeyb0y Posted January 23, 2011 Share Posted January 23, 2011 I gotta do what you are doing in a couple of months...although boot floor I'm gonna make from thicker sheet and reinforce, the x member ill prob use a craddocks narrower repair section and chop it away from the ends... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Riz Sauvage Posted January 23, 2011 Share Posted January 23, 2011 I've just done mine, and it's not a huge job. I used 2x4 3mm box section, capped the ends, cut out the existing crossmember, slotted the box into place, and welded it in. It sounds a bit daunting, but once you've cut the old one out, it all becomes cleared, and you have a better idea of what to do, it just looks a bit tricky with all the old steel in place. Si Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkeyb0y Posted January 23, 2011 Share Posted January 23, 2011 Box it is then for me to.... Must admit, the sills are loads better made from this... Would you say this is as difficult as sills? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Walsho Posted January 23, 2011 Share Posted January 23, 2011 Hello,i have the same job in front of me.Can anyone post some pictures of how they did this job. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Range Rover Blues Posted January 24, 2011 Share Posted January 24, 2011 The hardest thing i found once I'd cut the sills away was that I needed a lot of heat for the box section and far less for the existing metal, so getting a really neat run of MIG was hard, especially as I was using stainless wire. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Riz Sauvage Posted January 24, 2011 Share Posted January 24, 2011 It's easier to do than the sills, as it's higher up, so there's no need to be lying on your back in the mud like a dirty turnip :-) Correct about the box section taking the heat better than whatever body steel you're left with, start your run on the box, with a fairly high heat, the body will take it provided you don't hang about. (if you scribe a line across the old crossmember, level with the rear door, and cut off everything aft of that, it leaves a nice "pocket" to slide your box section into, clamp up, and weld in. Hope this helps, Si Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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