Riz Sauvage

Hi Peter. If you're replacing the rubbers anyway, use a stanley knife to cut the external lip off the seal, much easier than trying to lever the glass free.

If wipers are involved the Multi function unit may be up the duff (sits behind fusebox) Take the truck to someone like Excalibur 4x4, who can hook it up to the autotune diagnostics, and diagnose what the fault is exactly.

No, long extention bar, center console out removing rubber and metal trim around levers.

I had a truck once that the seller sold me without V5, saying he'd forward it when he got it. 6 Months later, no V5, called DVLA, their records indicated it had been scrapped, applied for new logbook, sent 25 bucks, V5 promptly issued with original reg no. Si

I'd leave it at that tbh, some shove spacers under the coils to lift it even more, but you start running into probs with props, radius ars, trailing arms etc.. With the 3" body lift, you want extended brake lines for sure, you may need an extention for the gear lever, keep an eye on your steering linkages to see how far they shift out. The tank will be ok, as it's chassis mounted. As for the 2" springs, you can get away with running the standard radius arms and trailing arms, there's a chance you'll wear bushes out a bit quicker, so might be an idea to polybush everything at the time. Si

In all honesty, I would refuse point blank to provide anyone with ID too, it's my personal information, and unless it was a stipulated in the item description, it's an unreasonable request. As someone pointed out, what happens after point of sale is not your responsibility, or liability. What would you say, if I bumped into you on the street, and asked you to show me your ID, you'd tell me where to get off I reckon. Same thing.

Hey Peter, 200's with aircon over here aren't that common, hopefully someone will be able to supply a diagram, but if you're in a fix, and need a quick solution, the cluch is engaged by simply supplying it power, so as a temp bypass fix, you could run a live to it direct, via a switch. Regards, Si

It's easier to do than the sills, as it's higher up, so there's no need to be lying on your back in the mud like a dirty turnip :-) Correct about the box section taking the heat better than whatever body steel you're left with, start your run on the box, with a fairly high heat, the body will take it provided you don't hang about. (if you scribe a line across the old crossmember, level with the rear door, and cut off everything aft of that, it leaves a nice "pocket" to slide your box section into, clamp up, and weld in. Hope this helps, Si

I've just done mine, and it's not a huge job. I used 2x4 3mm box section, capped the ends, cut out the existing crossmember, slotted the box into place, and welded it in. It sounds a bit daunting, but once you've cut the old one out, it all becomes cleared, and you have a better idea of what to do, it just looks a bit tricky with all the old steel in place. Si

No, with a 2" lift, the standard brake lines are fine on level surfaces, and general driving, but put any serious articulation on the front axles, and there's every chance you'll break them, so for £60 for an extended stainless goodrich set, I'd do it.

Sorry Hombre, misunderstood what you wanted. If it was my job, I'd tackle it this way. Remove outriggers from chassis, measure back from the front end to place the outriggers for the bulkhead in the correct place. Mount bulkhead, and offer a wing up, check wheel is central to arch. Hang doors off bulkhead, so you can line up your tub. fit remaining outriggers. finish off by modding rear arch.chassis. I know it's a condensed version, but in my humble opinion, them's the bare bones.

Sounds like the headlight relay to me, find the clicking relay, clean the contacts, if it persists, swap it out with one of the others if you can, and that should cure it.

Someone better informed than me will probably be along in a while, with more accurate information, but in the meantime, there's going to be a 10 inch (give or take) difference in wheelbase, which means cutting down a 110 tub, or shortening the chassis. You'll have to fix outriggers to the chassis for the 90 bulkhead. that's the starting point anyway. Usual practice is to shorten a 110, or shorten the chassis, as you're trying in effect to stretch a 90 to 110. RRC and disco 1's have the same chassis, just a couple of different mountings. Hope this helps. and like I said, someone will probably have more accurate infor you. Si

Thanks for the kind words I will do, Just changed the front axle and shocks, and fabricated the rock sliders. Will move to bodywork, & interior, and let you know how it goes. Regards, Si

His prior feedback shows he "Faked" a uniform, or suchlike... I recon this came outta his shed.