Riz Sauvage

Hi Peter. If you're replacing the rubbers anyway, use a stanley knife to cut the external lip off the seal, much easier than trying to lever the glass free.

If wipers are involved the Multi function unit may be up the duff (sits behind fusebox) Take the truck to someone like Excalibur 4x4, who can hook it up to the autotune diagnostics, and diagnose what the fault is exactly.

No, long extention bar, center console out removing rubber and metal trim around levers.

I had a truck once that the seller sold me without V5, saying he'd forward it when he got it. 6 Months later, no V5, called DVLA, their records indicated it had been scrapped, applied for new logbook, sent 25 bucks, V5 promptly issued with original reg no. Si

I'd leave it at that tbh, some shove spacers under the coils to lift it even more, but you start running into probs with props, radius ars, trailing arms etc.. With the 3" body lift, you want extended brake lines for sure, you may need an extention for the gear lever, keep an eye on your steering linkages to see how far they shift out. The tank will be ok, as it's chassis mounted. As for the 2" springs, you can get away with running the standard radius arms and trailing arms, there's a chance you'll wear bushes out a bit quicker, so might be an idea to polybush everything at the time. Si

In all honesty, I would refuse point blank to provide anyone with ID too, it's my personal information, and unless it was a stipulated in the item description, it's an unreasonable request. As someone pointed out, what happens after point of sale is not your responsibility, or liability. What would you say, if I bumped into you on the street, and asked you to show me your ID, you'd tell me where to get off I reckon. Same thing.

Hey Peter, 200's with aircon over here aren't that common, hopefully someone will be able to supply a diagram, but if you're in a fix, and need a quick solution, the cluch is engaged by simply supplying it power, so as a temp bypass fix, you could run a live to it direct, via a switch. Regards, Si

It's easier to do than the sills, as it's higher up, so there's no need to be lying on your back in the mud like a dirty turnip :-) Correct about the box section taking the heat better than whatever body steel you're left with, start your run on the box, with a fairly high heat, the body will take it provided you don't hang about. (if you scribe a line across the old crossmember, level with the rear door, and cut off everything aft of that, it leaves a nice "pocket" to slide your box section into, clamp up, and weld in. Hope this helps, Si

I've just done mine, and it's not a huge job. I used 2x4 3mm box section, capped the ends, cut out the existing crossmember, slotted the box into place, and welded it in. It sounds a bit daunting, but once you've cut the old one out, it all becomes cleared, and you have a better idea of what to do, it just looks a bit tricky with all the old steel in place. Si

No, with a 2" lift, the standard brake lines are fine on level surfaces, and general driving, but put any serious articulation on the front axles, and there's every chance you'll break them, so for £60 for an extended stainless goodrich set, I'd do it.

Sorry Hombre, misunderstood what you wanted. If it was my job, I'd tackle it this way. Remove outriggers from chassis, measure back from the front end to place the outriggers for the bulkhead in the correct place. Mount bulkhead, and offer a wing up, check wheel is central to arch. Hang doors off bulkhead, so you can line up your tub. fit remaining outriggers. finish off by modding rear arch.chassis. I know it's a condensed version, but in my humble opinion, them's the bare bones.

Sounds like the headlight relay to me, find the clicking relay, clean the contacts, if it persists, swap it out with one of the others if you can, and that should cure it.

Someone better informed than me will probably be along in a while, with more accurate information, but in the meantime, there's going to be a 10 inch (give or take) difference in wheelbase, which means cutting down a 110 tub, or shortening the chassis. You'll have to fix outriggers to the chassis for the 90 bulkhead. that's the starting point anyway. Usual practice is to shorten a 110, or shorten the chassis, as you're trying in effect to stretch a 90 to 110. RRC and disco 1's have the same chassis, just a couple of different mountings. Hope this helps. and like I said, someone will probably have more accurate infor you. Si

Thanks for the kind words I will do, Just changed the front axle and shocks, and fabricated the rock sliders. Will move to bodywork, & interior, and let you know how it goes. Regards, Si

His prior feedback shows he "Faked" a uniform, or suchlike... I recon this came outta his shed.

Good first attempt Amigo. Make sure you have a good earthing area Smooth wire feed Clean prepped weld area. Correct amps is something that will come with trial and error, as will a steady hand. Well done man, have fun, it can only get better from what is a good start.

C'mon then, who's going to ask to see the video, and post it up here :-) If that's anything other than a wacky home built idea, I'll eat my own head.

Thanks for sharing your ideas with us. I did Morocco by bike this year (www.salaamandthanksforallthefish.blogspot.com) and will do Tunisia next year by bike, and Morocco again by Landrover. I'm busy prepping my disco at the moment, and appreciate you sharing your ideas and RR. Si

I think he means plasma line on the winch, instead of wire...

Hah hah, yes, I know, I had some dies, but it was missing several pieces I never managed to find, and thought the conversion would be more use, as I have a couple of benders here anyway :-)

You wouldn't hurt it, if the thermostat was locked shut, it would over boil, if it was locked open, it just wouldn't heat up that quickly, no damage on that one.

Re- 200/300 I'm sure someone better equipped will offer the right advice, but in my opinion, I went for the 200, as I wanted an expedition vehicle I could fix in the field. The selling points for me were : 1. less electrical gubbins 2. Better auxilliary belt layout, not prone to the probs of the tensioner issues on a single belt 3. Preferred the lt77 box over the R380 (military ordered the lt77 on their discos i believe) There are several other small factors, and each have pros, and cons, it depends how much self service you can do, and what you want the truck for.

Actually, yup, let me add a couple of pics. A lot of my work is motorcycle related, but fabrication is universal, easier on the bigger stuff. The photo of a haggard me & the Berber was taken in Sept, at Tinerhir, Morroco. The second pic is of a spring compressor I made to split the shock on a CR 250 and the last two pics are of a defunct hydraulic ram I turned into a bead breaker. I've done lots of one off pieces, but i'm not here to blow my bugle, just here to offer help if needed, & learn where I can. I have a website, (that's seriously in need of updating) www.thechopfactory.com where I've been able to gather some handy bits of tooling to do most things. so, who know where life takes us eh.

Wow, what a small world this is. Yes, adventures. I have a blog report (nearly done) at www.salaamandthanksforallthefish.blogspot.com it's about my shenanigans in North Africa in September. What brings me here.. The lovely LR. After my Morrocan adventure, I've decided that alongside another bike trip to Tunisia next year, I wanted to prepare a landrover to take back ito the desert of North Africa, so went out and bought a decidedly battleworn disco, and have started pulling things off it, and adding things to it, in preparation for the trip. So here I am, and nice to meet you guys.

Hi all, I just found this forum, and wanted to introduce myself. I'm Si, an adventure motorcyclist from Suffolk, UK. I own and run a small workshop where I pretty much fabricate anything. Hopefully I can make some worthwhile contributions while I'm here, and likewise learn a few things in return.