bothybear Posted January 31, 2011 Share Posted January 31, 2011 Evening everyone; New to this forum and to Landys in general actually. So here's the story....... Bought a 110 Defender TD5 W plate for my tree work. All was fine and dandy until it stopped starting! So.. 1.Checked the starter motor and replaced the solinoids and plunger. 2.Then the key got stuck in the ignition barrel and wouldn't budge - replaced the ignition barreland steering lock. 3.Trickle charged the battery several times. Still letting me down so have borrowed a battery from a friend and fully charged it before fitting it into my truck. Took a reading from the battery and ot shows a drain of .065 mA. My question to those in the know is "Is this an acceptable amount?" I have an alarm and immobiliser fitted as well as a simple radio. Thanks in advance Paul. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smego Posted January 31, 2011 Share Posted January 31, 2011 that is only 65 micro amps you would get that if you touched the terminals with wet fingers :-) you would have to have a pretty decent meter to reliably measure that small current as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bothybear Posted January 31, 2011 Author Share Posted January 31, 2011 Smego - I'm sure thats what the reading was. I didn't do it myself; a neighbour who is a mechanic did so I guess he's got decent kit.I'll double check the reading with him! Just been out and tried to turn the truck over and it hasn't got enough to fire up. Any ideas anyone? Thanks in advance again. Paul. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smego Posted January 31, 2011 Share Posted January 31, 2011 at 0.65 micro amps amps it would in theory take about 923,000 hours to drain the average (non heavy duty) battery! Have him check again, one way to find the circuit is to remove ALL fuses one at a time, (if no change put it straight back....!) on my old range rover I had a similar fault that I traced to a burnt out resistor in the ignition system took about 40 minutes to find it with the ammeter in line with the battery terminal as I didn't have a clip on coil at the time! Remember you have heavy duty fuses in the engine bay away from the main ones too. Basicly I had a draw of about 2 amps all the time! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stuck Posted January 31, 2011 Share Posted January 31, 2011 Paul, Smego is spot on with his calcs, 0.065 mA is something I can't measure with a very spendy meter so check that number first. If that draw rate is correct ask your mate to meaasure the resistance between the engine block and the -ve terminal on your battery. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Sparkes Posted February 1, 2011 Share Posted February 1, 2011 Come on guys, the most likely explanation is simply the way the information has been expressed by the OP, who isn't used to the terminology. At least give the OP that guidance before he double checks with the neighbour. It's likely to be 0.065 Amps, or 65 mA (milliamps). For the OPs benefit that's two ways of stating the same value of current. To comment on the original point, I'd say that's high. HTH Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smego Posted February 1, 2011 Share Posted February 1, 2011 Come on guys, the most likely explanation is simply the way the information has been expressed by the OP, who isn't used to the terminology. At least give the OP that guidance before he double checks with the neighbour. It's likely to be 0.065 Amps, or 65 mA (milliamps). For the OPs benefit that's two ways of stating the same value of current. To comment on the original point, I'd say that's high. HTH Sorry but I don't agree with your statement at all, it is likely that the OP has the wrong figure so therefore the best course of action is to get the reading rechecked and then try and fault find the issue! I think my answer is wholly helpful as it will lead to the circuit causing the fault, what more help can be given apart from actually turning up and looking myself!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Sparkes Posted February 1, 2011 Share Posted February 1, 2011 Shrug, OK. I didn't say your post was wrong or misleading. It was just that it didn't address the most likely cause of the obviously incorrect information that was being fed to us. I note that in neither your first or second post did you answer the actual question asked by the OP "Is this an acceptable amount?". Only after making that judgement does it become valid to detail a procedure for identifying any causes for excess current drain. Cheers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zim Posted February 1, 2011 Share Posted February 1, 2011 My question to those in the know is "Is this an acceptable amount?" I have an alarm and immobiliser fitted as well as a simple radio. That amount of draw is fine, as said you've got devices which draw a tiny amount of power anyway. Gordon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tanuki Posted February 1, 2011 Share Posted February 1, 2011 When you activate the alarm/immobiliser it may continue to draw a significant current for some time (15 minutes or so) before going into 'sleep' mode when the current drain will drop. If your reading is 65 Milliamps then that is probably the "not yet gone to sleep" current. Wait a while with all the doors/bonnet closed and the alarm/immobiliser active, and you may see the current drop! --Tanuki Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.