RearEngined Posted March 30, 2011 Share Posted March 30, 2011 Just a quick question everyone. While i am not 100% familiar with the Classic RangeRover 'setup' when it comes to gear selection and actual resulting operation my machine has recently shown signs it is not happy. OK, this is the only automatic 'oldschool Rangie' i have ever driven so i am not that experienced in what it should be doing (which is kind of dumb really i know). This is my road-legal rear engined offroader with the transmission and transfer case selectors turned round. At this stage i could simply go buy a wrecker's (breaker's) ZF and BW and take a gamble they are ok and swap them over. The main trouble is that when shifting the transfer case 'H' provides drive. 'N' and 'L' when shifted to (which can only be achieved with the engine shutdown and handbreak off) results in a nasty grinding noise, no movement and loadup on the trans once the engine is running. Obviously something has grenaded inside. (Interestingly in soft sand things go very 'screwie' as the machine tries to pull side to side while in "H") so most beach driving is done on hard sand and the problem doesn't occur on the highway. My thought here is that a mostly failed transfer case is no longer transferring torque to the diffs properly...? My last bit of advise i need is should i simply 'invest' in another rebuilt exchange 4HP-22 and LT230 (13-61-005) and be done with it (= big dent in bank balance)? The engine and diffs are fine. Sorry to sound like an utter newbie but yuh need to learn at some point.... Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Brownlie Posted March 30, 2011 Share Posted March 30, 2011 not sure if this would help; http://www.rakeway.co.uk/page12.html http://www.milneroffroad.com/TBOX.HTM#remote Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted March 30, 2011 Share Posted March 30, 2011 Are you putting it in neutral/park when shifting to low/high? Are you sure you haven't broken a half shaft or got adragging brake? I don't think a broken transfer case will give you the symptoms you describe... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RearEngined Posted March 30, 2011 Author Share Posted March 30, 2011 Are you putting it in neutral/park when shifting to low/high? Are you sure you haven't broken a half shaft or got adragging brake? I don't think a broken transfer case will give you the symptoms you describe... Yes, selecting main transmission into neutral (engine not running). Engine not running and handbrake off or the transfer shift remains locked. Once in 'N' or 'L' and the engine fired and running selecting 'D' just results in grinding nasty expensive noises for both 'N' or 'L'. and no movement. although i don't want to rev things as i do not want to destroy something half broken! Incidentally this is done on hard wet ocean beach sand which i hope is more giving than on normal tarmac where I certain something will explode if i bring the revs up.... As this stage I'll disconnect the rear drive driveshaft. Raise the front wheels off the ground (axle onto stands) and see what how this feel rotating the transfer case handbrake drum... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted March 31, 2011 Share Posted March 31, 2011 Normal procedure for me is slow right down, slip auto box into neutral, at walking pace slip transfer lever into neutral then whilst still rolling very slightly, push transfer box into gear. Yes it graunches, but that's life No need to rev engine or have main box in D whilst doing this. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RearEngined Posted April 1, 2011 Author Share Posted April 1, 2011 Yes, selecting main transmission into neutral (engine not running). Engine not running and handbrake off or the transfer shift remains locked. Once in 'N' or 'L' and the engine fired and running selecting 'D' just results in grinding nasty expensive noises for both 'N' or 'L'. and no movement. although i don't want to rev things as i do not want to destroy something half broken! Incidentally this is done on hard wet ocean beach sand which i hope is more giving than on normal tarmac where I certain something will explode if i bring the revs up.... As this stage I'll disconnect the rear drive driveshaft. Raise the front wheels off the ground (axle onto stands) and see what how this feel rotating the transfer case handbrake drum... OK so today i disconnected the rear driveshaft at the diff and raised the front wheels. All wheels drive through the diffs so no broken axles as far as i can tell (i have had plenty of experience here with ordinary cars). The transfer case rotated properly in H and N plus in L without any nasty jams or massive clunks (although it was as expected hard work in L compared to H and N). The only thing i noticed was the huge (i feel) amount of backlash in the whole system on the diffs and in the transfer case. The output for the rearward driveshaft (the flange) is loose as hell in the transfer case i.e. i can rock it side to side and up/down more than i would have thought possible. I've never worked on Rangie stuff so what i am getting the feeling of is that the system is truly on the worn side but still working. It would not pass on a classy RR of this year and model but on this hard case machine who cares. Re-attached the rear driveshaft and following Bowies procedure selected the transfer case through the 3 stages. This time things worked and in L i now understand how the machine has immense torque being fed to the wheels for use at slow speeds and therefore low engine revs... The main ZF trans wasn't as hot as when i had the machine at the beach last and the trouble last occurred so i'll test it again once in that situation. It's possible the trans is in need of help.... Thanks for the guidance and help guys. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Range Rover Blues Posted April 1, 2011 Share Posted April 1, 2011 The transfer box and gearbox can obvioulsy be swpped seperately. A decnet transfer box second hand will save you quite a bit of cash compared to a recon unit, though it sounds a bit like the linkage needs adjusting before you try anything else. Having fitted a second hand Auto box that the seller assured me ran really well before the car was broken I was a bit p***ed off to be back on a breakdown truck just 180 miles later. I later discovered that Ashcroft's don't recomend putting new oil into an old box, especially if it's missed a few changes in its life, as all the old cronk in the oil gets stirred up by new oil (which is detergent) and dumped into the governor. I'm still saving for a rebuilt box! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JST Posted April 5, 2011 Share Posted April 5, 2011 i will have a 300tdi autobox up for grabs soon, from a disco approx 150k on it, oil changed every 12mths since new. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.