Tazz070299 Posted April 7, 2011 Share Posted April 7, 2011 I've done a search but couldn't find any reference, so wondered if anyone has experience of using the attached rust proofing products Click hereClick here. I have experience of products like Kurust/Jenolite etc but they have not been totally succesful.I've also used POR 15, which I found to be good, but as it goes hard in the tin after using a small amount I've got fed up of buying new tins only for most of it to be wasted. It gets very very expensive that way. I want to tidy up the front bumper and outside of the rear cross member - not serious rust but small bubbles follwing chips and scrapes. So I'm looking for a rust convertor/inhibitor which I will then top coat with red oxide and a satin black paint. I'd like to keep clear of hammerite, which I've used underneath cars but I don't think suits bumpers. Any thoughts? Tazz Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian Barrett Posted April 8, 2011 Share Posted April 8, 2011 I have used Electrox from Bilt Hamber and have just finished using it as a primer before using POR15 on my A-frame and brackets, trailing arms and exhaust brackets. I did this one the chassis in the engine bay on my TVR 2 years ago and it still looks like it was done yesterday. I contacted Bilt Hamber when I was doing the TVR because of the bewildering array of products. They advised scrubbing off rust, flaky powdercoat etc then using Electrox only - no rust cure. Then overcoat with your preferred topcoat. Its lovely stuff to use. Like painting on molten aluminium. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tazz070299 Posted April 8, 2011 Author Share Posted April 8, 2011 I have used Electrox from Bilt Hamber and have just finished using it as a primer before using POR15 on my A-frame and brackets, trailing arms and exhaust brackets. Hmm! POR15 over the top of Electrox, hadn't thought of that. Although would still have the problem of POR15 going hard in the tin if you only use a smal part of it. Tazz Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian Barrett Posted April 9, 2011 Share Posted April 9, 2011 Buy small tins then Tazz Frosts sell packs of 6 and I know they have some having just phoned them two weeks ago to buy a bigger tin. I have a couple of small tins on my bench, I'd say they are about the size of half a mug of tea. I can get you a size if you're interested. It goes a long way though. One tin would probably do 1/4 of the chassis for one coat. Thinking about it, does it go hard in the tin? POR15 recommend you pour some out into another container, thoroughly clean the lip of the tin and reseal it. I've never had a problem with the lid sealing - as I know other have - because I keep the lip very very clean. I know a mate who uses a syringe to take it out of the tin and squirt it into another container. Alright if you have syringes around I guess. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bishbosh Posted April 9, 2011 Share Posted April 9, 2011 Many people's experience on here of POR15 is that it is good when applied to rusty metal, but comes off in sheets when applied to anything else. Certainly my experience. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian Barrett Posted April 9, 2011 Share Posted April 9, 2011 Interesting you should say that Bishbosh I got a bit carried away after cleaning and getting ready for painting the chassis and I painted a lot of the rear of the chassis and some of the rear axle. Then I realised I'd have to rough it before putting on an overcoat because I'd left it a couple of days. I got a wire brush on the grinder and gave it a whiz around. The axle roughed up OK but the POR15 on the flanks of the chassis came off in big flakes. I'm now rethinking my plan, I might use Metal Ready or I might use Electrox before using POR15, I haven't yet decided. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Sparkes Posted April 9, 2011 Share Posted April 9, 2011 I expect I'm missing something, but I understood POR stood for 'Paint Over Rust'. What circumstances or properties suggest it's a good idea to use POR to 'Paint Over Paint'? Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian Barrett Posted April 9, 2011 Share Posted April 9, 2011 For me I'm interested in the properties of POR rather than it being any kind of shortcut It is a hard protection which doesn't chip easily and its this rather than just wanting a quick/easy life that I'm after. Am I using the wrong stuff on the clean chassis of the Landy then? The problem I guess is the top and bottom of the chassis is nicely? rusty whereas the flanks are relatively clean. I have the alternative of using Electrox and Blackcote or Chassis Black as I have all them available. I have to say I do like using Electrox. I will be spraying the entire underside with waxoyl/dinitrol this summer too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tazz070299 Posted April 9, 2011 Author Share Posted April 9, 2011 I expect I'm missing something, but I understood POR stood for 'Paint Over Rust'. What circumstances or properties suggest it's a good idea to use POR to 'Paint Over Paint'? Thanks. The trouble is that rust doesn't obligingly end in nice clean lines and certainly I always want to feather the edges to ensure nothing is missed. It won't help therefore if,over time POR 15 just flakes away from paint or clean metal. Tazz BTW didn't realise POR was an acronym for Paint Over Rust. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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