Cynic-al Posted April 14, 2011 Share Posted April 14, 2011 May be a daft question but is the polarity important on sensors? Ie air temp, water temp, vr etc. I've wired everything and couldn't see any obvious markings but thought i'd better check. I assume as they are 2 wire they are only a resistance or pulse and it won't matter. Otherwise all it needs is the starter swapping, key turning and fingers crossing :/ Also, I have a V3 ECU which I got second hand with a tach cable, is this tach as in tach signal from a coil if your not running edis or tach output as in driving a tacho? I forgot to write down the pin number so its probably pretty hard for you to answer Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted April 15, 2011 Share Posted April 15, 2011 VR is polarity sensitive, if you're running EDIS then it's simple - one way round it works, the other it won't 2-pin temperature sensors aren't polarity sensitive, the lambda sensor connections are although the heater wires (usually both white) aren't. Ref the TACH wire - without knowing WTF you've got there, it could be the TACH input (eg from a coil/VR sensor) so you'll need to check how it's wired up internally (post a photo with the lid off), if it's not been built for what you need then it may need modifying. It could also have an additional tachometer output on one of the spare pins, but again you'd have to pop the lid to looksee. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cynic-al Posted April 15, 2011 Author Share Posted April 15, 2011 Thats great, thanks lambda i have 2 white which i've gone live & earth for heater, grey to ground and black to the MS i also have switch maps on pin 3, kinda obvious what it does but i'm not sure how its wired yet, live for map1 ground for map 2? then a few more wires, one to pin 4, pin 6 (both custom) and pin 30. From the diagram pin 30 isn't used on the rover v8. I'm told the board was initially built for running the coil packs direct but was later converted to edis so the tacho wire could be for this? I'm confident its capable of doing what I want as it ran an RV8 in its past life, just need to make sure i get the smoke flowing to the right places Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted April 15, 2011 Share Posted April 15, 2011 Like I said, best thing is to pop the lid & take a photo, could be anything in there... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cynic-al Posted May 11, 2011 Author Share Posted May 11, 2011 Sorry for the delay, I'm now confident the tach is to drive a tacho. The car is up and running, big thanks to Roger for putting time into helping me tune, and for pointing out that the reason I couldn't get the tables to work right is I didn't have a vac hose attached... well i'd followed the wiring diagram!!! Needs a bit more refinement to finish it off. Also have a question about if i want to run the pwm extra air valve. Looking at the board it hasn't been modified for pwm, so i need to replace Q4, remove Q20, remove R39 and stick a diode across the valve to dump any back emf? Also the valve is connected to a switched live and pin 30? Here is a pic of the board Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted May 11, 2011 Share Posted May 11, 2011 Crikey, that's an old one of mine, and been hacked about too (here endeth the warranty! ). I'd give it a clean & spray conformal coating before reinstalling it. Remove Q4, Q20, D8, R39 fit TIP122 (with mica insulator) in Q16, jumper D8 to IGBTOUT, Q4 centre pin to R57, Q4 bottom pin via diode to S12. Ignore the rest of the picture, it's a neater way of doing the EDIS mods. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cynic-al Posted May 11, 2011 Author Share Posted May 11, 2011 You'll regret admitting to that! Its still doing its job though! Is D1 instead of bridging at the pwm valve? Will any component do? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted May 11, 2011 Share Posted May 11, 2011 It's there to short back-EMF from the valve to the 12v supply, so yes it's instead of the one at the PWM valve. Any of the same component type will do (D1-3,D9-11,D24 are all 1N4001 diodes). Looking at it again, you can leave D8 in if you want, it's doing a similar thing (holding back-EMF below 22v). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cynic-al Posted May 11, 2011 Author Share Posted May 11, 2011 OK thanks, will try tune it without but i have a feeling its going to need it (that or it's because i can't stop fiddling with stuff ) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted May 11, 2011 Share Posted May 11, 2011 You don't need (or probably even want) closed-loop idle when trying to tune it. You need to get it tuned *before* trying to set the PWM idle up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cynic-al Posted May 12, 2011 Author Share Posted May 12, 2011 You might not need it, this is me we are talking about Will see how it goes Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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