V8david Posted April 21, 2011 Share Posted April 21, 2011 3.5 V8 mated to ZF 4 speed autobox, 1989 Well the engine popped out like a dream today, unfortunately so did the torque converter... I know about relocating it correctly and possible damage if not done properly. My question is what should the dimension be from the bellhousing face to the torque converter lug faces? If this is right you know it's properly located? Also, as and when the engine is put back in the vehicle and the box and engine are reunited, how do you access the bolts to fix the torque converter to the flex plate? Is it through the starter motor aperture in the bellhousing or from underneath with the bellhousing bottom faceplate jobby removed? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted April 21, 2011 Share Posted April 21, 2011 I think each box code has a different figure, Ashcrofts may be able to help here, but for most it should be ~51mm. You can of course work this out whilst the engine is out. Measure the distance between the bellhousing flange on the back of the engine and rearmost face of the flex plate, add 3-4mm and this gives you your rough dimension. When the converter is fitted up and the engine bolted to it, there's normally 3-4mm clearance between the flex plate and converter -this is normal When fitting it there's 3 distinct sets of splines to get lined up, just keep rotating and lifting and pushing and it will drop on eventually. The flex plate -> converter botls are fitted through the removable plate from underneath, the starter is an absolute pig to remove/refit with it in the engine bay, so I would avoid it at all costs if it were me. Make sure to loctite them in place! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
V8david Posted April 21, 2011 Author Share Posted April 21, 2011 Many thanks for the super fast reply, much appreciated. There is a thread round here somewhere with the figures relating to box numbers from Ashcrofts. I shall attempt to find it... Thanks again. found it... Post 8 in above thread gives Ashcrofts dimensions... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Range Rover Blues Posted April 22, 2011 Share Posted April 22, 2011 If you measure the distance between the face of your flexplate and the back of the engine block, the lugs on the TC should be about 3mm further in, this is the gap you should see when the gearbox and engine ar bolted fully up. Keep checking as you assemble that the TC is free form the flex plate and you should be fine. When trying to fit it back in you will think it's home but often isn't, they are a pain. If it wobbles at all it is not fully seated and IIRC the splines will be in (both sets) but not the dog clutch which drives the guts of the pump, so you may have to turn it quite a way before it engages properly. To put the bolt back in you need the blanking plate off and a ratchet on the crank pulley. Turn the engine 'till one of the holes in the starter plate is just to one side of the sump bowl, reach inside with Golum's fingers and fit the screw. Bit of a PITA this, you can see if the lugs and hole line up through the removable drain plate right at the bottom of the bellhousing, but you can hardly get in with the screw because of the sump. Once you have one in the other 3 are easy. Tighten them all up evenly. There is no specific order or special location for them. I found it easier to set of of the lugs where I knew I needed it and put a chalk mark on the belhousing before it was hard up to the engine. then rotate the flex plate to the chalk mark and feel for alignment with your little finger. First one took me 35 minutes, second time it took me 5. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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