moore101 Posted June 8, 2011 Share Posted June 8, 2011 Laid my hands on a 4pin today, now to either find myself access to a hefty lathe, or £125. Being a tight apprentice I think I know which'll be more likely. Swarf to follow :/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex.N Posted August 6, 2012 Share Posted August 6, 2012 Hi guys, I've been wondering about the possibilities of a p38 centre fitting into a long nose case, so i googled it and here i am! and it's been done! Well Done! How have you got on with these? So it's basically, machine away the flutes, reduce the OD and machine where the bearing sits? How much did you have to change where the bearing sits? Thanks Alex Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hybrid_From_Hell Posted August 8, 2012 Author Share Posted August 8, 2012 Oh if it was that simples Made a number of these now The Long nose casing can vary hugely some need a VAST amount of grinding, others less, the late "Flat" carrier cap seem to be the ones needing less. You also need to machine the carrier bearing journals inboard, and the adjusters ned to be thinned too, all in all its a pig of work BUT you get a cheaop unit and of all the ones we have made, pegged and unpeged some in Big BHP racers NONE have failed. In fact I have never ever seen a P38 4 pin broken, normally its the pinion bearings / carrier bearing CW&P that blow / wear Hope this helps Nige Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex.N Posted August 8, 2012 Share Posted August 8, 2012 Thanks for the reply, By carrier bearing journals i presume you mean the two parts the bearings press on to? Is there a standard amount you have to take off or is it different for each casing? And you mean the threaded nuts that adjust backlash? is that because it's a wider unit going in the casing? I guess i'll find these things out as i go along but it's good to see it's been done and any tips are much appreciated. Thanks Alex Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mickeyw Posted August 8, 2012 Share Posted August 8, 2012 Weird I only looked up this thread 2 nights ago. I have the bits gathered for such a build Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex.N Posted August 30, 2012 Share Posted August 30, 2012 Just had a quick measure up. it looks to me that the journal on the back side of the crown wheel needs lengthening by about 4.5mm is that sounding right? Just waiting on a vernier height gauge and i can get some more accurate measurements! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hybrid_From_Hell Posted August 30, 2012 Author Share Posted August 30, 2012 5.4mm and the 2 x side adjusters have to be shaved down too ) Nige Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex.N Posted August 31, 2012 Share Posted August 31, 2012 Cheers! better too little than too much! it was only rough measurements with a steel rule to get ideas! Thanks I'll post my progress if i succeed! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ma7amad Posted July 19, 2023 Share Posted July 19, 2023 can i swap 4 pin rear diff. direct to replace the 2 pin front diff. in p38a range rover? thanks mohamed Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hybrid_From_Hell Posted July 20, 2023 Author Share Posted July 20, 2023 On 7/19/2023 at 8:42 AM, ma7amad said: can i swap 4 pin rear diff. direct to replace the 2 pin front diff. in p38a range rover? thanks mohamed yes Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ma7amad Posted July 25, 2023 Share Posted July 25, 2023 On 7/21/2023 at 2:16 AM, Hybrid_From_Hell said: yes thank you boss, although mechanic didn't agree to insert the 4 pin diff that i got it from donor japanese imported 2002 model with very low millage and diff like new. anyway i would replace it in my 98 4.6 autobiography front diff and see the difference. thanks a lot Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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