isbjorn Posted July 21, 2011 Share Posted July 21, 2011 Hi. I thought I would check with you guys before I start my repair adventure. My return cable from the intercooler to my extension tank melted and that resulted in my engine running almost dry (the temp dropped to 0, must have missed it raising to red first). I stopped, fixed the cable and filled her up with water again and the temp went back to normal. She run fine for 10 min but after that i got a loud hammering sound that follows the engine revs. She drives fine, and no white smoke. But the noise is super loud and not very nice... Any ideas. I thought It can be the head gasket has broken between two cylinders (cant see any leak along the sides from the head). Or maybe its all turned a bit skew. I would assume it got overheated but Im not sure what the results may be... thanks for any tips. ---------------- 1999 TD5 defender Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
inaine Posted July 21, 2011 Share Posted July 21, 2011 sounds done for Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
isbjorn Posted July 21, 2011 Author Share Posted July 21, 2011 You mean the gasket or the whole engine? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stuck Posted July 21, 2011 Share Posted July 21, 2011 It certainly sounds as though the head gasket has gone. I can't think how just the gasket failing would result in a loud noise though. What ever it is I wouldn't risk running the engine until you've had it examined. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Les Henson Posted July 22, 2011 Share Posted July 22, 2011 If the head gasket had blown between cylinders, then you would get smoke - due to the poor compression on the two cylinders. You may be able to identify the location of the noise by putting the end of a large screwdriver to various points on the engine and the other end to your ear. This localises the noise and makes it easier to determine where it's coming from. Les. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
isbjorn Posted July 22, 2011 Author Share Posted July 22, 2011 Thanks. Ill try that. What else is the possible stuff that can happen when overheating? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Les Henson Posted July 22, 2011 Share Posted July 22, 2011 Mainly the cylinder bores and/or pistons. Cylinder head warp/crack. If the pistons were trying to sieze in the bores, then associated stress could then be on small ends and perhaps big ends. Engine oil will keep the crank cooler, so mains and big ends may not be affected. Les. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
isbjorn Posted July 22, 2011 Author Share Posted July 22, 2011 Is there any standard stuff I should replace while I still have her opened, except gasket and bolts. I have some week memory of the early td5s having some plastic parts that is replaceable with metal ones... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nicksmelly Posted July 22, 2011 Share Posted July 22, 2011 I had a 300Tdi Disco that overheated while I was speeding down the motorway daydreaming... The sound was horrible, sounded like the big ends had gone and it was knocking like a knocky thing. I got it recovered to a garage who had a listen and told me it was head gasket. They fixed it and the knocking noise was no more. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
isbjorn Posted July 23, 2011 Author Share Posted July 23, 2011 Ha, thats what I wanna hear... Ill dismantle it tomorrow. Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stuck Posted July 23, 2011 Share Posted July 23, 2011 Whilst you are in there change the horrible plastic head location dowels & if it hasn't been done recently the injector wiring loom. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
isbjorn Posted July 23, 2011 Author Share Posted July 23, 2011 Ive read somewhere that you should not under any circumstances change the plastic for metal ones on vin 2A-3A 00000 models (ruffly 2002-2003 td5s). Is this true, Ive got a earlier one XA 00000 so It should be fine. Can anyone point me to the right part no? I guess its YLL500040 but im not sure. Its for a 99 TD5 XA cheers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
isbjorn Posted July 24, 2011 Author Share Posted July 24, 2011 Update: So Ive removed the head and the gasket seams perfectly fine on both sides, as does the head itself. Very strange, the question is if its good news or bad? If the everything looks fine, the cylinders is smooth. the head is streight and the gasket is like new (kind of, it left a lot of plastic recidues on the metal, but it not cracked), what the heck has then happended to my td5? Also the plastic dowel has melted, but that should not effect the engine right? any guessses? All I know is it overheated (problebly) and then a loud fast hammering noise following the revs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carlosbeldia Posted July 25, 2011 Share Posted July 25, 2011 ECU going to limp mode? CKP sensor in short circuit? burnt oil? injectors caput? have you revised cylinders balance in Nanocom? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
isbjorn Posted July 25, 2011 Author Share Posted July 25, 2011 Ill google those errors, thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
isbjorn Posted July 31, 2011 Author Share Posted July 31, 2011 Ive just removed my oil sump and it seems like its the nr 1 crankshaft bearing that is worn. It is glitching quite a bit. The other ones seems fine thou, but ill change them anyway. Thanks for the tips,and ill let you know how it goes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nicksmelly Posted July 31, 2011 Share Posted July 31, 2011 Glad you found the fault. Hope you manage to fix it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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