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Disco Body lift


godzilla84

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I want to lift my 300tdi disco by about 2 inches (for taller tyres)and I have been looking at the various suspension packages and not really come to a conclusion yet but somebody suggested a body lift to me as an alternative and I wondered what this involves and what the merits are as opposed to a suspension lift. If I opted for the suspension I would fit it myself, is a body lift, DIY friendly or best entrusted to a garage?

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body lift you just need to undo bolts, jack up body, fit spacers and bolt up. Don't think its too hard. There will be a gap between the body and bumpers, gearsticks will be slightly lower and there may be an issue with seat belt mounts and steering column, but I think they are ok with 2 inch bodylift, or you can buy extended bits of ebay for not much. Its done as it doesn't affect the steering geometry and prop angles, both of which can be rectified when fitting a suspension lift, but at cost. So a body lift is usually much cheaper than suspension lift.

HTH :)

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I want to lift my 300tdi disco by about 2 inches (for taller tyres)and I have been looking at the various suspension packages and not really come to a conclusion yet but somebody suggested a body lift to me as an alternative and I wondered what this involves and what the merits are as opposed to a suspension lift. If I opted for the suspension I would fit it myself, is a body lift, DIY friendly or best entrusted to a garage?

Don't have time for a full reply, but a body lift has a couple of gotchas (seat belt strengtheners for one) but IS an easy enough job. you will need four axle stands and a good trolley jack and I am sure that the work is detailed on this forum somewhere..

You will need to replace the flexi brake an dclutch hoses and, in my opinion, at two inches you are getting rather too close for comfort to what the steering shaft (the one with the UJs in it) can accommodate, and your levers will be a bit short. You will also need to move the radiator, and extend or re-route the fuel hose to the engine,, the fuel filler pipe, and the vacuum hose to the servo etc etc - there are a lot of little jobs you need to think about... Basically anything which is chassis at one end and body at the other needs looking at.

I thought long and hard about what lift to use on mine, and came up with 30mm as my perfect height (search the forum for Goldilocks ;) ) and I can run 235.85s without problems under trimmed arches on standard suspension.

Hope this helps

Roger

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That is food for thought. A body lift does sound like a lot of work (not that changing the suspension is a small job either) One thing that was pointed out to me was that if I change the suspension properly and go for cranked trailing arms etc it means I'm replacing all the knackered15 year old shocks and springs and while I'm at it, the bushes as well.

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speak to a guy called gerard (Wizardsec@aol.com) he does the complete body lift kit with everything you need for the job i only use his kits

i supply and fit these kits if you want it fitted, the only thing you need to remember is that if the body mounts are rotten you will need to repair them as the body wont be able to rest on the top of the chassis any more

tel

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That is food for thought. A body lift does sound like a lot of work (not that changing the suspension is a small job either) One thing that was pointed out to me was that if I change the suspension properly and go for cranked trailing arms etc it means I'm replacing all the knackered15 year old shocks and springs and while I'm at it, the bushes as well.

It is not that hard. It is something you can do in a day. You do not have to change anything on the steering shaft, but there are a few things to need to loosen off and retighten once the lift is completed. You can get longer brake lines or simply move the mounting points for the lines. Just remember that a spring lift does not allow bigger tyres unless you stuff up your articulation. A body lift is the only way to get bigger tyres under it and still get full axle movement.

If you want the ultimate body lift kit you buy one of these. I think it is over engineered though. http://www.lrautomotive.com.au/contents/en-us/d623.html#p291

Or cheaper on Ebay if you hurry http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Body-Lift-Kit-2-inch-Range-Rover-Discovery-White-Tiger-/300578970025?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item45fbe719a9#ht_500wt_1156

About what tyre size you can fit with what, you should read this as well http://www.lrautomotive.com.au/contents/en-us/d713.html

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speak to a guy called gerard (Wizardsec@aol.com) he does the complete body lift kit with everything you need for the job i only use his kits

The wizard bloke made my spacers to order, and delivered in a couple of days! Excellent service!

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This might help

Installing a Body Lift.

A basic guide for a Land Rover Discovery Tdi

A body lift is not as straightforward as it may seem. You need to do a bit more than put in a set of spacers under the body mounts.

This is a basic guide to lifting the body on a Discovery and can be use for other lifts as and when required.

The first job you need to do is replace the five flexible rubber brake lines.

There are two on each front wheel and one over the back axle.

If you instal a two-inch body lift I would recommend having plus 4 inch extended brake lines fitted.

Below is a list of “other” parts required to do the job.

10 body spacers

10 long bolts (3/8 unf x 6 inch long)

4 rear floor support spacers

4 extended body tie rods

2 radiator mounts

2 rear bumper brackets

2 front bumper brackets.

A few days before you begin your body lift its advisable to spray the mounting bolts with a good quality penetrating oil.

Begin with taking off the bumpers, or just the plastic end caps if you want to lift the bumpers at a later date. Bear in mind that the bumpers are attached to the chassis so once you have lifted the body you will have a 2-inch gap between the body and bumper.

Remove the 4 body tie rods; these attach the seat belts to the chassis.

Slacken off the steering column bolts; don’t remove the bolts, as the splines on the shaft will only need to move about 10mm as the body is lifted.

Undo and remove the 5 body mounting bolts on one side, and remove the nuts on the bolts on the other side (leave the bolts in position)

With the aid of a Hi Lift jack begin to lift the side with the bolts removed. Periodically check that no electrical wires etc are being pulled out of place; also keep an eye on the air filter pipe work as this is mounted on the body. The clutch pipe work will need to be kept in mind as this is also attached to the body. There is enough slack in both of these components so no extra modifications should be required.

Once you have gained enough lift you can start putting in the spacers. When one side is complete continue with the other side. Secure all the body mounting bolts once all the spacers are in.

The rear floor support spacers bolt onto the brackets on either side of the rear suspension spring, and support the floor !

The radiator is chassis mounted so when you have lifted the body fit the two top mounting spacers onto the two pins located on the sides of the radiator.

Attach the extended body tie rods.

Check the steering shaft and re tighten the bolts. Lift the bumpers as and when required.

Regards

wizard

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