HoSS Posted September 25, 2006 Author Share Posted September 25, 2006 Cheers Nige, but i'm possibly more confused now Did you look at my manifold pics on page 2? The motor was a '92 3.5 Carb, but i'm dropping on an EFI manifold which was probably from some RR. I have 2 pipes under the manifold, so it doesnt seem to match either of your cases... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HoSS Posted September 25, 2006 Author Share Posted September 25, 2006 I found this thread http://www.v-8.org.uk/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=133 So, i guess my LH (looking from front) pipe goes to at outlet on the water pump front (hose that goes to rad bottom) which i dont have?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hybrid_From_Hell Posted September 25, 2006 Share Posted September 25, 2006 thanks BBC.another pic, best i have at the mo. E is not the fuel reg, that is where it should be behind. It has one black wire coming out & seems to be air rather than fuel. K Thats a Flapper system, ...........but I think an early one Need to have a lookie at some bits and bobs and will be back with some info Should be able to do tommorow Hold tight we will get there Nige Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HoSS Posted September 26, 2006 Author Share Posted September 26, 2006 Cheers! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hybrid_From_Hell Posted September 26, 2006 Share Posted September 26, 2006 Ok Here goes Please bear in mind words are trickier than pics and I am knacerked from another 450 mile round trip day Bear in mind that there are a number of variants, lots of the bits will fit, but things then don't all line up, main culprits being the water pump bottom pulley alternator bracket PAS Pump Bracket type puley tensioners and belts etc etc You best bet is to get a "Front End" complete from a V8 90 or RR and use the lot, but here goies with an explaination of the options. 1 V8 90s Although "Carbed" my Eales is this, a V8 EFI but with a V8 90 front end, using the timing cover bottom pulley water pump, PAS Pump water and PAS pulley fan belts and alternator bracket and alternator itself. These all conect to the timing cover hoses to the efi manifold, a tweak but it works Carbed V8 90 has 1 tube out of the front, and a pipe running underneath, hoses fir to the 2 holes casings on the timing cover - even here there are 2 differing PAS pumps which throw belts at different spacings. and a selection of belts dependant on PAS non PAS alternator size and A/C all bits then vary dependant on options, 2 RRs 3.5s Take tablets. Some have a pipe underneath and another in the manifold, some have a pipe coming out of the rear of the pipe in the manidold and a tube around, and the air con ones have a different themostat housing with a tube out of, the number of bottom pulleys and variants is amazing 4 differernt PAS pumps and pulleys, getting the piccie. The prob is you might make the 2 pipes line up, but if nay of the front part of the engine doesn't match it may well fit but nothing will linme up.......... 3.9s Although again a selection of bits on the 3.9s, the basis here is from the front looking at the front of the enegine the RHS (pass) side of the inlet manifold at the front has 1 pipe that goes to the pair of tubes that run down the drivers rocer cover, and the other pipe goes from just 1 hole on the timing cover to the 2nd of the tubes running down the rocker cover. These Timing covers atre differwent and the water pumps that fit them mean different throws of pulleys hence you'll need matching parts for it to all line up There are even different types of twin pipes, some are early and have a bleed in the rad, the later ones the rad is not bleedable and the pipe has a "Tower" and is bleed from there, do not fit a non bleed pipe to a non bled rad ! Nige Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HoSS Posted September 26, 2006 Author Share Posted September 26, 2006 I found a goo dflow diagram on RAVE (dont have it on this PC), its not exactly the same as my pipes but i get the idea. The left hand pipe is the return, it goes onto the back of the water pump body. The right hand pipe is the heater feed, but this is where the confusion lies. All of the diagrams i have, show this coming from the manifold front. which i my case it does, except it also has a hose coming fowards. I dont know why this would be the case, as that just bypasses the heater (perhaps only partially). My best guess right now is to block off this foward pipe. I certainly need to get good flow through the heater as my LPG vapouriser is also in that line. If this turns out to be iffy, i will connect it to tha water pump 2nd rear outlet & see what happens. I did find one pic (some misguided pervert with a RV8 in a j**p) which shows the 2 hoses connected to the water pump rear. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hybrid_From_Hell Posted September 26, 2006 Share Posted September 26, 2006 Post up piccies of exactly what you have ? You should have 2 pipes at the rear and 2 at the front but HOW the front connect to WHAT is the key ? Nige Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HoSS Posted September 30, 2006 Author Share Posted September 30, 2006 Ok, motor is now running with the Efi manifold. Although not on injection yet! My LPG system is the easier first step, the petrol will come online in a few weeks. I'll post some pics up, when i get it tidy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HoSS Posted October 17, 2006 Author Share Posted October 17, 2006 Well here are some pics of the EFi conversion / Megasquirt / EDIS points of note: -No Dizzy! -Turned plenum around as it makes the intake pipes way eaiser. this required some minor replumbing of breather/water pipes, but worth it. - EDIS coils mounts are from Orion/Mondeo, welded togther & modified. -Black box on RHS is Megasquirt relay board & LPG wiring. (edit: the one that isnt in the pic oops) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HoSS Posted October 17, 2006 Author Share Posted October 17, 2006 Ok, other pics: - Black box with lec-trickery bits inside - VR sensor & wheel (165-ish mm dia) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bull Bar Cowboy Posted October 17, 2006 Share Posted October 17, 2006 It’s good to see the final result …………… looking good B) I noticed that you also turned the rocker covers around ……….. any reason ? I think turning the plenum is a good idea, I have thought about doing this when I fit MS as the AFM is no longer needed and the inlet piping from the snorkel will be a lot easier. How did you do away with the dizzy ? …… I assume that you maybe fitted the later timing cover, although I thought that this needed the longer crankshaft nose. Ian Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HoSS Posted October 17, 2006 Author Share Posted October 17, 2006 It’s good to see the final result …………… looking good B) I noticed that you also turned the rocker covers around ……….. any reason ? I think turning the plenum is a good idea, I have thought about doing this when I fit MS as the AFM is no longer needed and the inlet piping from the snorkel will be a lot easier. How did you do away with the dizzy ? …… I assume that you maybe fitted the later timing cover, although I thought that this needed the longer crankshaft nose. Ian I turned the rocker covers around because the filler neck interfered with the throttle linkage. Nope same timing cover. Dizzy was chopped off just above the mounting flange, and the remaining shaft & drive re inserted. this leaves a small stub to cap. The bushing which the shaft runs in is still intact & since the camshaft gear pushes the shaft upwards against the thrust washer - it seems to be ok. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bull Bar Cowboy Posted October 17, 2006 Share Posted October 17, 2006 Ah yes………… later models had the flame trap and filler transposed ……. Yes, the dizzy mod makes sense………… HFH just likes to leave his dizzy in there with no leads to baffle the ‘experts’ So its LPG next ? Mine will be staying on petrol ………… next for me is EDIS via MS, then over to full MS. Ian Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HoSS Posted October 17, 2006 Author Share Posted October 17, 2006 Ah yes………… later models had the flame trap and filler transposed …….Yes, the dizzy mod makes sense………… HFH just likes to leave his dizzy in there with no leads to baffle the ‘experts’ So its LPG next ? Mine will be staying on petrol ………… next for me is EDIS via MS, then over to full MS. Ian Yeah, i just didnt want anything sitting in there, that was no use (don't tell SWMBO ) EDIS 8 sits in place of the coil too. LPG was operational before EFi switch over - In fact it was very nice to have an alternative fuel to start on befor e the Efi/MS was running. It's also quite nice to know that should MS or any part of petrol system fail, i can run on LPG & EDIS in fallback. when you say 'full MS' you mean take EDIS out? why bother - surely its more reliable to leave the separate EDIS system and have MS adv/ret it... p.s. for those interested - I am working on a better dashboard display unit for MS (than Megaview) it will be a small 128x64 PLED display. more news later. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hybrid_From_Hell Posted October 17, 2006 Share Posted October 17, 2006 Well Done !!!!!!!!! Ypu've got there, and boy you have worked at it ! Nice install, I do hate the "Yes But" Posts But Yes But In the nicest way there a bolt missing from your VR Sensor top mount to the timing case, but even more imprtnatly grind a flat on the bottom RH edge as it seems to be rubbing the hose badly.... Other than that nice to see you spake to Mr Magnecor too, nice aren't hey (in a tarty bling yooo brooooh sort of cheque book frightening way ) Enjoy Nige Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HoSS Posted October 17, 2006 Author Share Posted October 17, 2006 In the nicest way there a bolt missing from your VR Sensor top mount to the timing case, but even more imprtnatly grind a flat on the bottom RH edge as it seems to be rubbing the hose badly.... That bolt was missing before i started, it looked like it had never been there from the evidence. Should there be one there? Yeah i just saw the abrasion point also (I did take that pic by holding the camera in a gap only my hand fits into!) Will check it out. Cheers for the compliments Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hybrid_From_Hell Posted October 18, 2006 Share Posted October 18, 2006 From Memory something sometimes bolted there as an extar, can't remember what, but its a blind hole (ie goes nowhere) whereas the one an inch or so below goes through the timing cover into the block I mounted the VR sensor in exactly the same place, so acess to the top hole was restricted, I just used a short headed allen bolt, without this I am wondering what will stop it pivotting as I am (guessing may be wrong ?) just having the bottom bolt in place may not be enough,? Like the mod on the dizzy BTW can you post up pics / write up etc so I can copy it benefit from the experience ? Nige Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HoSS Posted October 18, 2006 Author Share Posted October 18, 2006 I am wondering what will stop it pivotting as I am (guessing may be wrong ?) just having the bottom bolt in place may not be enough,?Like the mod on the dizzy BTW can you post up pics / write up etc so I can copy it benefit from the experience ? I didnt have a correct imperial bolt to put one into the top, so i tapped a new M6 thread into the small flat that is half way between the 2 big ones. Dizzy (or absence of ) pic below. I need to find a sutable cap to stick on. I think its ok as it is as the bottom bush is 30/40mm long, but if i did this again i would prob cut a little higher, then the second bush would remain on the shaft also. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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