auf_wiedersehen_pet Posted September 7, 2011 Share Posted September 7, 2011 Hi All, I've just picked up my Discovery from the garage having had a new starter. As soon as I started to drive it something didn't feel right. At car park speeds (1,000 rpm) it felt "stuttery" as if the revs were on/off/on erratically. On the road, it pulls and runs fine apart from the 1,000rpm mark (typically 20+ mph, whiff of throttle to keep it moving in traffic) when it feels like a misfire/stutter/hunt. Any ideas? I have a good relationship with the garage so there are no worries about going back to them - I just can't see how a new starter could affect anything. Is there anything which could have been knocked or disconnected? Regards Rob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
barmiebrumie Posted September 8, 2011 Share Posted September 8, 2011 mine did similar when I bought it, it was all down to the fuel system, try the filter first then the sedimenter or even fuel lines could have been disturbed & sucking in air ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChrisB Posted September 8, 2011 Share Posted September 8, 2011 Is it an EDC model? If it is, sounds like throttle position sensor problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
auf_wiedersehen_pet Posted September 14, 2011 Author Share Posted September 14, 2011 Ouch! I've just seen the price of the throttle position sensor!! £600 plus!! I hope to God it's not one of those as it's getting worse. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
auf_wiedersehen_pet Posted September 30, 2011 Author Share Posted September 30, 2011 The gas axe beckons..... Serviced, fuel and filter changed, sedimeter, intercooler hoses changed. Still as bad. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
auf_wiedersehen_pet Posted December 9, 2011 Author Share Posted December 9, 2011 After a lot of thought, I bought a brand new genuine LR throttle potentiometer from Australia - £800 as opposed to £1000 in the UK. It's been fine for six weeks then suddenly, the same symptoms again. Can the new part be faulty? Can I afford to fix it again - er, no! What on earth can I do? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fozsug Posted December 9, 2011 Share Posted December 9, 2011 Send it back under warranty, get youre money back and look into the fuel system for air leaks, and change to non EDC system. I have a mechanical pump and injectors if you decided to go this route. Good write up http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f38/disco-edc-mechanical-fuel-injection-pump-121731.html 'Disco EDC to mechanical fuel injection pump Here is my report to the recent changes I've made to my 97' 300tdi auto with EDC fuel injection pump to the standard 300tdi with mechanical fuel pump. Items required: - 300tdi fuel injection pump (200tdi's dont work), with or without EGR potentiometer - standard 300tdi fuel injectors x 4 - fuel injection pipes from pump to injectors - kick down cable bracket from standard 300tdi auto - length of wire with a space connector at one end Procedures: - remove EDC fuel injection pipes - remove EDC fuel injectors - remove EDC electronic fuel injection pump (A) - unplug ECU (B) - attach standard mechanical fuel injection pump © - attach standard fuel injectors - attach standard fuel injection pipes - bleed fuel from system (D) - attach throttle cable & kick down cable - done and start commissioning with engine running (A) : - remove fan - remove fan cowl - remove crank pulley - remove timing cover - set crank & cam to TDC - loose 8mm allen bolt totiming belt tensioner - removetiming belt - remove sprocket on injection pump - unplug electrical connectors, 2 pieces - remove 3 x 13mm nut at front of pump attaching to timing case - remove 2 x bolts securing injection pump to engine block, 10mm bolt, 13mm nut - lift out injection pump (B) : - remove plastic securing plug on driver's side kick panel - lift out kick panel - ECY is just above all the relays behind kick panel - use a short spade screw driver, prise out/loosen ECU socket securing pin, then pull down the securing pin with finger, you can then remove the 55 pin plug to ECU © : - attach mechanical fuel injection pump to timing case - attach 3 x 13mm nut securing to timing case - attach 2 nuts and bolts securing to engine block, 13mm nut, 10mm bolt - loosely attach timing belt sprocket onto injection pump - use a 22mm socket, turn the injection pump sprocket until a 9mm drill bit can be slotted into the TDC locking hole on injection pump - attachtiming belt. To tighten timing belt, first use an breaker bar with a 6 inch long 1/2 inch size extension. There's a slot on timing belt tensional plate where the extension can be slotted in and give leverage for tightening tensioner. After timing belt tensioner is tighten, tighten the 3 10mm nut on injection pump sprocket. - check thattiming belt is spot on TDC. To check on that, woodruff key on crank shaft should be vertically straight pointing to top. There should be a mark on cam sprocket, that should be pointing at 7 o'clock. Use mirror to check the cam sprocket marking is inline to an 'arrow' on timing case. Lastly, make sure the 9mm drill bit is still slotted into the injection pump locking hole - attach timing cover - remove 3 x 10mm bolt ontiming cover for the injection pump inspection cover, then remove the cover for injection pump adjustment & commissioning (E) - attach crank pulley - attach fan belt - attach fen and cowl (D) : - loosen 10mm bolt on top of fuel filter housing - toggle the lever on fuel lift pump. If no pressure is felt, turn the crank shaft till pressure is felt - once fuel starts flowing out from the bleed screw without air bubbles, tighten bleed screw (E) Commissioning & adjustment on injection pump : - with the timing belt on, loosen the 3 x 10mm bolt on injection pump sprocket. Then use 22mm socket, turn the center plate on the sprocket to the left, put a mark on the center plate and sprocket, then turn the center plate to the right and mark on sprocket. Then turn the center plate back to the middle. Tighten the 3 x 10mm bolt. - start the engine, listen to the engine running. If it runs a little rough, repeat the above procedures, and move the center plate on injection pump sprocket either left (advance) or right (retard) to get the engine running smoothly. Do each adjustment at 1mm each time. - adjustthrottle cable tightness as well as kick down cable tightness. Throttle cable should have about 1mm free play when you move it left to right. Kick down cable should be all the way in the cable sleeve before throttle is depressed. Adjust idling screw. Standard idling for auto is about 750 + 30 rpm - once you are satisfied with the engine running, attach the injection pump inspection cover - use the length of wire with spade connector at end, find a suitable 12v source (either through a switch, or through ignition, so that engine will shut off once ignition is turned off) and connects it to the fuel stop solenoid' Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eddyoz Posted December 10, 2011 Share Posted December 10, 2011 Seems strange that problem only occured after the new starter motor was fitted.I would make sure all earths are sound or any other poor connections.Similar to this thread in aulro http://www.aulro.com/afvb/discovery-1/140352-working-through-my-list.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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