sid65 Posted February 20, 2012 Share Posted February 20, 2012 Hi all still rebuilding my 90 but need advice its coming time when i need to fit me lights which should if fit original or NAS. do carling switches exchange directly or do you need to buy extra bits and whats the best sound proofing thinking about recovering my seats with outlast fabric any views sorry for all the questions cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iomlt Posted February 20, 2012 Share Posted February 20, 2012 from my view. orignal lights carling swiches are expensive and you ideally need to re wire. so why not keep the orignals? use carling for extra lighting etc that accoustic matting from exmoor is excelent but expensive.. noise killer good but not a tidy finish in comparison IMO out last matieral.. i have it... no real difference to be honest, feel more solid on the seat... i think i wouldnt bother again. I always try to keep things standard and factory. makes life so much easier if and when they fail to replace Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
UdderlyOffroad Posted February 20, 2012 Share Posted February 20, 2012 carling swiches are expensive and you ideally need to re wire. so why not keep the originals? use carling for extra lighting etc …. I always try to keep things standard and factory. makes life so much easier if and when they fail to replace That sentiment is certainly true, and ordinarily I agree with it wholeheartedly, however I would add the following caveat: I always try to keep things standard and factory, except when they are known weak spots, in which case I would upgrade to something better (having done some careful research on it first). It so happens that both std lights and the std hazard switch IMHO fall firmly into the ‘known weak spot’ category. The lights especially crack, discolour, fill with water etc far too easily for my liking. Hence I’m planning upgrading them to the NAS ones, preferably proper, E Marked Perei LED jobs although the budget may not stretch to that. The hazard switch is another one. It’s known to have internals made of cheese, when I got my truck it was borked, and the (genuine Lucas) replacement didn’t feel as it if it had a match better action. Therefore, I’ll replace it with the Carling hazard switch in my mud dash. Whilst it might not be standard, you can keep the wires going to it the same colour (just extend them from the original connector. Pinouts for the switch are on here and on the Mudstuff site so it shouldn’t cause issues). Just my £0.02 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
muddy Posted February 20, 2012 Share Posted February 20, 2012 I like to fit NAS spec lights on the rear, IMHO they look better, can be seen alot better and if your trailer lights ahem 'drop off ' they make up for it better than the standard candles, i dont use them on the front tho although thats my personal preferance. There is a seat fabric called demin twill i think, this is quite nice to look at and sit on but doesnt reach furniss temps in summer, i would fit these i think if i was looking. If you havnt got any soundproofing at all the standard stuff isnt bad, a td5 is quieter than my 300 as the seatbox is covered, and my 300 is quiter than my dadss 200 as that has thin mats and a bare bulkhead tunnel. I have seen the wright off road set that looks like its good quality but a bitch to fit and not exactly cheap... My 2p Will. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
phil c Posted February 20, 2012 Share Posted February 20, 2012 i wouldnt fit neither , i have fitted hella 90mm range to mine on the front and hella 55mm led rings. the rear lights have the indicator lamp similar size to the lr one with a ring of led lamps round for the brake lights and or side lights, dual stage leds with have to find a pic of mine for you when im back on thurs it looks brilliant http://www.google.co.uk/search?q=hella%2055mm%20led%20rings&oe=utf-8&rls=org.mozilla:en-GB:official&client=firefox-a&um=1&ie=UTF-8&hl=en&tbm=isch&source=og&sa=N&tab=wi&ei=dYVCT7SuIuOm0AWozrSKDA&biw=1024&bih=638&sei=koVCT4GeOqSs0QWvx9WPDw Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retroanaconda Posted February 20, 2012 Share Posted February 20, 2012 Personally I think NAS lamps look awful, much prefer the normal size ones myself. Of course that is a personal preference, the NAS ones are brighter apparently... I just think they're too big for the body shape! Soundproofing wise, I have: FatMat RattleTrap layer across entire bulkhead and floorpan LR footwell insulation LR footwell mats (with foam backing) LR tunnel insulation LR tunnel carpet LR Seatbox front edge carpet Carpeted rear wheelboxes Hardboard + carpet rear upper side panel insulation Standard full length headlining On the cards is to line the roof under the headlining with camping mats, cover the entire seatbox with RattleTrap and carpet over the top, and some kind of engine noise blanket or under-bonnet pad. I can sit at 60 on the motorway and talk easily enough, but I still yearn for less noise. 200Tdis are rattly old things so there's a lot of noise to block! The aim is to minimise bare metal panels on the interior (to limit reverberated noise) and put as many layers between the noise source (ie. engine) and me as possible. Re. the seats, the Denim Twill is a vinyl covering so will get hot in the summer! Outlast Canvas is very good, although I would prefer a set of XS Half-Leather seats... For a working vehicle then any hard-wearing fabric/vinyl plus proper fitted seat covers is probably the best solution. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
muddy Posted February 20, 2012 Share Posted February 20, 2012 Thanks for clarifying re: denim twill james, the dog might well thank you for that Will. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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