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Spotting different Diff types


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Curiosity got the better of me and I now need to know

I have googled and forum searched and google forum searched (2 pin diff lr4x4, 4pin diff lr4x4 in google) and tried ashcrofts, kam etc for somewhere that gives nice pictures that show the difference between 2pin and 4 pin diffs from the outside (i.e., when its got the casing on but out of the axle).

Can someone in the know point me to a site that illustrates the differences or explain how to tell the difference, and can you? Also what combinations do they come in etc? Has anyone done a definitive guide to diffs with nice pics? A rundown of each - wiki like would be awesome.

Cheers,

James

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Starter for 10 .........

Short Nose casing has bigger ring for bolting to different axle case and overall shorter

Long Nose their is both Metric and Imperial casings and a few odd balls.

VERY Early 80 have 4.88:1 and extar long nose diffs

Series have mainly Imperial casings

Early RR too, and some early RR have metric casing but with filler plug (rare)

Imperial casings and Metric use different carrier bearings and seals

Some imperial casing have removaable Nose cone (alloy) and is shimmed (nightmare)

Short Nose diffs come in 2 Pin (standard) and only 4.6 RR and 110 SN Diffs both rear have a 4 pin

You can't fit a short nose 4 pin to a LN casing without considerable work (see video)

4 Pin Long nose are out there, but are at best 30 years old so not in 1st flush of use, were fitted to V8 90s and are only 24 spline

The above is your 2nd starter for 10 - I will set an exam for you later

:lol:

Nige

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  • 2 years later...

Sorry for necroposting, guys. I have an issue with a Tdci 90's rear diff (2pin short). The pin is sliding off centre and catching the pinion. I can move the pin in with my finger through the oil filler hole, and can see a small spot of peening on one edge of the "high" end where the knocking has occurred. I can't see any other damage. How is the pin supposed to be retained in place, does this sound cheaply repairable, and will the 4-pin from the P38 be a direct swap or does it need alteration to fit (I'm content to swap the centres, retaining the c&p from the 90 if unharmed and a simple swap, but don't want to do the machining involved in fitting to the long nose).

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