Burnsinbarnsley Posted June 18, 2012 Share Posted June 18, 2012 Hi, I Am wondering what everyone else who has a series with the spring-over-axle conversion done, does with the drag link assembly?? I bought my first lr and it has this done with rrc axles. The ball joint on the pitman arm is under too greater angle to work properly! Help and experience thankfully received!! Paul Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gremlin Posted June 18, 2012 Share Posted June 18, 2012 What you need is a cross over steering linkage, look at the US scene for more info or click below. Cross over steering I also belive that you will not be able to do it with coiler axles, unless you get very creative. G Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ToyRoverlander Posted June 18, 2012 Share Posted June 18, 2012 I used to run a Z-shaped draglink. Without PAS I wasn't worried at all about bending it. But with the current rebuild I've added PAS and I didn't want to run that Z-link anymore as I didn't like the idea of bending it and I didn't like the bumpsteer. I wanted it to handle right! So I added high-steer to my 80Series landcruiser axles. So both the draglink and trackrod are in front of the axle, above the leafsprings. That's what I've done... No aaftermarket options for high-steer on a rover axle though... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Burnsinbarnsley Posted June 19, 2012 Author Share Posted June 19, 2012 Wow thanks loads!!! What do you mean by bump-steer?? I'm going to do an s-shaped link but put gussets in to stop any flex! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gremlin Posted June 19, 2012 Share Posted June 19, 2012 Post up pics when you do it....... Seriously mate......try to avoid that type of linkage (no offence to toyrover here) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted June 19, 2012 Share Posted June 19, 2012 A few pointers on how not to do it: The Scary Steering Site Hopefully with a bit of thinking/googling about engineering / stresses and strains you can work out why an S shaped link is so much weaker than a straight bar. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Burnsinbarnsley Posted June 19, 2012 Author Share Posted June 19, 2012 Lol!! I understand the stress factors of steel and the need for gussets in!! Still can't work out how to do photos!!! After a trip to my local Landy scrappers I've realised my drag link has already been defaced!! It's been bent to miss the leaf! No surprise really!! Picked up 2 other bars and hey presto!! My mate has made me one!! Now for the test!! Back soon, thanks guys!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ToyRoverlander Posted June 19, 2012 Share Posted June 19, 2012 Gussets are nice and all but by the time they're big enough it becomes a straight bar basically and thus you lose all the 'benefits' of the z shape. If you're going to make a z-link, ditch that wimpy rover drag link and get something beefy! I used the 80series draglink which is an inch in diameter with a 1/4" wall thickness. Way beefier than that rover stuff. The steering rods I have now are a full 1.5" diameter and 1/4" wall.. Serious stuff... Have a google for bumpsteer, lots of info to be found.. No offence taken Gremlin, I too didn't like the Z-link. I only did it as a temporary thing before I had enough money for the high-steer kit and PAS. I ran it for about 2years without issues. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ejparrott Posted June 20, 2012 Share Posted June 20, 2012 Definately don't use the rover one...think i said that somewhere already... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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