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Timing woes!


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As we all know, the secret to comedy is……….timing! However, the secret to timing isn’t comedy!! At least, I’ve tried laughing it off, but it’s not working and I’m starting to get a little hacked off with it! After the 4th day and about the 10th attempt, the starter motor gave up the ghost and dispensed a nasty smelling smoke into the engine bay, :unsure: So I stopped there and left before I hurt myself throwing things at it!!

However, even after following the Land Rover Workshop Manual’s procedure, I still can’t get the bl##dy thing to run, if it starts at all, without sounding like a bag of nails and stalling when the fans kick in! :angry:

Can anyone tell me the secret to timing a 3.5 Efi? :huh: ? Even better, would someone be interested in coming over and having a little tinker while I make tea and provide biscuits and moral support??!! Or, if you would prefer beer and pork scratchings… ;) !!

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As we all know, the secret to comedy is……….timing! However, the secret to timing isn’t comedy!! At least, I’ve tried laughing it off, but it’s not working and I’m starting to get a little hacked off with it! After the 4th day and about the 10th attempt, the starter motor gave up the ghost and dispensed a nasty smelling smoke into the engine bay, :unsure: So I stopped there and left before I hurt myself throwing things at it!!

However, even after following the Land Rover Workshop Manual’s procedure, I still can’t get the bl##dy thing to run, if it starts at all, without sounding like a bag of nails and stalling when the fans kick in! :angry:

Can anyone tell me the secret to timing a 3.5 Efi? :huh: ? Even better, would someone be interested in coming over and having a little tinker while I make tea and provide biscuits and moral support??!! Or, if you would prefer beer and pork scratchings… ;) !!

ok start from the beginning

do you have a good spark at every plug? if not then you'll have fun doing the timing- make sure you have checked this properly and completely.

are you 100% certain the leads are on correctly? IME books quite often show a picture of the dizzy cap numbers one way up, and then flip the dizzy over (as if you are looking from the back of engnine) to show lead routing. Don't forget that you will get a spark even if your leads are on the wrong position on the cap.

how have you measured TDBC and have you got it on the right stroke- ie are you sure you aren't 180degrees out with your timing?

are you sure it is a timing issue? is there anything to suggest a fuelling problem?

why have you suddenly decided to do the timing now? what changes have you made?

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Cheers for taking the time Pugwash!

Timing needs to be done because I had to change the front crankshaft oil seal a little while ago. No worries with that, it was running fine beforehand and the only thing that was done with the ignition was remove the distributor from the timing chest. The fuel system, leads, dizzy cap and rotor arm stayed together and attached to the vehicle to avoid the problem of getting leads in the wrong place!

Spark is good at all plugs.

TDC has been taken from the timing marks on the main pulley-ring (if that makes sense!) The solid ring attached to the back of the main pulley. Timing marks line up with the marker attached to the timing chest which wasn't removed - the marker than is!

We were 180 degrees out, but aren't now! A large puff of black smoke up the inlet gave that away the first time we set it up, so that was changed.

Fuelling hasn't been touched and it does start occasionally, just runs like a bag of nails, so I don't think it's a fuelling problem.

When it does start, the advance/retard isn't enough to get it to run smoothly. By moving the distributor round one tooth, it's too far out to start!

Aaaaaarrrrrrggggghhhhh!!

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We were 180 degrees out, but aren't now! A large puff of black smoke up the inlet gave that away the first time we set it up, so that was changed.

You've not lunched the air flow meter with your backfire have you? It works rather like a one way valve...

Chris

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Food.........always food!!!!!!!

I don't think so, although I wouldn't know how to check it!! It has been running (in the loosest possible way) since the backfire, so I think it can be ruled out! Correct me if I am wrong though!!

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Correct me if I am wrong though!!

OK.

The flap breaks allowing un-metered air into the engine. The electrics in the meter tell the rest of the EFI that some air is flowing but that figure may bear no relation to what is really happening. There is enough air to burn the fuel being allowed in but not to run the engine properly - especially when you hit the throttle or apply a load to the engine.

If there are no other problems then you should be able to set the timing well enough to make the engine run and drive, however badly, by hand/eye. I say there is something else wrong there.

I have a diesel however so what I know about EFI is a bit limited. There are pleanty of people here who must have a better idea than me!

Good luck.

Chris

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Ok

1st

1 There are differerent setting timing wise for differing dizzys and yes all 3.5 EFIs, so which dizzy have you (check the number) and what are you trying to set it to ?

2 The way to set is the same for all tho, remove the dizzy cap, mark with a marker pen the position of No 1 Plug on the dizzt base, you are looking to have the rotor arm on it at TDC and if you move the dizzy back and forth the rotir arm should go each side of the line, if not then you have re installed the dizzy with the rotor a tooth out etc

3 Not unknown for pulleys not to be at TDC so set to TDC and then check with say a pencil down the plug hole, rotate the pulley a tad each way pencil should go up and down, when it is between up and down its TDC check the marks.

4 If you are still unsure then rotate the dizzt fully one way, crnak the enginem, and turn dizzy slowly till it starts up etc, then check timing with a proper gun etc, I reckon tho your prob is around point 2.

Nige

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Cheers Chris! Will have a look and see if there is anything obvious wrong with it.

However limited your knowledge of EFi systems is, it's most probably more than mine so I am glad of the advice!!

I only know this because Nick's (Roguevogue's) old RR EFI ran fine on gas but rather poorly on petrol. Turned out that the AFM was U/S. The car would run on petrol but only just. The LPG had a habit of backfiring which may have led to the demise of the AFM at the hands of the previous owner.

Chris

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Nige - Thanks for that!

I have tried taking out the distributor and rotating one tooth round both ways, but to no avail! It is either too far advanced of way short of the mark!

I think the problem lies either around number 3 or in the point that Chris has made!

Further investigation, methinks!!

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