snailracer Posted March 4, 2013 Share Posted March 4, 2013 For some reason this evening my RH indicators have stopped working. All I get is the warning light on the dash constantly on. LH indicators work fine. I'm thinking it might just be a connection come loose but wondered if anyone has had similar and knows what the problem is before I spend hours taking apart and chasing round the loom Cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted March 4, 2013 Share Posted March 4, 2013 I think there is a break between the switch and the lights - the power comes through the flasher unit into the switch, and is then diverted left or right. If the wiring to the lights fails or is unplugged, the switch will earth through the dash waning bulb but will not draw enough amps to heat the flasher unit's strip, so it won't flash. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
snailracer Posted March 5, 2013 Author Share Posted March 5, 2013 Cheers for the reply. Checked it all just now and cannot find any breaks (the loom is only a year old so I would have been upset). With the RH indicators on I get the warning light lit up and get about 8.5V at all points I can test along the wiring, including at the bulbs. LH indicators work. So is it the flasher unit just not liking the RH indicators for some reason? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted March 6, 2013 Share Posted March 6, 2013 No. It must be something specific to that side, from the switch to the lights. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon White Posted March 6, 2013 Share Posted March 6, 2013 Bypass the flasher unit by shorting the two wires connected to it together and your indicators should then work when you move the lever, but will be on all the time and not flash. You can then check connections voltages etc. You should have 12v one side of the bulb and ground the other. Find the problems in the wiring from there and correct. Only when you have the indicators working properly when switched to either side (but on all the time not flashing) then re-connect the flasher unit. Jon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
snailracer Posted March 6, 2013 Author Share Posted March 6, 2013 Cheers I will try that tomorrow. Spent another hour this evening going round all the wires to see if there was anything obvious. Starting to get a bit worried that I'm going to have to start stripping the tape off the loom to sort this out, or worse have to replace the moulded plastic plugs. Not overly happy at present as the loom is an Autosparks one i bought last year. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted March 7, 2013 Share Posted March 7, 2013 Try disconnecting the switch from the loom and bridging the rh circuit to the switch's lh output to see if it's a switch fault - I suspect you have bad contacts in the switch, but if the fault is duplicated, then it's the loom. You don't have a lamp unit connected the wrong way around, do you, with the positive wire from the loom connected to the negative wire in the lamp? It could be that a lamp unit has been built with the wires reversed, so the colour coding is misleading, causing the whole rhs indicator system to short. Try disconnecting one lamp from the loom and the the other. With only one lap in the system, the other should flash at a high rate but should still work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
snailracer Posted March 7, 2013 Author Share Posted March 7, 2013 Funnily enough I got in this morning and the rear rh has stopped working but the front is flashing extra rapid. Will try the many suggestions above tonight anyaway Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted March 7, 2013 Share Posted March 7, 2013 In that case, check the failed lamp unit over thoroughly, looking for shorts. Remember that while they have a coloured positive and black earth wire, they also earth through their mounting screws/bolts directly to the body panel, so if the coloured wire has been connected to the main body of the lamp instead of the floating contact on the plastic disc inside, then it'll be shorting the whole system. It could even be a faulty bulb that is shorting internally. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
snailracer Posted March 7, 2013 Author Share Posted March 7, 2013 It turned out to be a thin layer of corrosion on the earth contact. It looked clean but with a continuity tester on it it clearly wasn't. A quick clean and it all seems to be working fine. How easy is it to swap these crappy lights for something better? Defender sealed units? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted March 7, 2013 Share Posted March 7, 2013 I have Defender lights on mine. The early ones are a straight swap. The current units have fixed lense and base sections with a central fitting that comes out the back, a bit like a Eurobox - they'd fit, but you'd have to enlarge the central hole in the bodywork. The new type also use just two screws for mounting, which pass through the lenses and main body, while the older type use three screws to mount he main body and another two to secure the lens, just like SIII lamps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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