o_teunico Posted March 30, 2013 Author Share Posted March 30, 2013 XLink in action Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
o_teunico Posted March 30, 2013 Author Share Posted March 30, 2013 This pic has been taken from pirate4x4(France) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bill van snorkle Posted March 30, 2013 Share Posted March 30, 2013 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bill van snorkle Posted March 30, 2013 Share Posted March 30, 2013 This pic has been taken from pirate4x4(France) Notice in both photos how the Xlink (cross link) has swung downwards on the right hand side, thus reducing ground clearance and presenting a snag point to the terrain? Swap sides and under axle tube ground clearance looks like it would be seriously compromised. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
o_teunico Posted March 31, 2013 Author Share Posted March 31, 2013 Yes, all those hardware hanging on the axle will be the only cons. Another cross link (homemade, see page 5). This time in a Rangie with Patrol axles. Again from Fench Pirate 4x4. http://pirate4x4.fr/showthread.php/2947-Un-Range-sauce-Bourbonnaise Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dirtydiesel Posted March 31, 2013 Share Posted March 31, 2013 Just imagine a Disco MkI with front XLink on Y61 axle, rear XLink with HDJ80 rear axle with Discovery Series II trailing arms+Watts linkage. Change locking pins of both XLinks with dog clutches and you will have a refined road biased car that could be converted into a twisting machine by operating just two small levers. Add two sway bars from x-eng with more dog clutches in place of free wheeling hubs and it will be even better. I'm imagining...........pointlessness! So you are going to the trouble of fitting different axles using an inflexible suspension setup, adding Xlinks to get the flex back then adding anti roll bars to control the flex??? Why not fit the axles using a flexible link setup and just have an X-eng anti roll bar at one end. A bit of real life experience would give you a better handle on what suits your driving style, then adapt and build according to your Fab skills and the depth of your pockets. Stick some push rods, rockers and a cambelt on that disco your brother gave you and get it dirty and beaten up! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
o_teunico Posted April 1, 2013 Author Share Posted April 1, 2013 A bit of real life experience would give you a better handle on what suits your driving style, then adapt and build according to your Fab skills and the depth of your pockets Vapour builds only for the moment... I remember that my bros Disco had good articulation with stock coils/dampers, but rolled excesively on road. I drove two other Discos (both 300Tdi) from friends: stiffer coils on both, one with standard antiroll bars and the other without them. Both drove well with little body roll but lost some articulation. My idea will be a "selectable" articulation setup. Standard radious arms frot + watts rear + twin anti roll bars for road, Standard radious arms frot + watts rear without bars for trails and un-pinned Xlinks front and rear for extreme articulation. As you said, real life experience will show if just a simpler flexible setup with Si´s bar will fullfill all my needs. As I said in some other posts, I want the car to be road legal, and that will be easier maintaining the car as near to stock as possible. Just an example: a Jeep YJ from a friend: Patrol axles, custom suspension and 4.0 engine instead of the 2.5. Project completed in february 2012 and he is still waiting for the paperwork for having it road legal Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Abdur Posted December 20, 2017 Share Posted December 20, 2017 On 3/27/2013 at 8:20 PM, il-bob said: Yep, that's my beastie No vibrations, maybe because of it's 105" wheelbase and the wide yoke prop shaft. This weekend we competed in Noto, SIcily. Terrain there is mainly rock and soil. We had no problems at all with the axles and we're running 36" Fedimas with plenty of abuse. Most vehicles there are set up with Y60 or Y61 axles. Most people I spoke to that run these type of axles recon these are the best budget axles that can withstand punishment. RCV also make upgraded shafts and CVs and they are guaranteed at 42" tyres. Our 38s should be on this weekend and will be competing again on the 14th of April. Will keep you updated. Some photios of the axles below.. Rear: Front: bob So to fit Y60/61 rear axle to disco 2 what mods are required? Can you share more details on this please and if you have any pics that would be great. I am going to use LS400 4.0 V8 with lexus gear in Surf gear housing and transfer case which means I need centered dif. Y60 is probably the best option for that but want to understand how much work is required and how complicated is it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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