threaded stud replacement

[TUNA]

i'm new to the landy world. just wondering if there is anything special i should know about replacing the stud. could'nt find anything in the haynes or brooklands manual. i still need to get the green bible. thanks !!

[Happyoldgit]

Welcome to the forum, I'm moving this into the Series section where I'm sure you will get a better response. Can you be a bit more specific about what stud you mean?

Nice SWB

[TUNA]

sorry about that. guess i added a couple too many pics

[TUNA]

sorry, the wheel stud. thanks

[David Sparkes]

'The wheel stud'.

Series Land Rovers have been around for so long, and attract people who see nothing wrong in playing around, changing parts to ones from different years 'because it was available' or 'because it was cheaper'. Due to this it is a mistake to take too much for granted, and say 'because it's this model', and 'because it was built in 1969', this is what you will find .... .

There are two different diameters of wheel stud, 9/16" and 16mm. You need to know which yours are, because the wheel nuts are noticeably different sizes.

9/16" studs come in two flavours, ones that thread into the hub, and ones that have a serrated section and are pulled into the hub, where the serrations form a tight interference fit which stops them turning. These serrated type also have a flange on the inner end so it's impossible to pull them through the hub. You cannot just unscrew a threaded type and replace it with a serrated type, the thread has to be drilled out of the hub first.

I don't know a great deal about 16mm studs, as they are too big for my vehicles. I believe they also have serrated ends, and they will come in different lengths, because military wheels, in particular, are made from thicker steel. I assume you appreciate that some things carried on unchanged from the Series era to the 90, then the Defender. 16mm stud diameter being one of those things.

The commonest cause of 'losing' a stud is because it was a 9/16 threaded type and became unscrewed from the hub.

We shouldn't blame incompetent and heavy handed mechanics, wedded to air wrenches that overtighten wheel nuts as a matter of course, but it can be very tempting to do so.

Whatever the reason, one of your studs is missing, so you need to establish what size you want the replacement to match, and we can go from there.

Have you done the basic check, and taken the wheel off so you can have a close look at the hub and see if there are more clues than just a missing stud? Perhaps the stud has sheared, and part of it is left in the hub. Best to check before deciding what to buy.

HTH.

PS,

I noticed the steering wheel appears to be on the wrong side. If you update your profile with your general location it opens up the possibility of making contact with a local enthusiast, or a source of competent local mechanics.

[TUNA]

DAVID- APPRECIATE YOUR QUICK RESPONSE! I PLAN ON UPDATING MY PROFILE ASAP. ONE HALF OF THE YEAR I'M ON MY FARM IN COSTA RICA AND THE OTHER HALF I'M IN MAINE RUNNING MY PAINT AND RESTORATION BUSINESS. BOTH AREAS FULL OF LANDY'S. MY RIG WAS IMPORTED TO TEXAS AND THEN IMPORTED TO COSTA RICA. ORIGINAL MILES 66,000 WHEN I BOUGHT IT. ONLY USED IN TEXAS FOR BIRD HUNTING ON A RANCH. A GREAT FIND. I'M PLANNING ON REMOVING THE WHEEL AND CHECKING IT OUT TODAY. WILL POST LATER. THANKS AGAIN.