Jocklandjohn Posted April 27, 2013 Share Posted April 27, 2013 Replacing my 25 year old 250,000 mile rear propshft on my 110 HT which had an advisory in the MOT because its a bit rusted. Thought it worth doing the flange and seal at the same time as I'm sure they're 250,000 miles as well. I've read a few posts about this, noted the presence of the 'crush washer' and the need to replace all the bits exactly as they were to avoid overtightening the bearing, and to achieve this most say to: "mark pinion shaft and nut, count turns on nut, then remove and realign marks when refitting" and one has said to do the same (mark) on the flange. I'm replacing the flange so does that create any problems? Or am I ok to just mark shaft and nut, replace flange and realign shaft/nut marks? I'm presuming the flange is a (tight) push fit? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted April 29, 2013 Share Posted April 29, 2013 The flange may have a small variation in thickness which could upset the position of the nut on the pinion threads, but make alignment marks before you undo the nut anyway, and then measure the depths of the flanges as best you can for comparison. I doubt there will be much difference. The collapsible tube is sodding tough and merely holds the inner races of the bearings apart against the pressure of the nut, with the nut position setting the bearing preload. If you replace the flange (and seal if required), then doing the nut up afterwards with a standard ratchet will not apply anywhere near enough torque to further crush the spacer - even with a breaker bar it takes a hell of an effort (just did one the other day). Just do the nut up as tight as you can with the 1/2" ratchet and it'll be fine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vedrover Posted April 30, 2013 Share Posted April 30, 2013 I have 300000 km salisbury. now waiting for newtype one from 2007 def. 2 years ago i've changed bearings and all that stuff. less than in a year backlash appeared again. and all who know this problem told me to change salisbury, couse they are not so reliable Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cackshifter Posted April 30, 2013 Share Posted April 30, 2013 Can anyone shed light on what happens if you change to the later type of seal? Or should you replace like with like? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jocklandjohn Posted May 1, 2013 Author Share Posted May 1, 2013 Thanks folks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted May 3, 2013 Share Posted May 3, 2013 Shouldn't be any problems with either seal type as the pinion flages are the same size on all years. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted May 3, 2013 Share Posted May 3, 2013 I have 300000 km salisbury. now waiting for newtype one from 2007 def.2 years ago i've changed bearings and all that stuff. less than in a year backlash appeared again. and all who know this problem told me to change salisbury, couse they are not so reliable 2007 Defenders do't have Salisbury diffs, and nor do most TD5s - they have a 4-pin short pinion Rover diff, as used in the P38 RRs. As for backlash in a 300,000 km unit, replacing the bearings won't refurbish worn gears. That doesn't indicate a poor design, though - most cars are on the scrap heap with half that distance, so a little backlash is easily forgiveable. And yes, Salisbury units are the toughest standard units fitted on Land Rovers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.