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cackshifter

Long Term Forum Financial Supporter
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Everything posted by cackshifter

  1. What @western says, but also beware of getting incorrect ones, eg LHD lamps for UK. Some around where it's not obvious which they are selling.
  2. Good advice^^^^. I had a clutch fail exactly as you describe, hopefully that's 'all' it is.
  3. Yokohama A/T G015? (After a quick search, no idea how good they are) Would it be possible to have a slightly different size maybe to get more choice?
  4. Don't beat yourself up for using a lot of assembly lube, that may have minimised damage. But do take your time. I'd advise filling the oil filter as much as reasonably possible before fitting, and initially spin it over for a few seconds with the stop solenoid disconnected. You should see oil pressure build quite quickly. Then you know oil has got round before combustion happens. Though don't run the starter for long periods without a rest in between.
  5. SUs normally just have a supply and maybe an overflow
  6. Curious indeed. Is there any danger of some pictures?
  7. One simple thing to try is to get it warm, ie in a state where it's not keen on starting, and try starting with a wide open throttle (release if it fires). If it starts readily, that points to over-richness, as you are allowing lots of air in to clear excess fuel and counterract too much petrol. If not it points to vapour lock, not enough fuel getting through, in which case it's probably not down to the actual carburettors.
  8. If this on SUs, I'd check the float valves were Ok and floats adjusted correctly.
  9. YRM do galved braces. You'll be very lucky if that is the only spot.
  10. Safari used to do stainless steel, I think 110 litre ones. Probably cost you a kidney....
  11. Handy to have a scotchbrite pad handy in case you get a patch that is reluctant
  12. Just as a note, I think the Glencoyne mounts don't fit 300tdis. @Landy7, would be interested if you can remember exactly which springs & shocks it was and is it for 90 or 110?
  13. I'd check there's definitely an oil feed to the main that feeds the no.2 big end, it could be the oil is not getting to there, maybe that main bearing is much less stressed so would not pick up as soon as its big end buddy has. But it does sound like you are on the way to getting it sorted.👍
  14. Might be an idea to take one of the other conrods to the engineers as a reference too. I'm not sure plastigauge would be a complete answer; it proves the fit when you put it in, but then you have to refit the bearing cap when you have removed it. It would show up ovality though. I can't believe the crank was that oval originally, it had run like that before and the crank surfaces were all fine, and are now still on the others. Did you turn the engine over as you fitted the big ends? It's interesting you are down to the copper near the tab, I think maybe the shell wasn't right in place. But the measurement will tell all I'm sure.
  15. I have just seen these pages in my Range Rover WSM. It doesn't look like a ball is present nor is it mentioned in the assembly instructions. I guess Turners would have a definitive view.
  16. No, agreed it isn't. I was just trying to draw attention to the quite limited amount of electricity generation capacity we currently have, the reliance on power imports, the seemingly rushed moves to increase reliance on electricity as an energy source for both road vehicles and domestic heating, and the absence of plans for further generation capacity compared to the fuel shortage which is 'just' a distribution problem, and therefore not as serious a problem, though undoubtedly badly affecting many people, both in getting the fuel, and finding the means to pay for it. The price reflects that. But I probably shouldn't have made it sound quite so polarised. But it is anyway OT. I apologise.
  17. I think irrespective of what is wrong, you deserve huge sympathy for a disappointing start of a refreshed engine. It can be disheartening, but you seem to have risen above that, so crack on, you will win.
  18. As you were getting no oil to the turbo it must have been a fair old problem. Also fingers crossed the turbo is ok, the oil to that is fairly crucial
  19. Could it be the relief valve sticking? If it didn't get warm the first time you ran it, maybe it relieved pressure and maybe it stuck . The second time, the oil was cold and quite thick, pressure good till it started to warm?
  20. At least there is plenty of fuel, we just can't get at it - I know not a huge help. But gas and elec - the prices of that will wipe the smile off the EV drivers faces. Elec has gone over £4000/MWh wholesale on occasion. So to put it another way £4 a unit. Admittedly that is a peak, but I can imagine some of the factories will be firing up their diesel backup as the price cap doesn't apply to them. The price is because of the gas shortage. Some of the numbers that we are told for the wind contribution and gas contribution to the grid seem at odds with what you can see them actually doing on Gridwatch.
  21. So, another point - you shouldn't engage diff lock when there's grip, ie on normal roads etc, but you should if you are on a slippery surface whether there is wheelspin or not. Why? Because if there is wheelspin the parts of the centre diff rotate very rapidly, and that throws the oil out of it, it gets hot and bothered and can weld up, within a few seconds. It's only designed to handle small variations of speed between front and rear propshafts (OK, and maybe that could be classified as a weak point). If it's slippery you protect the centre diff with the lock engaged and the slipperyness not the diff will allow the wheels to move at the slightly different speeds necessary.
  22. I don't think you have the same problem with the 200, but it is really hard to see the marks properly with the radiator in place on a 300; it is for me anyway, and it was for the numpty at Liveridge's that set mine wrongly. The other thing that might be worth a check is the injection timing, ideally with a dial gauge at the back of the pump, as maybe the pulley isn't set correctly. If you think either is the problem it will have to be checked carefully - some places when changing the belts just mark everything up with what has gone before assuming it is OK, and then that perpetuates any error that was present.
  23. Yes, I would agree with @muddy, it does sound like the cam timing could be off. It's possible to be a tooth out at the crank which is in effect half a tooth at the cam, and is within range of correct FIP setting. It is on 300s anyway. The difference in performance is night and day. To check I think you have to strip it, are you anywhere approaching needing a belt change anyway?
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