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cackshifter last won the day on July 28 2018

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About cackshifter

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  1. I have had 2 Richards chassis. The first one was the subject of a Vic check and the vosa inspector went all over it (in 2010) and declared himself very happy, so the construction method didn't bother him. Both chassis have been great, absolutely no issues.
  2. If you have a leaking hub seal do yourself a favour and check that the axle breather is clear, the banjo bolts tend to attract carp, then the axle pressurises slightly when warm
  3. Does anyone know how having a cooler affects the oil change? Do you have to drain it separately? And what about refilling?
  4. I have a brass one, had it re-cored with a 4 core at B and J radiators at Little Hulton. It has a full width Alisport intercooler in front of it, the 300tdi engine has the Bell/Alisport VNT . Last Friday it was mighty hot and we towed the horse and trailer pretty much as fast as it would all go, but usually near 60, across the M62 and back. I was expecting maybe a hint of overheating on the climb to Saddleworth but was pleased to say there were absolutely no issues. The transmission tunnel you couldn't touch even for a moment, so that is maybe another thing, but it shows how hot it all was. I have noticed some water pumps have smaller impellers than others, if you are swapping the pump I'd make sure it at least matches what you have (I once bought a Quinton Hazell water pump with a smaller impeller than stock which my Mini took exception to if worked hard, so I am conscious of that)
  5. Because tourist hunting is the national sport of the NZ constabulary in their unmarked Commodores
  6. That's very good to hear. It shows the benefit of a dry climate. But do bear in mind that the B post is snuggled up to the aluminium rear of the seatbox and if it gets wet or even worse, wet and salty bad things happen.
  7. Very nice piece of kit. I like the way they have piped the oil drain out beyond the baseplate so it doesn't make a mess when oil changing. I'd change the oil at some point btw; use something decent for compressors (IR do their own)
  8. You might change the spigot bearing in the end of the crank if you have one - they can be a swine to get out
  9. You could always blank off the cooler in the depths of winter. I don't see why the gearbox will mind being cool as long as the oil isn't too viscous to do its job - we don't normally have those extremes.
  10. It does look relatively superficial. But before investing a lot of time and effort in rectification, have a look underneath, just behind the seat box where the bottom hinge of the second row door bolts on to, ie where the other end of the bolts are. If all Ok, lovely. But... that can be a trouble point.
  11. The zinc plated fittings on coppery pipe won't last 5 minutes in an armpit, let alone near the sea. I always use brass on cunifer, and make sure it is well clear of anything galvanised. Brass or stainless bleed screws are a good idea too.
  12. What Neil110 said. It happened to me too, could be just one seized piston, probably front right caliper if it is.
  13. The old minis used to have the expansion tank on the radiator, but on mine for various reasons that used to overflow and lose coolant. The fix was to fit a flat radiator cap (ie no valve) and extend the rad overflow to an 1100 expansion tank, which had the original pressure cap. There was no circulation through it, it was just there to extend the expansion volume . You could always just try the rad as is but keep an eye on levels - if it starts to lose volume, you could add an expansion tank (mine was much lower than the rad, the coolant just syphons, as long as the connecting pipe goes to near the bottom of the tank)
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