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cackshifter

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cackshifter last won the day on September 6 2022

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  1. So one possible solution perhaps simpler than attempting to change the sender and add a wire(I haven't tried this so I cannot say it definitely works) is to use a Spiyda module, see linky
  2. I have used the steel repair panels and they certainly seem to do the job. They are a very neat fit, there are pieces to fit inside above as well and those needed the merest of trimming, otherwise everything fitted like a new jigsaw. I painted it all before fitting and put sealer on the old aluminium having cleaned it up and primed so that water 'couldn't' get in under the steel part. I put some delrin sheet between the brackets on the tubular outriggers and the new parts. They have been in use now about 4 years and when I last looked didn't look much different to when I fixed them in, just muddier. If you don't have all the seatbelts (eg you may have a cubby) you may need bolts to block the holes for the 3rd set's belt. Although it is a 300tdi, the tank on mine is at the rear in the TD5/Puma position so I had no issues with access - not sure if the tank under the driver's seat would get in the way. I had previously put a new floor in using all YRM bits without removing the tub. It's obviously easier if you can remove the tub, but perfectly possible without. There is a tutorial on doing it on YRM's site. The only extra thing I did apart from painting thoroughly was to insulate between floor supports and crossmembers with helicopter tape.
  3. I think is part of the egr, going to the w terminal to get an engine speed reading
  4. I like jotun jotamastic 90 AL. It's a 2-pack marine paint and seems to be hard wearing and tolerant of less than 100% perfect prep. Not sure whether it is isocyanate free TBH, but the spec sheets are readily available Link. If you do use it I find it easier to weigh the ingredients for small quantities, SML sell scales and provide tables of weights, but you have to buy 4 litres at a time. If you are blasting the case Jotun do other paints such as Barrier which may be better on a well prepared surface.
  5. Sorry, my previous post was a senile moment, I had the impression the target was 300tdi.
  6. Following this with some interest, all good stuff. A couple of points, @simonr I think suggested it would only need about 3 hp, but a poly vee belt should be able to transmit that on reasonable sized pulleys- I suspect it'll be rather more. I would be careful esp after @Ed Poore's experiences with snapped cranks; the power you can take from the nose may be quite limited (years back at Leyland there were problems for concrete mixers which had a nose driven hydraulic pump to drive the mixer) and the mass of the extra gubbins on the nose of the crank may not be good. The engine moves a surprising amount on its mounts, so I wondered if a pump could be mounted on brackets maybe cantilevered from the sump, then it could all move with the engine, and you could drive it through some short coupling with rubber isolation from the crank so the pulley could do its job. There are small couplings like a dog clutch to handle minor misalignments. Presumably you would bolt whatever coupling to the pulley centre with some kind of spacer over the crank bolt head to the 4 M8 holes, and it would become part of the crank mass unless decoupled.
  7. I believe also on 300s the vacuum pump exhausts into the crankcase ( mad idea in my opinion). So if you have a vacuum leak a lot of air will get pumped through. Quick check would be to take off the hose to the servo at the pump, fit a blank end instead to the pump and see if that altered the crank pressure - don't drive like that as the brakes would be very hard to push.
  8. So sorry to hear about your loss. It underlines that though the people at the sharp end may be able and dedicated, health is essentially a lottery. But a great freezer, and versatile inasmuch as you can store food in it as well as chill parts for shrink fitting. Looks like the you have done a totally 100% thorough job on the overdrive, it'll be very interesting to hear how it performs.
  9. Very sad news. Thanks, Les, for all your contributions.
  10. I know Overt and Locke, haven't been that way for a while. I think you guys are talking about ironmongers rather than DIY shops. Ironmongers have a unique smell, obviously hydrocarbon basically, but not sure exactly what....polish, turps, paraffin, beeswax...
  11. There is a series of videos on the steering box from Brittanica Restorations. It sounds like you might need a new sector shaft if it's pitted, I know Bearmach used to do them, but how good they are and whether available now I don't know. Otherwise I have heard of people having them hard chromed and reground.
  12. That might have been crankcase pressure when the gasket blew.
  13. I had the same thing, it was a dodgy ignition switch. It is just possible to change it without removing the column lock but as above, you need to do the diagnostics
  14. Probably quite difficult to implement without using fossil fuels.
  15. Absolutely! Terrific! Surprised you haven't made it fly supersonically and go underwater, maybe a job for next week?
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