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cackshifter

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cackshifter last won the day on September 25 2020

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About cackshifter

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  1. It does say up to 50,000 hours so, although mathematically challenged, you might have been right the first time. The biggest issue I have with things like that is the appearance on Defenders; I think they look rather odd but that I freely admit is a personal opinion
  2. Maybe take up slack in the cable with adjustment, so it gets pulled fully back when the handbrake is off? Adjuster is just behind handbrake.
  3. I have had the full width allisport for 10 years, no especial problems. As said it can rub, so I bought a metre of rubber section, basically a small round cord with a cut halfway through and put that along the cut lip of the front panel.
  4. Interesting bonnet, it seems to include the wing tops as well. Imagine how confused you'd feel if you nicked it and found it didn't fit.....
  5. I do like the stealth camper idea. I suppose if you wanted a 'window' you could always have a teeny camera and a screen inside.
  6. Re the Salisbury, there are (as always) an early and late type. The Late type (post'98?) is available as a kit STC4403 which includes the flange, nut and seal. The early type is a leather seal originally (AEU2515)?, but I think AAU3381 is an alternative in rubber or I believe Dana 60 seals may fit. You can't mix bits between early and late type sets. I had a similar problem and fitted the late type kit (you can't use the number of turns method on the nut to retighten) and used the Snagger 150lb ft tightening technique, and it has been absolutely fine ((but you will need to devise a method to
  7. First thing to check is handbrake adjustment. That sounds like a prime suspect
  8. The problem is probably contacts on the starter solenoid welded together or sufficient current leaking into the solenoid low power circuit to keep it partially energised. If the latter, disconnecting the solenoid circuit should stop the starter, otherwise if it keeps going it points to welded contacts. If so, you might get away with stripping the solenoid and cleaning up the contacts, or replacing the solenoid, rather than the whole starter. If pulling the solenoid feed stops it, you are looking at an ignition switch
  9. The warmer you dare get the aluminium, the better, as it expands more than steel. Ideally, hot aluminium, cold steel. So preheat a great idea. You might even try quenching the steel once you have welded onto it. And also try tapping the stud cold with a hammer if you can, not ridiculously hard, but you are trying to break the corrosion bonds. We are all willing you on.
  10. Re the glue I have used methacrylate (such as Plexus MA300; not cheapest but it sets very quickly which might be an advantage) as that is what YRM use
  11. If the motor is weak, one cause is worn brushes (gosh,built in '96 and already they have worn out); the brushes are available separately and are quite easy to replace, cheaper than a new motor anyway. Link oh and don't do what I once did and overgrease the cable - the motor could hardly move the cable without the wiper arms on. I use a PTFE grease, quite thin now. It can also be a corroded self park switch losing voltage, again available from SVC
  12. Most folk change the slave at the same time as for some reason they seem to fail at about the same time, and the bleeding has to be done anyway. There is a pedal adjustment to do once the hydraulics are sorted, the adjustment is a bolt through the front of the pedal box, the pedal has to be a certain height from the floor (it's in the manual, I can't remember off the cuff). But it'll probably be OK with new bits.
  13. Great to see the development still (and those Cummins motors can make some really big numbers) 👍
  14. And especially dangerous now there is a fair proportion with DRLs - it's possible for an unlight older vehicle to be concealed amongst them when the daylight levels are low
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