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Rusty rear seat belt bolts


NicTheOrange90

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Wanted to add a 3 point harness for my centre seat in the 2nd row seats, the bolts that hold the existing seat belsts are rusted in.

They have a T50 spline head on them, and I have broken to T50 sockets already on one of them.

Despite liberal quantities of WD, they refuse to budge !

Thinking of driller killer and bolts unerneath....

Any advice ?

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ive got an odd feeling that the captive nuts are on a 'flap' of metal under the floor that just swings on a rod or something strange. im sure i had to go underneath & push one back up when i refitted my backseats, of course it could have just been that rotten?

drill it all out & weld new captive nuts under the old ones (after drilling through the old ones) would make sense to me. of course my welding isnt good enough (read i cant) to do it, but it makes sense.

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They do bolt through to a bracket under the floor that is a loose fit to the chassis via a rod arrangmenet. The bracket should also be rivetted through the floor though, to stop it moving.

Have you tried any heat on the bolts? They are reasonably easy to get to underneath, so a couple of minutes with a gas gun type blow torch might do the trick?

Other than that, then you are going to have to drill the heads off, and make good once they are off the vehicle.

Alternatly, Why not use the type of harness that uses the clips? What sort of 3 point harness are you trying to fit, as I can't see where the third (top) point is going to come from?

Cheers

Mark

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I've had this same problem quite a few times. The whole arrangement isn't very expensive. If they look heavily rusted I don't even bother trying to undo the bolt. Grind the head off, drill out the rivets (4.5/5mm bit), then get underneath and remove the whole thing. You can then better remove the rest of the bolt with plenty of heat. Or replace the whole linkage.

Les. :)

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I've had this same problem quite a few times. The whole arrangement isn't very expensive. If they look heavily rusted I don't even bother trying to undo the bolt. Grind the head off, drill out the rivets (4.5/5mm bit), then get underneath and remove the whole thing. You can then better remove the rest of the bolt with plenty of heat. Or replace the whole linkage.

Les. :)

Just a note of caution here. I had the same problem and did exactly what Les said to do. Problem is that the I (eye) bolts that fix the barcket to the chassis are on back order at Land Rover. Consequently I have just bolted the brackets in place temporarily (to pass MOT) until the new I (eye) bolts come into stock.

HTH

Ivan

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Alternatly, Why not use the type of harness that uses the clips? What sort of 3 point harness are you trying to fit, as I can't see where the third (top) point is going to come from?

Cheers

Mark

Mark, the intention is to leave the existing 3 point inertia's, but put a 3 point in place of the centre lap belt so two straps come down from the top over the shoulders of the centre seat occupant. These two straps join together and all three have snap on hooks. My intention is to remove existing T50 bolts and replace with bolts that secure the two inertia's (so nothing changed there) but to get bolts with eye on the end to allow lap part of 3 point to clip on.

I will put a strong bar between the two bolts and put the joined shoulder straps on the bar.

Have eye bolts from Paddocks and 3 point racing type harness, suspect I will have to attach longer bolts to go thru bar and existing inertia's and then put all three bolts on to bar as thread on eye bolts is not long enough, (might get longer eye bolts which would be neater).

BTW - bar is 2cm by 1cm so will not bend, but might consider angle iron instead as this would be stronger, whole point is to utilise existing vehicle seat belt attachment points as far as possible.

Any suggestions/pointers welcome - will take a mockup photo and this might explain my thoughts....

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Andy,

I think Nic is describing his fitment of a central 3 point belt, rather than the existing/factory arrangement.

Nic, it sounds promising, I would be interested to see the photos...

Cheers

Mark

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