200tdi Oil pressure adaptor/banjo thread size

[sighnbox]

Hi every one I'm wanting to fit some Glow Shift Oil Pressure Gauge and Turbo boost Gauge. The oil one comes with a sender unit which is a 1/8th NPT electronic oil pressure sensor. So does any one know what the landy banjo/adaptor size is please part ETC4034.....All so what oil pressure roughly for a 200tdi ?

Thanks paul

[jackbw28]

Hi, having recently fitted an oil pressure (1/8npt) and temp gauge with keeping the original low pressure switch I ended up with this. I did not use the genuine LR adapter though so can't directly answer your question, but any standard motorsport adapter fits rather neatly. The engine is now fitted to the car and the senders are well out of the way from possible off-road damage.

The tapped hole that the factory low pressure switch fits into is M10*1 and the other larger tapped hole is M16*1.5

here are two photos of what I achieved with the standard 'motorsport' adapters, IIRC i got the adapter on ebay from JJC Race & Rally for about a tenner.

RE expected oil pressure; I havent yet started the engine as im mid-way through a re-build, but when I fitted mine I did a bit of research on the topic and came up with a max expected oil pressure of about 65psi. It will vary quite a lot though depending on a lot of factors. The pressure will drop as the engine warms up and the oil gets thinner but it shouldn't drop too far below about 20psi under reasonable load. But This is from my reading not experience with the 200tdi so I'm sure somebody else will confirm or disprove me!
Also it would be interesting to see what readings you get when its all fitted!

[sighnbox]

jackbw28 You are a STAR you just saved me £30 on parts from Land Rover ........£8 for the M10*1 oil pressure adapter from JJC Race & Rally and even with my discount Land Rover wanted nearly £40 for there adapter and banjo set up to add a sender unit (ETC4034 and ETC4033) and as for the sender unit its self wait for it (PRC4043) ...£92.00 plus VAT LOL ochhhhh .........I'm not sure if I will go for a oil temp as well or a clock instead that Glow Shift do as will prob add the Madman EMS2 Gauge as well due to its alarm system which moniters

battery voltage with high and low alarm

Engine running hours with service timer

Inclinometer and artificial horizon

Oil pressure loss alarm

Coolant level alarm

Coolant temperature with high and low alarms

Ambient temperature

Oil temperature with high and low alarms

Oil/Boost/Fuel/Aux Pressure with high and low alarms

Exhaust gas temperature with high alarm

[jackbw28]

No worries Paul. Yep Land Rover can be quite mad on prices for some things!

Hmm, I also would like a clock, havent bought one yet but will probably have both. They are surprisingly expensive though!

Interesting you should bring up the Madman as I havent heard much about them. Saying that I did look into them a bit when deciding what to fit and they look great! However in the end I decided to go for individual systems, some of which I'll design myself!

I don't know much about them though but understand you still have some DIYing with the senders in order for all the functions to work, if I remember correctly!
I have however fitted an engine watchdog for a second engine temp and alarm feature, this also controls my aux electric fan.

My oil pressure gauge has a built in alarm,

I will make my own low coolant alarm using a RangeRover expansion tank cap

For a battery monitor, Im going to have dual batteries and dual alternators, I'm toying with the idea of this:

http://www.xantrex.com/power-products/power-accessories/linklite-battery-monitor.aspx

It has the facility for a low voltage alarm and also a cut-off. It also will measure current in and out of both battery banks so pretty much does everything battery/charging related!

Jack.

Edited May 20, 2013 by western
weblink amended, it works now

[sighnbox]

Yes I have seen the engine watch dog I found that before the Madman one and all so one called engine guardian ....There all about the same price just the Madman one seamed to be able to do more and was a gauge rather than a unit type thing. The only reason I'm going for the Glow Shift gauges is that illuminate blue (well seven different colours but 3 shades of blue) As I have changed all the LED's in my dash so that all illuminates blue as well, and my carling switches in my Mud Stuff TD5 style dash ...all illuminate blue as do all my other switches, stereio blue, CB blue ....Landy is blue ...seats are blue and black and just had all my head lining dun in blue and black leather ..........Do you think there is a theme developing here lol

When I posted earlier I just clicked the Image Icon and then selected MY PICS to add a pic to message now its asking for a URL have I dun some thing wrong ???

Is ok worked it out its at the bottom...open your eyes Paul lol

[jackbw28]

Yeah, the madamn is tempting, I'd like to know how you get on with it! Can you buy it here or do you need to import it from SA?

Haha, liking your blue style! I have tried to keep a reasonably common theme in the cab so everything doesn't look cobbled together but nowhere as detailed as yours! Photo??

[sighnbox]

I will take a pic and post it up for you tomorrow as none of the new roof at mo. Had a great day on the landy she has had. New TWR master and slave clutch cylinders, Upgraded my clutch pedal to a 300tdi one with the assited spring, new Delphi back brake cylinders and mintex shoes. Clutch and brakes like a dream now. You drive it every day you don't realise how bad there getting do you it was all new 6-8 years ago as well so can't moan lasted ok.

Don't surpose you know ...On your turbo there is a tube comes out the side (not the over the top half circle one) it attaches to a square adapter which screws into the turbo do you know the size of that thread ? As I would rather plum my boost gauge pipe in there with a metal fixing rather than use a T piece in the top half circle pipe.

The blue on the seats and cubby box are a deep ish/medium blue just the flash makes it look light/and turquoise

[jackbw28]

Hi Paul,

Well done getting your hydraulics sorted your right it is amazing how they slowly deteriorate over time! I spent the evening trying to sort out my rad and bigger intercooler but did't quite finish... another job for tomorrow!

Unfortunately no, I don't know that particular thread size, I think its probably the only one on the whole engine I don't know! I did however manage to get a set of callipers across it for you; 10.20mm diameter so it isn't a standard metric thread. I didn't want to unscrew it as when I had my turbo rebuilt it looks as if it were replaced with some sort of glue/locktite and its bloody tight, thought it might break off trying to get it out! If you can get yours out you can buy a thread pitch gauge pretty cheaply and check, though It could one of many different various thread types so you may need a few sets! (I only have a metric one, cost about £2.50) so I'd just take it to a local engineering shop and they will be able to tell you what it is.

Here it is and where I measured:

As I was leaving that thing in, this is what I did for my boost gauge, a little extreme and not exactly how I wanted it, but it should work well, last and it looks quite good. My gauge came with a female 1/8npt adapter which is quite rare so I fitted this adapter with some stainless over-braid brake pipe:

Ideally I wanted to use the proper 'dash' style connectors for all the fittings but due to odd sized ended up with hose tails and worm-drive clips in some places, but i have so much to do on this bloody thing I couldn't bring myself to waste any more time on making my plumbing look good!

If you want to do it this way (although it would be neater I think to remove that adaptor screw like you want to) just ask and I can give you all the different hose tail sizes, there are more than you think!!

Your interior certainly is smart!! I do quite like the blue theme and tbh any theme is pretty good, mine was getting a bit too mismatched and when I finally get round to the interior I will try and theme it, but no where near as far as you have gone. The Td5 dash is a smart upgrade, are you going to to the binnacle mont bit in the Td5 style as-well?

On the blue theme, I took that to my engine though, got all the brackets and pulleys powder coated in 5002 'electric blue':

[sighnbox]

• That is one sexy sexy engine Think I've just made a balls up on my gauges my Turbo boost gauge is a turbo boost/vacume gauge Not just a pure turbo boost gauge ......ARRRRRRRRRRRR Dip switch failed last night new one been in six weeks ARRRRRRRRRR and sun roof started leaking again lol ARRRRRRRRRRRRR

[jackbw28]

Thanks

ARRRRRRRRR its a Land Rover!! Are you running higher output headlamps? As I think on 200tdi's (certainly on mine, but its older) the high current actually flows through the switch and there is no factory relay so if you up rate the headlamps to draw more current the switch may not be rated for that, causing it to burn out quickly.

I wouldn't worry about the boost/vacuum gauge. You'll find most boost gauges also have a vacuum bit, It's for petrol engine and we don't need it, but it won't do any harm. My range of gauges didn't even offer a gauge without the vacuum bit.

[jbs]

Run your head lights through an uprated headlight wiring loom-using relays etc., you can find out how to do it via the tech archive, I did mine about two years ago and have had superb results, mmgemini (Mike) is responsible for letting us know how to do it-credit goes to him of course.

Here you go: http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=80953&hl=%2Bheadlight+%2Bwiring+%2Busing+%2Brelays#entry694136

HTH

John

[sighnbox]

The engine looks amazing were did you get it dun and what dare I ask did they charge ??? That's the next job on mine engine out rebuild (not that there's out wrong with it) and engine detailing.

No I'm running the local land rover dealership headlamps (they did me a pair for £20) with 55W bulbs in All my spots are wired in from the battery with own fuse box / relays BUT interestingly I ran my lights as they are now for years all no problem then had to replace the switch ....travelled all the way to Wales from Norfolk with just dip beam at 3am LOL (Got a paddocks cheap brit part one) replaced it half way up a welsh mountain and that lasted 3 odd years had to replace it again 6 weeks ago and blown again........Now for the interesting part I phoned paddocks with my grumble told them what happened ....and no send it back to us or let us check it ...was instantly pay the diffrance and we will send you a Lucus one and we will pay the postage........So I wonder being a S***Part one and them just instant will send a Lucus one if they are prone to going wrong ????

And as Promised pics of the roof just waiting on LED roof lights to finish her off..

[Bowie69]

Nice alternative to a shabby stock LR headlining

[sighnbox]

One thing the trim around the windows looks naff in grey so do I spray it black or blue ???

[jackbw28]

Oh wow, that does look good! You must have spent a lot of time on that! Mines half rotten plywood atm.

Hmm, I'd say poor quality S**tpart switch. I have had some bad exprences with them and now actively don't use them for anything at all. There is always some sort or problem! Bearmach is a perfectly good alternative and where most of the parts for my rebuild have come from. I still bought gen LR or oem for certain critical things. I know some people say they are fine for certain things but I can't be bothered with the gamble - it's such a waste of time to fit something, especially if its hard to get to then have to do it again if it doesn't work! And buying once is certainly cheaper then twice if you can't get a refund or whatever. When I spend money buying a part I do expect it to fit perfectly and work as intended, which is often (but not always) not the case with the blue boxes!

However wiring the relays in as mentioned above is a good idea, you may even notice slightly brighter headlamps as there is less wire for the current to to run down thus les of a voltage drop at the lamps.

Um the engine, thanks again - it's been a long time of hard work! I did most of it myself over about 3 months. However I did cheat and get a recon stripped engine in, which saved me loads of time but did cost a small fortune!! Although not a huge amount more than rebuilding it yourself if you price up all the bits and the work you would need to send out for. The painting (I did get a few bits powder coated as-well), cleaning (lots of it) and bolting all the bits back together I did myself. I am however sort or rebuilding the whole car car before moving to Kenya for work. If your interested I have started a build thread but havent really got to any interesting bits yet...

For Land Rover engine's the best place to go in my opinion is 'Turner Engineering'. They however only supply a stripped engine (or even less if you want). I'm not sure who you would go to for a complete ready to drop in engine... probably ask a garage to bolt all the bits to a Turner engine! Have a look at their website for prices if you dare

Oh and I finally got my radiator/intercooler fitted this evening, its looking like a car again And I vote black for the window trim!

[sighnbox]

Oh I did sort of learn my lesson on good parts ages ago but you think its only a switch what poss can go wrong lol. I all ways use gen Land Rover filters, for things like UJ's Hardy Spicer heavy duty etc etc. As you say nothing worse than doing the same job twice needlessly. At least the dip switch is a quick and easy one to do so not to bad. You dun fantastic on the engine I don't really have the equipment or teq know how to re build a landy engine I've dun motorbikes but that's bit easier lol. Don't even have a garage half the time our kitchen table is covered in Landy bits or used as a spray booth lol. So far my best quote from guy just up from Richards chassis is £2000 to take it out re build it paint it all up paint all the ancillaries (new ones) as I want etc

[jackbw28]

Yeah, i did it in the shed - it's amazing the deciding factor for moving into this house was that it had a good shed/drive for working on the landy!!

Um, £2K seems very good to me - almost too good! But it does depend on what he actually does, as a recon engine alone can cost £2K. The turbo is about £250 and injection pump is another £450 ish and if you want to replace ALL the bits it quickly adds up. You have all the gaskets which come to over £100 on their own, then the starter is a few hundred, vacuum pump, fuel lift pump, seals all will cost something! Obviously you probably don't need or want to replace everything but if you did replace or recondition all ancillaries I don't think it's possible for £2000.

Regarding the engine itself it is very difficult to say what it will cost as it depends on how worn parts are inside, and the only way to check is to disassemble and measure bits. If your lucky a lot of the bits will be within tolerance and can be reused. It's an tricky one, ask the guy if that includes a recon turbo and injection pump. Tbh I doubt you would need to recon the injection pump, they are a very reliable Bosch unit! But if he's quoting for all new ancillaries I'd be intrigued as to how for that price!

Regarding the light switch... I'd just see how it goes with this lucas one. If this one goes relatively quickly you will most likely have another problem. But it's such a simple circuit that if it all works and the lights are working properly it's unlikely anything is wrong. As mentioned the high current passes through the switch so it's under load all the time - but if its rated for that it shouldn't be an issue. Where you get the highest current is when you flick the switch as the instantaneous current will peak higher than the nominal usage and I'm skeptical the cheap switches will take this into account. Also exactly which switch is it, the main 3-way (off, side, main) or the one you flick for high beam? If it's the high beam one I've noticed with mains switched on dip if you pull the switch back as if you want to flash the lights, you get both the dip and high beam filaments turning on at the same time. This will 'add' additional current to the circuit and thus switch and It is not a good idea to do! (also not good for the bulb) On my other 'modern' car you can't actually do this for more than a second (just to flash) for that reason I suspect!

[sighnbox]

Ok his add reads.... says.......

"With 35 years working on Land Rovers I offer unrivaled experience and product quality plus the unbeatable 1 year unlimited mileage warranty. All of my engines are hand built by me only. They are re-bored or re-linered back to standard and all crankshafts are re-ground, and always brand new pistons, shells, valves, oil pump gears, oil pressure relief valves, seals and core plugs are fitted. All cylinder heads are pressure tested and skimmed or replaced as appropriate. I can swap all of your ancillaries and accurately set your injector pump timing with my Snap On, Blue-Point Digital timing kit, or I'll fit the engine for you for including parts so you can drive away in total confidence (especially with the unlimited mileage warranty) and the knowledge that everything has been checked and accurately and professionally fitted. With this quality of workmanship, expertise, price and peace of mind, why take a chance on second hand.

200 TDI £795 ( As above plus Sump, Camshaft and followers, Front Cover including the Oil Pump and Timing Gears)"

That's his advert wording and have spoken to him on the phone and said I wanted all the engine bay and ancilerys painting as well said about replacing and painting and that was my quote.......So will see when the time comes (soon I hope now seen yours lol)

The lights switch is the dip switch (melted) have the lucus one on now ..that's very intresting about pulling the switch towards you so I really must stop doing that.

I will try and find an adapter for the turbo pipe fitting (I notice your plug/attachment is brass as well is there any reason for that being brass ?) Must be able to get a screw in T piece for there .

You crack me up brought a house coss had a good drive and shed for the landy lol........I'm trying for a ramp in the garden at mo with the mrs I've even offed to paint it grass green and Astro Turf the ramp wheel channels so it blends in a bit more........but its a no go at the mo but I'm working on her lol.

I invested in pure Turbo boost gauge today (same make/place from USA) as I couldn't live with the other one being wrong/not correct but they did say if I post the other one back to them when it arrives they would give me a refund on it so not so bad a bit of postage to the USA so all I lost £5-£10 on a bit of postage I can live with that...but couldn't looking at that gauge all the time knowing its wrong lol.

[jackbw28]

Okay, I recognise that blurb, I know of the company! I did consider them when I was looking for a recon engine, though I was going to do the fitting, setting timing and swapping ancillaries myself. He actually wants £995 for a 'stripped' engine. The £795 is for a 3/4 engine, which is basically an engine with no cylinder head i.e the same as a 'short' engine but with the front cover, oil pump, timing gears etc... A short engine is just the block, crank and pistons. Generally when you buy a recon engine you can choose between buying a 'short' '3/4' or 'stripped' engine.

If you want the whole lot you will need a stripped engine. I never asked about fitting etc but I know how much the turbo and pump cost as I did that to mine (the pump is extremely expensive, but I did it for peace of mind when Im going to be alone (only 1 landy) in the Sahara desert later this year!!). But basically the turbo and pump come to £700 which means he's going to buy all the other ancillaries, pay labour, and make a profit off the remaining £300!! I don't see how! I think it's more likely he will use most of your existing ancillaries, clean and paint them before fitting to your recon engine for £2000. And there is nothing at all wrong with that, it's unlikely you need a new vacuum pump or starter etc etc. The fuel pump and turbo are critical though, but as I said before the pump is bullet proof and probably doesn't need doing (only bosch can do this anyways) but I would suggest doing the turbo.

Even the price of his stripped engine alone is much lower than other companies, this made me question quality a bit as the price difference was huge, if you've been on Turners website their stripped engines are almost double his price! I also spoke to him, and asked how he can do it for so much less - he said his overheads are much lower, which is probably true to a degree but then I pressed him on what parts he used and he admitted not using OEM parts. Turners for example only use OEM parts. Although he offered to fit OEM parts if I wanted. Turners have been on the landy engine scene for years, and even helped land rover with some problems on an engine many years ago and I trust them more than almost any other company out there, they always reply to very technical questions quickly, even on weekends and are generally very helpful. However an engine is an engine and I'm very sure this other company will do a very good job for less money - but after he re-quoted me for oem only parts the difference between him and Turners was much smaller and I went with Turners for extra peace of mind.

It's difficult though as Turners don't do fitting or painting or anything else, so they don't offer a all in one solution, like the other place. Realistically I'm sure their engines are very good, his prices certainly are and you get the warranty if there is a problem. But I'd double check the ancillaries bit!!

Oh right, yeah just see how the lucas goes! Oh pulling it back is fine to flash, thats what it's for - but not to be held on, especially when you have main beams already on!

haha, yeah it was a bit far, I seem to spend more time in the shed than the house when im home... oh dear! And I'm going to be moving out soon, so wasn't very long lived after all!

Oh thats good, things are better perfect!!

[sighnbox]

Decisions decisions it all ways takes me ages and ages to make my mind up on any major thing on it NO JOKE I looked for 3 years for some one to re spray it and yes there are brilliant people out there at there jobs who do an amazing job at bargin prices to be had. The spray job being one as say I looked 3 years and all were mega expensive, to cheap and carp, or were only going to mask off windows lights rather than remove them, or just part rub it down, or had no oven to bake the paint.

For years I passed this spray place but never went in and asked as it looked way to posh and expensive (had seen porches and Bentley's out side) He was the local dealer ship contract spray man...... eventualy out of desperation to get the job dun I went in and asked. And boy was I surprised and he good very good .....my Landy was striped right down widows lights out the lot then rubbed down to bare metal all over.......sprayed and baked. Then re built All new doors hung and swopped fittings out of old doors ....(but new window channels and rubbers) The paint job is amazing it litraly has a better job than a new one (if I park next to a new one in the dealership) It was painted 7 years ago and still has a shine on it like a show car (like glass) His price for that was £1800 It was in the paint shop SIX weeks........I saw it most days (dropping stuff of for the re build ) and the work they put into it was some thing else. He is just one example I've been very very lucky and had quite a few like that by taking my time and hunting around etc

So will do the same with the engine and shop about and prob as usual take for ever to decide who but word of mouth is great and will look into them as you seam to really rate them.

[jackbw28]

haha, 3 years is a long time!! But I agree it's better to wait and get a good job rather than rush it and then be Mildly miffed off with it. Well done with finding that paint shop, it sounds awesome! They baked the whole thing, that has got to be a fantastic pint job and it sounds a good price for the work they did!

I recently had the dilema of painting, well I still do to some extent... As I was doing all this mechanical work I thought it would be a shame not to to redo the awful military paint job (also not sure how well a nato green 110 would go down in Libya atm). However I'm a lot tighter when it comes to spending money on non mechanical things! So, after getting some quotes the cheapest was £1000, so I decided to do it myself! I spent £300 on a compressor and gun, another £150 on paint and rags etc and set to work on the wings. I am doing it in stages as it's not fun and so much work! Anyways I did the wings last week as they were already off (now back on ). It came out much better than expected but is by no means a pro job, there is a lot to it.

Heres the freshly painted wings hanging off some 'summer' chairs in by awfully maintained garden... I'm happy with the finish, but just hope it doesn't all fall of in a couple of years!

Also, I've decided after putting the engine back together and fitting everything back on that I would like an EGT gauge.... Need to decide which one and how to fit the sender now! Any ideas for a 200tdi Defender engine... not as obvious as a 300 or 200 disco!

Well done with that paint job, have you got any close up pictures of it for a little comparison! - do you know what type of paint they used?

Also regarding your boost gauge, it's certainly possible to get an adapter to screw straight into the turbo replacing that thing thats already there. It will also be a very neat way of doing it, no idea why it's brass though - sure it doesn't matter too much, just wouldn't use steel!

[sighnbox]

The paint was a standard Land rover colour Oslo/Royal blue but as for what type/mix unknown. Well if its going to be a working Landy especialy a desert working Landy no point in spending a fortune on paint as a few good sand storms would take its toll on the paint work. Like the colour have for great desert colour that. And you no time for gardening you got a Landy to get ready for ADVENTURE lol (so so jelouse love the desert would live in Egypt if I could ) will sort a pic and by way sent you a private mail........

Got you pic to open(wouldn't open) Looks a well neat job nout wrong with that perfect finish for desert landy...So are you going to go the camel type look then ???