110 rear axle on a 90

[Landowner]

Any one know the length of a Disco 200 front prop as I have been told that it may fit when I put a Salisbury 110 axle under my 90, might have to shorten mine if it doesn't

thanks

[Aragorn]

depends what engine/gearbox you have at the moment?

If its an early 2.5NAD as in your footer, then you want a 300tdi/td5 defender front prop, or any Disco front prop. Should be 610mm.

Stock early 90 rear is 635mm, so you end up with a 25mm shorter prop by using the later front.

[Maverik]

Ball and ache if you ask me... my truck came with a Salisbury rear and all it did was cause me hassle, its not worth it. - but if you want to go that way Aragorn is perfectly correct - rather than ask him I found it out the hard way...! also the TD5 front prop has the wide angle UJ set-up which you will sure to need. but the UJ's are expensive and not that easy to come buy and you may be needing a few...

[Aragorn]

What hassles did you have Maverik?

[Maverik]

Main problem I found was the diff nose angle to output shaft level combined with the shorter prop seemed to make the prop angle quite extreme, I had a 2inch lift and cranked trailing arms when I first got the truck, the vibration was horrific and it chewed through props UJ's at a great rate of knots...

So I put harder lower springs under it to give a lift just about 20mm which decreased the diff nose to output flange distance which helped , but obviously still stressed the prop out. I probably should have removed the cranked arms at this point (but I didn't). The prop angle seemed to accentuate a tired diff pinion bearing looseness, which drove me insane, changing the bearing in the diff was pretty much a no no, so I got fed up and swapped it out for a D1 rear with disc's. best thing I ever did. Still running cranked trailing arms and still not got the best longevity on my UJ's - when I get time I'll be swapping the trailing arms out for standard ones as my lift doesn't justify them (they're nice though as they are mega heavy duty)

I remember Si (x-eng) writing a good speal about camber correction on front axles and how camber corrected radius arms mess with your diff nose angle and can create a bad angle for your props... I think I had all the worst possible bits put together for mine.

So after thinking about it, I had a pain with a Salisbury rear, but if done with a bit of thought (I didn't do mine some other numb skull did it...!) you could probably get it to work quite well - you just need to be mindful of the short prop and long(er) diff nose and the angles you'll be subjecting the prop too...

Hope that helps explain my rather first bitter response (being a new land rover owner at the time it was the bane of my life, so I now automatically hate Salisbury's!) - although they are very heavy duty good bits of kit.

Mav

[Aragorn]

hmm, hopefully i'll be ok then, as my engines in 300tdi/td5 position, and my rear prop will be an early front prop at 654mm, ie longer than a standard early 90 rear.

Also, i'm running stock height, so no awkward diff angles i guess?

[Maverik]

Hmm, doesn't really matter where your engine sits, its more the transfer box position... my understanding ( I may be wrong...) but it was that the transfer box position has always been in the same position, the only thing that's moved is the engine position in relation to this, i.e. the bell housing length differs...

If you've got a standard set-up then I presume you're using a def/disco R380 with standard bell housing.

Why are you going/gone for a Salisbury rear over a standard rover unit? - anything over a single use trials/bobtailed rock crawler type vehicle I think you'd be making life a lot harder for yourself.

Back to topic, yeah you should be ok if you're keeping your prop angles nice and shallow.

[Aragorn]

nope, they moved the TXB (and gearbox) forward about 2 inches on the 300tdi/TD5 compared with earlier models, as well as lengthening the bellhousing.

Hence the 300tdi/td5 front prop is 610mm, and the earlier trucks front prop is 654mm (and the rear prop was lengthened by a similar amount)

I went for the salisbury becuase it was cheap and strong. Yeh, i could have gone for a later 24 spline rover axle, but for similar money i got the extra strength of the salisbury thrown in, which seemed like a good idea at the time. Maybe i'll regret it later.

[Maverik]

Hmm interesting I did not know that, it should help you then definitely as you'll have a more effective length on your rear prop over what I have... or think I have.... I wonder if I have the earlier or later setup... I think it must be the earlier one as all my knobs and sticks line up in the original LT77 seat box and tunnel cover arrangement...

If you do ever regret it, give me a ring... I seem to have ample spare axles just now!

[jai_landrover]

I run my 90 with a sals for 5 years now. I t has 3 inch taller softer springs and 2 inch spacer blocks on the rear the diff angle has to be right if you have the rear radius arms fitted the wrong side of the chassis means the axle rotates and the nose of the diff sits high (worse on a sals than a rover because the nose is longer) this makes the landy undrivable above 30mph!! I did this at a comp to gain all of 6mm shorter wheelbase which made bugger all difference but proved that the propshaft angles are ever so important.