bushwhacker Posted January 21, 2014 Share Posted January 21, 2014 Hello out there. So I'm thinking it's time for a new clutchfork and maybe a clutch in my 300tdi Disco. What is the best way to do this job? Engine out or gearbox back? I have had a trawl but cant find any good info! (Having said that I know someone will make me red faced. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ex Member Posted January 21, 2014 Share Posted January 21, 2014 Sorry? What is wrong exactly? Are you saying the pedal is solid and does not move? Yes, that is a collapsed clutch fork. While in their replace everything....from the clutch master all the way to the clutch itself and crank seal. No point in doing things twice. IMO, gearbox out if you have a lift. Engine if you don't. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bushwhacker Posted January 21, 2014 Author Share Posted January 21, 2014 Yeah solid pedal, fluid still in reservoir. Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bushwhacker Posted January 23, 2014 Author Share Posted January 23, 2014 Hello out there. Can anyone tell me how many studs and flanged nuts hold the engine and gearbox together on a 300tdi Disco. I am hoping I have got them all because if there is one more at the top I dont see it and I dont know how to remove it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
disco_al Posted January 23, 2014 Share Posted January 23, 2014 IIRC there is a how to in the technical section which shows how to do it by sliding the box backwards. Easier than dropping the box on the floor or removing the engine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ex Member Posted January 23, 2014 Share Posted January 23, 2014 14, I think or maybe 12. There should be 3 on the top, 1 on top dead center. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bushwhacker Posted January 23, 2014 Author Share Posted January 23, 2014 Hi there Red90 thanks for the pic. I can count 8 studs and 4 flanged nuts, at least thats what I have taken out. What can you pick out? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bushwhacker Posted January 27, 2014 Author Share Posted January 27, 2014 Update for anyone doing the clutch fork repair or fitting a new clutch. I ended up having to remove 9 flanged nuts (all around the top with 3 very hard to get at) and 4 studs (around the bottom easily got at). If I were to do it again I might take the gear box out method. But the center nut at the top would still prove very awkward I am sure. My 110 was a lot easier to do floor out gear box supported with an engine hoist then moved back loads of room for a clutch change. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ex Member Posted January 27, 2014 Share Posted January 27, 2014 What I normally do.... Loosen the gearbox mounts, lift the engine, remove the engine mounts, then drop the engine down low to access the upper nuts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bushwhacker Posted January 28, 2014 Author Share Posted January 28, 2014 I/we removed both engine mounts both parts, undone the steering box to lower it allowing room to tilt engine down to remove top nut on bell housing. The rest was fairly normal. Thanks for your input. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ex Member Posted January 28, 2014 Share Posted January 28, 2014 You still need to remove that nut by the gearbox method. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bushwhacker Posted January 28, 2014 Author Share Posted January 28, 2014 That nut may not go back on. ;-) I'm going to get my old pal 110 (bushwhacker no 1) back up and running. The Disco's are driving me crazy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boydie Posted January 31, 2014 Share Posted January 31, 2014 I just used a jack lifting up the front of the engine, at this point I would advise anyone attempting this job to go out and buy a good, very good cordless, air powered or elecric rattle gun, it makes it so much easier and its a handy tool to have. Next get a 30" long 1/2" extension drive, using this you can access all the bolts. Remove the inner console, hand brake cable, speedo wiring, exhaust pipe(s) both prop shafts and gearbox cross member, lower the box with a hydraulic lifter, undo all the bolts and slide the gearbox back, getting it back is the trick as it will always kick to the right due to the weight of the transfer box. I fixed this by bolting a plate to the lifter and drilled three holes to match those on the under-side of the box - that and a chain over the box to prevent it fron twisting. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tuskar Posted February 2, 2014 Share Posted February 2, 2014 Hi Bushwacker, Know what you mean about those upper nuts, bit of a pain . I made up long extension bar with socket , and using a good head torch and trolly jacks I made the job bearable. Disco is great landy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bushwhacker Posted February 2, 2014 Author Share Posted February 2, 2014 The nuts went on alot handier than coming off. I'm going back to my 110 csw 2.5na that needs a 200/300tdi conversion. I have already put a disc brake rear axle in so engine next. Selling my 200 and 300 disco will help fund the 110. I like disco's but the rust is a nightmare. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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