CJ1 Posted July 15, 2014 Share Posted July 15, 2014 About a month after I got the car, the rear windows started dying. As in the switches that operate them would only seem to work as when it felt like it. The rear windows don't respond at all anymore. I was told that the the isolation switch was faulty, so have tried replacing that with a known working one although it is from the prefacelift Discovery but still a TD5. But this didn't work. Surely both window motors couldn't have packed up at the same time could they? Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Cheers in advance. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
axlechorus Posted July 15, 2014 Share Posted July 15, 2014 Slow failure of both sides would indicate to me something electrical as I wouldn't buy both motors packing up at the same time following the same failure path as well. My first port of call would be to check and clean both window switches, the isolation switch and the general wiring in the centre console as if both windows are mirroring each other then the fault logically should be on some part of the system that is common to both sides I.e. the base of the Y fork 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CJ1 Posted July 15, 2014 Author Share Posted July 15, 2014 Thank you, I have had a look at the wiring that I could get to and have found something a little bit worrying. Bodged wiring that has been crimp connected together. And I think I will have to remove the centre consol to get to the entire loom. The front windows work fine. And I have used switch cleaner on all the switches. Cheers axlechorus. I think I may have a look into it all a lot more tomorrow. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sierrafery Posted July 15, 2014 Share Posted July 15, 2014 start with the simple things first, check fuse F13 interior fusebox to make good contact, then check theyr's earth...there's an earth header under the central console in front of the airbag ECU, make sure it makes good contact too... you can't miss it it's full of black wires(C0552 - RAVE - Electrical library - connector views) to rule out the isolation switch bridge the black and grey wires on it's back...also make sure there's good earth on the black wire(measure with ohmeter against body) 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CJ1 Posted July 16, 2014 Author Share Posted July 16, 2014 Wish I had read that before I had been out to the car today sierrafery. I will try that at the weekend. But today I took pictures of what I found. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CJ1 Posted July 16, 2014 Author Share Posted July 16, 2014 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Disco DJ Posted July 19, 2014 Share Posted July 19, 2014 I had this on mine. All the switches were full of crud. Have you taken the switches out and stripped them right down and cleaned them? Good chance that might fix it. They are a little fiddly, that's why I said take them right out (and work on the bench/table) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CJ1 Posted August 2, 2014 Author Share Posted August 2, 2014 Ok, cheers, I will give that a go. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CJ1 Posted August 5, 2014 Author Share Posted August 5, 2014 I have started with the switches 1 step at a time as I work my way through the suggestions above. Today I took the switches apart and found they were caked up with crud inside, so I blasted them clean with carb cleaner, I would have used switch cleaner but couldn't find it so used what I had as I have no spare money as it is all being poured into the Discovery's repairs and MOT which is only a few days away. Anyway cleaning the switches out didn't make the rear windows work this time and I tried bridging the connectors on the window locking switch and that didn't work either. After the MOT when the weather is dry again I will check the wiring by the airbag ECU. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sierrafery Posted August 5, 2014 Share Posted August 5, 2014 but did you check F13 too? ...cos you didnt mention about it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CJ1 Posted August 5, 2014 Author Share Posted August 5, 2014 After I had got back and rested for a while it got too dark outside. And I forgot to read the replies again before I went fault hunting. So no, forgot to check F13 lol. Total scatter brain today for some reason and annoyingly forecast from tonight is rain, rain and more ruddy rain. So will have to wait until Friday and while it is in my mates workshop having the sump swapped over and the drag arms replaced I will try and remember to get in and have a look at the fuses. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CJ1 Posted August 23, 2014 Author Share Posted August 23, 2014 Update, I have finally checked F12 and F13 Fuses and they were fine, I cleaned the connections and wiggled them around as I pushed them back in and no difference. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ratty43 Posted August 23, 2014 Share Posted August 23, 2014 Are TD5 Windows controlled via an ECU as they are on 300tdi Discos? It sounds like the same problem I had on my Disco when the solder on the ECU dried and cracked. Easy to fix if that is the case. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sierrafery Posted August 23, 2014 Share Posted August 23, 2014 Are TD5 Windows controlled via an ECU as they are on 300tdi Discos? It sounds like the same problem I had on my Disco when the solder on the ECU dried and cracked. Easy to fix if that is the case. it's not...completely different on a D2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Disco DJ Posted August 23, 2014 Share Posted August 23, 2014 Are you sure you cleaned the switches properly? Blasting them with cleaner is a waste of cleaner. I stripped mine down into little pieces at the kitchen table and just wiped everything clean with tissue. It is a bit fiddly. Also you could check their function with a multimeter whilst you're there. Did you say the fronts work fine? If so, can you swap switches to test? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CJ1 Posted August 23, 2014 Author Share Posted August 23, 2014 I took the top parts of the switches off and used a fine paint brush in to what I could get to. I am going to give up on the rear windows for another few weeks now though as I have managed to score some nice cheap replacement parts for other parts of the Disco that weren't working. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Disco DJ Posted August 25, 2014 Share Posted August 25, 2014 I took the top parts of the switches off and used a fine paint brush in to what I could get to. I am going to give up on the rear windows for another few weeks now though as I have managed to score some nice cheap replacement parts for other parts of the Disco that weren't working.IF it is the switches it needs doing more thoroughly than that I'm afraid! The gunk inside the mechanism that flicks the contacts open to closed gets restricted. You need it in little tiny pieces, clean it up, then have fun reconstructing! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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