De Ranged Posted November 12, 2016 Share Posted November 12, 2016 17 hours ago, Wave Mountain said: De Ranged, thank you for your post, which has arrived just in time. After much reading AND discussion with paint supplier in UK (Frosts) i came to the conclusion that if i had my chassis and all suspension parts sand blasted and made an effort to keep them rust free before i painted them, then this would be the best result. Frosts, who i do think know their stuff, said freshly sand blasted items would be ideal for painting with POR15 direct to metal so long as no post blasting primer or such like was applied. From your post i believe you are saying that even if it is freshly blasted, then it might be favourable to let it rust over slightly AND use the 'Metal Ready' prep coat ? (i don't think we have the Marine Clean here. I'll have to check). You also think this is essential, yes ? even with freshly blasted items ? Thanks again. I would recommend the marine clean, its surprising how much oil and grease a surface can pick up even when your carefull.... its a good general purpose cleaner too As for letting a little surface rust start before applying I agree with this and have let my camper chassis rust for that reason.... I'm also treating the inside of the rails as well, I'm planning on using the nozzle from my underseal gun on a length of hose and a couple of bits of bent wire to hold the nozzle sort of centered in the rail and drag it through.... its the same trick I plan on useing for Waxoil after the POR15 has dried, now this is an educated guess as to it working lol this stuff doesn't like to be thinned for spraying so this is my answer... if anybody has a go at this before I get to mine let me know how it goes 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wave Mountain Posted November 14, 2016 Share Posted November 14, 2016 Thank you De Ranged. I hope all is well with you after Quakes and Tsunamis !! I would recommend you clean out the inside of your chassis prior to any rust neutralising or POR 15 application. I used the Karcher drain cleaning hose ( see attached link) to get right inside my chassis. I had to make some pre existing holes slightly larger using a step cutter, so the hose could get in, but it cleaned all of the rubbish out fully. I left the chassis to dry for a week (in the summer) and blasted it with compressed air, then sprayed rust neutraliser internally. left that to dry for a couple of weeks, or more ? then waxoyled the chassis internally. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
De Ranged Posted November 16, 2016 Share Posted November 16, 2016 When the first bunch hit I was home, the dog went nuts and that plus the banging woke the miss's she thought there was someone in the house so woke me in a panic lol I was half way down the stairs fist balled before I realised there was an earthquake.... it rolled on for at least a min, good enough the light fittings hanging in the lounge had a 90 degree swing! in the morning I had a look around other than a couple of books down it was all good that said we are were 600km from the closest big one in a new steel framed house and it is preped for this... things are strapped and screwed to the walls so they can't fall over That is a drain snake I have one on our Hydro excavator at work that is 22L a min at 4500 psi.... we drag ours back running, I've never seen one that small before that would be just the ticket for cleaning a chassis As for mine I cleaned the soil etc and the scale rust out when I did the rust repairs... I also used a length of wire with a looped end that I spun on the end of a drill it flails away inside the chassis to dislodge dirt underseal and scale rust then I put the air line in to blow it all out I'm planing on continuously applying the metal ready for about three times the normal application time, the phosphoric acid in there will remove all the rust and give a good etch for the POR then I'll coat it with waxoil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wave Mountain Posted November 16, 2016 Share Posted November 16, 2016 38 minutes ago, De Ranged said: When the first bunch hit I was home, the dog went nuts and that plus the banging woke the miss's she thought there was someone in the house so woke me in a panic lol I was half way down the stairs fist balled before I realised there was an earthquake.... it rolled on for at least a min, good enough the light fittings hanging in the lounge had a 90 degree swing! in the morning I had a look around other than a couple of books down it was all good that said we are were 600km from the closest big one in a new steel framed house and it is preped for this... things are strapped and screwed to the walls so they can't fall over That is a drain snake I have one on our Hydro excavator at work that is 22L a min at 4500 psi.... we drag ours back running, I've never seen one that small before that would be just the ticket for cleaning a chassis As for mine I cleaned the soil etc and the scale rust out when I did the rust repairs... I also used a length of wire with a looped end that I spun on the end of a drill it flails away inside the chassis to dislodge dirt underseal and scale rust then I put the air line in to blow it all out I'm planing on continuously applying the metal ready for about three times the normal application time, the phosphoric acid in there will remove all the rust and give a good etch for the POR then I'll coat it with waxoil Best of luck with the chassis, your method sounds very throrough. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
De Ranged Posted November 21, 2016 Share Posted November 21, 2016 Lol I want to keep this one till they take my licence off me for being old and dangerous and with the work I'm doing to it I don't want to have to re-do it ! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wave Mountain Posted November 21, 2016 Share Posted November 21, 2016 2 hours ago, De Ranged said: Lol I want to keep this one till they take my licence off me for being old and dangerous and with the work I'm doing to it I don't want to have to re-do it ! Well De Ranged, as they say 'If a job's worth doing, its worth doing well' ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rattles Posted December 14, 2016 Share Posted December 14, 2016 Hi guys, can I just say I've tried all sorts of tricks and coatings on internal chassis beams over the years and nothing comes near to the Corosion neutralising, pasivating, seeking and preserving effect of oil...simple cheap very effective. Basically where there's oil you won't be troubled with rust. Spraying a chassis or sill internally couldn't be simpler...check out Chassis Wand on eBay... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ejparrott Posted December 16, 2016 Share Posted December 16, 2016 Check out Buzzweld. He's been running samples of age old tricks for rust prevention. Grease lasted about 24 hours, oil failed within a week. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rattles Posted December 16, 2016 Share Posted December 16, 2016 5 hours ago, ejparrott said: Check out Buzzweld. He's been running samples of age old tricks for rust prevention. Grease lasted about 24 hours, oil failed within a week. Thanks that's interesting, do you khow how the trial was conducted and the samples assessed and what constituted a failure. Time after time I see the end results of rampant oxide formations under the encapsulation of wax...much like simply painting over corrosion. Not so bad when you can thoroughly process the surface when it's external and the Buzzweld product and processes for external surfaces is exelent...but not convinced that they have a solution for internal surfaces as they have simply reverted back to wax. And assessing internal deterioration is very difficult if not impossible without an endoscope ...not the usual toolbox kit and by the time you realise there's a problem it's often and sadly too late. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ejparrott Posted December 18, 2016 Share Posted December 18, 2016 If you are on Facebook you can look up the Buzzweld group and Craig Jones and all is there to see, there is also a website but I've not looked at it. Testing is as basic as it gets....a range of kwality coatings have been applied as directed by the manufacturers/old wives tales and left out to weather. Dates are noted, and signs of rust formation are noted alongside. Grease and oil failed within the first week, a bunch of other coatings failed to do what the manufacturers stated, but interestingly Screwfix own trade red oxide primer was one of the best performers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rattles Posted December 19, 2016 Share Posted December 19, 2016 On 18 December 2016 at 11:02 AM, ejparrott said: If you are on Facebook you can look up the Buzzweld group and Craig Jones and all is there to see, there is also a website but I've not looked at it. Testing is as basic as it gets....a range of kwality coatings have been applied as directed by the manufacturers/old wives tales and left out to weather. Dates are noted, and signs of rust formation are noted alongside. Grease and oil failed within the first week, a bunch of other coatings failed to do what the manufacturers stated, but interestingly Screwfix own trade red oxide primer was one of the best performers. Thanks, my endoscope bulb popped the other week but once I found a replacement (probably from the national science museum, stamped up Eddison) I'll post a couple of pictures of my ageing Disco chassis internal (I sound a bit nerdy now) that I spray with Duck oil every year, not only has it totally arrested all further corrosion but it stays wet with oil in its shrouded invironment. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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