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landybehr

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  1. In my eyes that sounds like a case for an Ashcroft - ATB "locker". Fit it and forget it. http://www.ashcroft-transmissions.co.uk/index.php?act=viewProd&productId=259 http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic13545.html I have the comparable "TrueTrac" ATBs in my RRC and am very fond of them. But in the end it depends on what you want to do with the vehicle etc. And while sending an order to Ashcroft, you could add the H/D halfshafts and CV-joints from them to the basket. Possibly with the H/D drive flanges.
  2. Tom17 - If you are prepared to use dirty tricks, then let a couple of Defenders run the track you want to compare the two vehicles against each other. Preferably some deep, muddy section. You might catch the Jimny by the lower ground clearance that they usually have - when there are deeper ruts, they will get bogged down. At the nearest playground over here there are some puddles. You cannot see how deep the water is. But you can be sure, that loads of Defenders, some 35"-tyred, and occasionally Volvo C303´s went through them over the last years. They left ruts on the ground of the puddle that are too deep for the Suzukis. Haven´t seen them coming through. Admittedly even lot of Defenders dare no more, or need extraordinarily lot of momentum.
  3. I believed that the MTF-94 was basically an ATF with other additives. According to: http://www.texacobaltic.eu/en/products/cars/mtf-94.html I´m wrong. They say it´s a 75W80. I think the motor oil viscosities are rated differently. So could well be, that 0W30 in "real world" is just as "thick" as the 75W80. Not sure though.
  4. same question been asked elsewhere. The Aftermarket bumper weighs 14kg (according to an internet-shop). In case that helps to get an answer. It will be a bit tougher than the standard bumper, but after all it appears to me as a standard bumper with extra holes, and in the middle section (between the chassis rails) there´s a piece of "u-shaped" steel (formed like the bumper, but slightly smaller) which is pushed in from behind and welded along the edge of the bumper iron. My research gave the result that some say even the original MOD type bumper is stronger, but certainly designed primarily to have the vehicle with it towed away with a appropriate long "rod" in case of breakdown. Using it for recovery off road my show it´s limits and bend it, being it MOD or aftermarket. I strengthened it by first removing the aforementioned "u-shaped" piece of steel, then welding in 3mm thick steel from behind and in the end welding in again the "u-shape"-steel. I didn´t trust either "brand" of military bumper
  5. Just curious .. I don´t like the extended front panel that the Defender air con models have very much. Would it be possible to set the fron back ? I can imagine that the fans just do need some space. But maybe someone .. I think that there were aftermarket solutions that didn´t need the extended grille ? May not be worth the effort, if possible at all. I not yet have a Defender at hand to have a look, so please excuse me asking.
  6. Do you know, which gearbox will take the 520Nm of the "smallest" N57 ? An automatic gerarbox would be nice then, but I understand there were ZF and GMs, and people had trouble with the latter. If I chose a Petrol version of the BMWs, I recently found a Plug´n´Play solution to replace the original Motronic ECU: http://www.k-data.org/kdfi-1-3.html AFAICS only the M52 or M60 (V8) are of interest. The KDFi box is basically a Megasquirt in a Motronic casing I understand. I now have been assured that I could start with a TD5 and get the emission thing sorted. Same with a 300tdi but not easily. In any case a particl.filter will have to be installed. Still thinking .. it´s hard to assess later running costs and conversion costs vs. time involved. In any case, a new TDV6 oder 3.2l Ford will be too heavy for my pocket.
  7. I´d be allowed to license and drive a car with bad emissions - the tax will rise accordingly. With a Diesel the fear for particle emissions apply and it´s only some cities that cause worries and you couldn´t legally pass them. But it might be I was wrong about the chances to help a TD5 an Euro-Emission level up. (IIRC from our Euro3 to Euro4). That would need considerable $$, but help with all my problems. .... until the people we elect choose to spit out some new regulations out of boredom.
  8. Mission accomplished But what about your ideas concerning engine options. I don´t see I have a chance with the TD5 - though I´ll check it over again. In a nutshell: I do like the Rover V8 but already have one in the family (RRC for myself). No need for another Rover with big thirst. I do like a modest challenge too, that´s why lateral thinking comes into play.
  9. lucky you. Over here (Germany) things are worse, sadly.
  10. trouble is, most of the cities try to improve the air quality by having strategically placed corridors that may only be passed by vehicles which are a) petrol engines with catalysator or b) Diesels with good emission homologization (which even TD5 with cat-upgrade do not comply with). Tax is another point, of course it is really high for old-smokey Diesels. I could somewhat live with that but if you enter the cities where you may not you risk quite some penalties. Only vehicles older that 30years are exempt. I am not quite sure whether we could live with that. ´Afraid, missus will not be amused with confinements like that - as it is (better: will be) a daily driver for her.
  11. Hi, I thought I aked here for encouragement. Starting point is a 90" due for severe TLC and a new engine and gearbox. My first choice would be a 300tdi. But emissions wouldn´t allow me one. A 2.4 or 2.2 TDci Puma could fit. But I fear they are $$ and aren´t there even better options ? I thought about BMW engines. Think I could find them easily. There was this 2.8l 6-cylinder (M52 engine code) which they built in SA. It´s said to be a really good engine and google says everybody who drives one liked it. There even is a successor (code M54) with 3.0l There is this recent article in the LRO (was it LRM) where a 3.0l 6-cyl. biturbo Diesel was dropped into a 110". So anything is possible. But it needn´t be such a powerful machine for me. Though IF going to an "electrified" engine THEN it might as well have power, I think. Even though, money is an issue and it got to be a daily driver afterwards. Has anyone experience with any BMW <> gearbox combinations in a Defender ? Any other recent engine to be advised ? Or just forget about lateral thinking and look for a crashed Ford Transit?
  12. Hi, Snagger - it´s one year since stainless pistons were fitted by you. What´s your experience with them. I once did the same. From Zeus too. They fitted very well and I really don´t think it had to do with them. But after one year I had badly corrosion around the dust seal. Worse than common callipers after many years of service. I think, the s/s pistons are too soft, get scratches very easily and liquid leaks out in small amounts. A mate of mine makes hydraulic cylinders for agricultural machines. Saying, that they sometimes use rods out of stainless steel, but have them hard-chrome-plated then. So, in the end I threw the nice pistons away and used the usual, OEM stuff when rebuilding the callipers. Not that the prime-quality of the replacement pistons made the callipers work forever. First time the pads had to be renewed (for the rear axle that means "after one year" for me) there was pitting and corrosion on the exposed part of the pistons. What can you do other than clean as good as possible and then push them back to drop in the new pad. Therefore I´m quite fed up with the brakes. OEM-new callipers or rebulding the callipers with OEM pistons, or stainless pistons - whatever I did the result was the same. I will now try "cheap callipers" and set my hope on the "guarantee".
  13. Rules are strict, I´m afraid. Pity, I couldn´t make a video last year when a Grand Cherokee almost failed on the very flat spot of a icy road when it towed 4-5 sleighs behind it with a dozen of adults on them. It really was level ground. Half of the "load" had to get off the sleighs and help pushing, which, admittedly didn´t take much effort to get it moving again. Tires were street/summer biased, I guess. Don´t know it gave it an advantage to my MTs - with which I never had any problem last year even with stop-starts on +10% gradients. Both of us had lockers in the axles and permanent 4wd. You cannot imagine how big my smile was. Owner of the Jeep is not among the favourite neighbours.
  14. wish I had done that modification to my diffs. Too late now, I wouldn´t tear it out again until anything fails. Is it typical for a crown wheel to have the teeth damaged all around, and .. only on the inner circumference ? First impression was that there must have been really bad adjustment.
  15. cool project, I read the research with great interest. Fifteen years ago I took a short cut to the problem and used RRC axles. The tubes were cleared from everything that had to do with axle links and coil springs. Then DIY leaf spring mounts were welded to the axle in the correct position - the axle had to be titled to have the (defender-type) track rod clear above the parabolic leaf springs (at full steering lock the track rod made a mark in the thick layer of anti-rust-wax that was on the upper leaf - so not much space between them, but more space wasn´t needed, it never could foul). The somewhat correct the castor, 1ton front spring shackles were used (all round). Only real fab work is needed at the r/h spring u-bolt and the thick plate under the spring (I have no pic, but could make a sketch). So I had modified only parts that are not subject to wear. Brake Parts and axle shafts are easy to replace and to upgrade. Turning circle was really, really enormous, due to the extra track width. Even with 9.00s turning cirlce wouldn´t have be beaten by any other Rover. Only drawback - with reasonable big wheels I needed Defender´s wheel arch extensions - which was aesthetically very tolerable to me; had I confined myself to 205R16-16, I should not have needed them. The 88" I drove all that with behaved very well, I think it directional stability was better than with my lifted RRC.
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