Andy Posted March 8, 2007 Share Posted March 8, 2007 As some of you may recall i started to replace the rings in my disco 200Tdi a few weeks ago. well ive finally carried on with it. pistons are now cleaned up, block is cleaned up, head is cleaned up etc etc etc im ready to hone the bores & stick it all back together. here we come to the problem, i know you hone the bores to remove any glazing. BUT how do you know when they are honed? ie - when do i stop? what am i looking for? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ltwt1981 Posted March 8, 2007 Share Posted March 8, 2007 Nice cross hatch as far as I know. Not to much honing, just enough to remove the glaze. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Se7enUp Posted March 8, 2007 Share Posted March 8, 2007 My tips are: Slow(ish) drill speed and lots of up and down movement. Aim for a 45 degree cross hatch pattern. Use plenty of WD40 during the honing process and then CLEAN CLEAN CLEAN the bores. Use lots of WD40 and a lint free cloth to do this. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy Posted March 8, 2007 Author Share Posted March 8, 2007 cheers for that, matches what ive been told elsewhere. next question - anyone know the tightening squience for the big ends? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Les Henson Posted March 8, 2007 Share Posted March 8, 2007 Not sure what you mean by sequence Andy, as there are just two nuts per big-end. 200TDi big-end cap nuts should be tightened to 59 nm (44 lbft). I would do it in a couple of stages though - say both to 35nm and then both to the final figure. Les. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted March 8, 2007 Share Posted March 8, 2007 This should help [from Defender 200Tdi engine section of workshop manual] @ fig 9 on pic conrod endfloat is 0.15 to 0.356mm 200Tdi_conrod___piston_refit_to_crankshaft.pdf Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy Posted March 8, 2007 Author Share Posted March 8, 2007 i ment sequence as i didnt know if they have several tightening figures or anything. hopefully it'll be back together tomorrow, might even be running. cheers for the info. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gromit Posted March 8, 2007 Share Posted March 8, 2007 i ment sequence as i didnt know if they have several tightening figures or anything. hopefully it'll be back together tomorrow, might even be running.cheers for the info. any change of a pic or 2 of your honing? just out of curiosity. I'm a honed bore virgin. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy Posted March 9, 2007 Author Share Posted March 9, 2007 im a virgin to it as well mate, hence all the questions. if i remember to take the camera with me i'll stick a few pics up. when cleaning the pistons up i found 1-2mm of coke behind the upper rings and about half that on the lower ring. oh plus two broken oil control rings. top of the pistons had a solid 'glaze' of what i assume is SVO under the injector area, should have got pics of that too shouldnt i? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy Posted March 10, 2007 Author Share Posted March 10, 2007 well its together and running again. i suspect most of the poor running was down to two broken glowplugs. they'd spilt between the body & the element. so the combustion gases could leak out through the plug. ahh well we live & learn at she seems to run nice and smooth now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted March 10, 2007 Share Posted March 10, 2007 Well Done Andy, bet you have a nice satisfied feeling after all the hard graft, hope it continues to perform well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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