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I have just done this on my wife's 90. If the washer has fallen off or broken and you are just left with a tube (like I was) the this is what you do. You buy a new washer (about £5) and prise it apart using 2 small flat bladed screw drivers, so that the actual jets are separated from the water tube. You then just tap the new washer part onto the old stub using a nylon hammer. Took me about 10 minutes and it all works fine.

HTH

Ivan

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i tried to prise a new washer jet apart but they dont seem to come apart anymore if you buy the ones from allmakes or britpart .

what i did was to cut off the thread at the " joint " and then drill out the inner bit by bit until i got to the bore of the outer part , it was a 9mm drill which i ended up with to finish the hole off .

once you are down to the edge of the inner tube you can clean or pull it out but do need to be carefull so you retain the actual bore of the "outer jet " and not cut into it .

it is a bit tricky and i bought more than one washer jet in case i messed it up .

i think landrover have changed the parts now but you used to be able to buy both bits , ie the end that "blows off" you could buy replacements .

the new style jets are made the same and made in 2 parts but i think they have a little adhesive put in them on assembly .

best to replace them when weather is not freezing otherwise you may crack the bit you are knocking onto the stub .

if you look on the stub on the car youll see it has a ring around it for locating the outer jet part , this is where [as the guy above said] you knock it on with a small mallet .

i think the washer pumps are a bit more powerfull now and so when the jet end gets blocked with ice and the water warms in the pipe, it will blow the frozen end off .

you dont need to remove and unscrew the stub thats sticking out of the car itself unless it is actually brocken .

the stub will normally have a step showing in it plus the small ring around its outside of the tube halfway down it , this step is not a breakage but is where the water shoots round 90degs in the jet head .

the rear washer jet is the same kind of thing and heads are interchangeable with fronts but the mounting threads are shorter on the rear washer jets .

if you have any problems then pour some hot water over the rear jet head and pull it off and use for front temporarily until you can perfect the art of removing the outer from newly bought jets .

cheers .

ian

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I don't recall it being a paticually hard or long-winded job.

You may have to unscrew the centre console and/or radio housing but when you have removed the grab-handle (N/S) and the heater controls (O/S) and unscrewed the top-rail surely it just lifts up giving all the access you require?

One tip I thoroughly recomened is replacing the two single nozzles (early vehicles) or single twin-jet nozzle (later vehicles) with a pair of the later twin units. The holes already exists in the bulkhead, the nozzles cost about £5 each as a genuine part, they double the amount of water hitting the screen and the standard pump is more than up to the job.

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Litch --- One tip I thoroughly recomened is replacing the two single nozzles (early vehicles) or single twin-jet nozzle (later vehicles) with a pair of the later twin units. The holes already exists in the bulkhead, the nozzles cost about £5 each as a genuine part, they double the amount of water hitting the screen and the standard pump is more than up to the job.

done that to my 110, much better with 4 jets of screen cleaning fluid now.

post-20-1205670381_thumb.jpg

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Good photo, shows it better than I could explain it.

Luckily all the holes are already there as LR use the same bulkhead for RHD & LHD markets and they are just blanked off with rubber grommits, worth considering as it really makes a difference while still using standard parts.

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