Marks 110

Well i've now got 2 gauges, one is brand new and they both show the same. Have also wired it seperatly taking a live and earth direct from the battery and running a new wire to the sender. Same result. I'd like to get a different gauge showing actual temp though to confirm its overheating removing the head. Any recommendations?

Have bought long lengths of window channel for about 3 quid in the past at landrover shows and cut it to size

Sounds similar but it never used to run hot. For the first 6 years the gauge stayed at 1/3 and never moved at all. Now the gauge will nearly touch the red when driven flat out (80 m.p.h) on motorway. Maybe I need to find a way to measure the temp more accurately (digital gauge?). It certainly spoils the driving experience when the gauge looks like its going into the red at any minute.

Have tried that but found it hard to measure temp accurately. However I've tried 3 different stats, two britpart and one genuine and they all give the same result

Yep it was fitted right way up! When i looked closely It said top on the top!

Just been for a run wirh no thermostat in. Engine took a bit longer to warm up as you'd expect but temp was at halfway after only 4 miles. Gauge then went up to just after halfway and stayed there, running cooler than with the stat in. To me the engine must be creating too much heat to be at halfway after 4 miles with no stat in, Would you agree? Its just been idling on the drive for 15 mins after the run and temp is still rock solid just past halfway and I haven't even got the fan fitted! Should I run without the stat? One other thing a bit of black smoke only under full throttle? Would be interested If you have any comments Mark

I just got standard high tensile bolts M10x130 IIRC and turned a nice pointy end on the bench grinder. Funnily enough I've just thrown some in the scrap bin five minutes ago, (found them whilst looking for something else) they were old ones which were in place when a mate crashed my 110 4 years ago. Although they are now shaped like a banana they withstood the impact. The bumper and A-Bar were crushed like they were made of tin foil!

Would the oil light come on in this case? Just wondering if the oil passageways could be blocked. Worth trying an engine oil flush?

Sorry what do you mean by 'right way round'? Is it possible to fit it upside down? Have taken a few readings with an infra red temperature gauge and the surface temp of the top hose near the stat is in the mid nineties so i suspect the coolant temp is a bit higher than this at the sender. Water coming through the bottom hose is approx 25 degrees less than the corresponding position on the top hose. However obviosly I have only tested this at standstill when there isn't a lot or airflow through rad.

Just had the sniffer test done and the result was negative - no combustion gases apparent in the coolant however as the guy said this doesn't confirm that the head and gasket are good. He suggested taking the head off and getting it pressure tested which I think I might do for peace of mind. Do I risk it and head off to france in couple of weeks time or spend the next few evenings replacing a head gasket and checking the head which may be ok? Either way I'm determined to find out whats causing the problem, I'd rather not find out in the middle of france though! By the way Les where do you usually get your gaskets from?

Yeah I've changed the stat to a britpart one and have now replaced that with a genuine landrover item, still no difference. It could well be a restriction in the coolant passages within the head or block but I'm not sure how to flush it out. I've already used a flushing chemical and connected a hose to the heater connections on the head and to be honest it ran pretty clear. I suppose the best way is to take the head off? Have you come across this problem of poorly manufactured gaskets. It was a cheapish one from Paddocks.

You might be right, lets hope so! I don't seem to be loosing any coolant. But the strange thing is the temp goes well over halfway after only a mile or two of driving. I don't see how it could be the rad as the thermostat will still be closed then. To my mind the fact that the engine is getting hot this quickly points to engine problems rather than a faulty cooling system. In the past the engine would take 15 mins or so to get up to this temp?

Local garage suggested doing a 'sniffer' test by adding a chemical to the coolant which changes colour if it mixes with combustion gases. He said he would only charge a fiver so I'll get that done as soon as I get chance.

When you say pressure tested do you mean a cylinder leakdown test, compression test, cooling system pressure test or something else?

Sorry, I've changed so many bits I forgot to say I'd also changed the sender unit!

When you say get it tested do you mean a compression test? It doesn't seem to be using any coolant

Its the original defender engine

Hi all Still suffering with overheating problems with my 200tdi, temp gauge goes virtually into red and sitting 2/3-3/4 of the way across gauge. Have replaced gauge, wiring, water pump, thermostat and expansion tank cap. I also flushed the system and removed the rad to inspect it. Seems fine externally and was recored 4 years ago so I am reluctant to replace it but running out of other ideas. I will also try new rad hoses although I doubt this is the problem. Head gasket was replaced six months ago and it has been running hot ever since and also just before the gasket went pop, it blew between a cylinder and one of the coolant passageways where the head had corroded slightly. Head was skimmed to hopefully cure this. Any ideas on what to try next? Due to take the 110 to france in a couple of weeks! Cheers mark

I had similar symptoms. My temp gauge which had always been rock steady started to go slightly further towards the red. A few weeks after this started the head gasket gave up the only other warning sign was excessive pressure in the cooling system. Mark

Hi there Wondered if anyone can help I changed the front output flange and oil seal on my transfer box (110 200tdi) yesterday to try and cure a persistant oil leak. I now have no drive, the transfer lever doesn't appear to select high or low but it will select diff lock. I've just taken the transmission tunnel off and diconnected the rod to force the selector into position but it has made no difference. I don't know if this has anything to do with it but the new output flange was slightly different. When I tightened it up with the original thin metal seal cover it locked soild so I had to loosen it off and omit the cover. The overall length of the flange is the same as the original though and it now turns freely Cheers mark

Will check engine temp with my infra red thermometer next time I'm out in the 110. I guess I just aim it next to the temp sender? Will be interesting to see what the temp is and how it corresponds on the gauge. Mark

I was thinking of swaping to vented disks once the present ones have worn out, especially after experiencing brake fade a couple of times on long descents in the alps and pyrenees. I've never heard of fitting spacers, I thought I would have to replace the calipers as well. Are these a standard landrover part? Mark

Any idea where 88 degrees would register on the standard gauge?

Could the coolant passageways have become restricted with corrosion or other debris? Did you use the same pump? Mark

My temp gauge is also reading to the extreme right of the white band with original temp gauge and sender fitted although the original thermostat has been replaced. (200tdi 110) Rad was re-cored about three years ago and is in good condition too. When I first got the vehicle the temp stayed only a quarter of the way on the gauge but I can't quite remenber when the reading changed but I presume it was after fitting the new stat. I'm beginning to wonder whether the original thermostat was an 82 degree. The temp seems to be steady but it looks to be too close to the red for comfort. I'm wondering if its worth trying the 82 degree stat? Mark