bodumatau
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Posts posted by bodumatau
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i replaced my LT77 with a R380
110 2,5D NA which was converted to V8 efi early in its life.
with the R380 box came a long bell housing so my Bellhousing/gearbox length stayed the same, then it was a straight swop.
same gearbox mounts for both gearboxes (as mentioned in previous posts more of a transfer case mount than a gearbox mount.)
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Hi David
mine measures up to about the same as yours
see attached the pic of my engine mount, from underneath the middle of the engine mount approximately lines up with the rear mounting bolts of the axle rubber bump stop.
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I have heard of props getting jammed if the slip joint has too much grease but never seen it happen.
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basically a U channel upside down that goes from the firewall mounting bolts to the back bulkhead. if you have station wagon or crew cab the B post bolts onto (or I think is welded on) to this channel.
DONT mount your rock slider onto this channel, it is only about a 2mm thick, 25x40mm (thumbtack) channel, you slide one rock mounted on that channel and your door won't open anymore. rather pull angle iron or similar off your chassis outriggers.
the numpty's I bought my V8 from had the wonderful idea of welding angle iron to the chassis (YAY!! joy!!) which I then had to cut off and clean up VERY nicely so the TÜV didn't have a wobble...
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the back face of the LT230 is about 260mm from the closer lip of the cross member that goes over the rear prop shaft.
sorry you can't see the measurement but at least you can see from where I have measured.
from back face of LT230 to middle of gearbox mount is aprox 205mm
front propshaft is approximately 665mm long
if you need any further measurements or more accurate let me know and I will try get them for you.
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this is the length of my bell housing, aprox 285mm.
and the gearbox is about 385mm. (from where the bell housing bolts onto it)
note that this is a R380 gearbox but they are the same length.
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ok this is what my gearbox mountings look like, both left and right.
basically the bolt on the mounting lines up approximately with the bottom bolt that goes thru the chassis on the 3 bolts that make a triangle on your chassis.
left side
right side -
let me crawl around under mine and I will send you some measurements and images....
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Are you sure your engine will clear the firewall if it sits 2 inches back?
I have an efi V8 in mine which was once a 2.5 NA diesel, is also had the LT77 with a long bellhousing and my engine sits in the right place.
I might be mistaken but looking at your pics your rear gearbox to chassis mounts also seem further back.... Can it be as ash-Whitty suggested that you have the wrong set of gearbox to chassis mounts for your setup?
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yes the heat getting radiated is your goal though,
It is not the hot air radiated into your engine compartment that causes the engine to overheat but rather the inability of your radiator to get rid of the engines internal heat. the heat radiated into your engine compartment irritates because it makes you boil in the cab and get burnt legs where you touch the bodywork.
most common cause of overheating is a sticky thermostat, gummed up radiator or gummed up water galleries, or even faulty gauges that lies to you and your engine is in fact NOT overheating.
if in doubt pull your thermostat and test it without... if you overheating problem goes away then you know it was the thermostat.
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is it not just part of the Land Rover automatic lubrication system ?
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more water cannot be worse, only better, the larger your radiator the more surface area you have and the more effective it is.
have you tried taping your downpipes and Y piece, I have found this saves a lot of heat that usually gets transmitted into the cab and onto gearbox etc.
I know the tape is going to end up a mess but it really takes a lot of heat away.
an oil cooler could also make a big difference.
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silly question, would it not be a lot more effective just removing the rubber seal at the back of the bonnet?
only a small gap of maybe 10mm but over a length of 150cm adds up.
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ok sorry, must have gotten confused about the driving Td5 story.
I have disks on back I just think my pedal requires more force than it should to brake effectively.
but now that I know which servo to refer to i can order the bits.!
thanks
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VERY important, learned this from an old greybeard, if you intend on towing in a hilly terrain with a land rover that doesn't have a V8 in (I can hear the ****storm coming now already from this comment!!).... then it is imperative to cut cardboard pieces that cover the front lights and stick them on firmly.
this way your landy cannot see the hill coming and will not slow down in advance...... giving you a better fighting chance on the hills..
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Western, thanks for the pics and info, I have another question about brakes that arises from another post you made.
you said you drive a Td5 90 for work, are the brakes on the Td5 noticeably sharper (is the brake pedal softer to press?) than on your 110?
my Td5's are in Bots and my old V8 in Germany and I definitely think the V8 brake pedal is MUCH harder to press and get the same effect as the Td5
I know the TD5 will have the newer vented disks and surely will brake better but I don't think the brake pedal force should be much higher?
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Low box is a good plan, and get your gear right before the downhill, not when you can't brake it anymore..
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thanks western, so this looks like the correct page to be on
mine is "upside down", assuming that is because mine is LHD? workings should be the same though?
silly questions but rather ask than muddle.
thanks
Heiko
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it will easily tow 5+ tonnes, have towed a Merc Unimog over 1000km on a towbar, as mentioned the previous post stopping is the problem.....luckily we rigged a pipe to the compressor in the landy for brakes.... had to be careful though, the little compressor could not produce enough air for repeated brake attempts so had to slow right down when the pressure in the mog started dropping... young and stupid..... the things you do
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I am trying to figure out which brake booster I have on my LHD 1983, 110
was a 2.5 NA diesel which was later converted to V8efi.
I can hear a slight hissing when I switch off and I assume the vacuum is not being held properly.
need to know how to take the vacuum hose and fitting off as I think the leak is there.
how far can these boosters be taken apart and refurbished?
here some pics.
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yes 130 springs with helper on rear will make a big difference. just make sure you re-inforce the rear spring hanger similarly to how the 130 is done.
also check your chassis on the left side just in front of the bid cross member that carries the ball joint, if the 110 has been working hard there will be a crack that develops at the top of the chassis and works its way down in a fish hook type shape till it is all the way thru the chassis, is comes from the axle beating the chassis like a 200 pound hammer.
anti roll bars will also help the springs help each other and reduce axle strike.
here some pics of how we modify our spring hangers and chassis to stop it cracking.
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Td5 have the locating cups welded in, irritating as hell cause they wear out...
most washers are interchangeable, the limiting factor is whether the bush fits the washer and its locating cup and whether the stud on the shock is long enough for the thickness of the bush.
what I have done with my fleet of TD5's is to cut off the locating cups and weld on a 10mm piece of steel pipe with an ID that fits the most commonly available shock bushes, this way we toss the washers, the bushes remain located (important so that your shock stud doesn't saw thru the mounting bracket) and we don't struggle with stud length.
we also have double shocks fitted to all our rear axles and this makes an Enourmous difference to a heavily loaded land rover.
we have moved away from all the "special off road" shocks as they all end up self destructing in only a little longer time than the el-cheapo aftermarket ones...
but all of the above is also a tailored solution to keeping a fleet of ladies running in Botswana where spares are not readily available and need to be fixable in the bush... with what the vehicle spares market in botswana has to offer.
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so yesterday I tried out some petrol on the contact glue, and it worked great.... till I figured out that the madman who glued his cream coloured reindeer to my dash had a trick or two up his sleeve, !!! he used different kinds of glue!!!! so once I hit the "tough stuff" the petrol ran out of steam and was no more or less effective than the acetone..... so i decided to go with acetone. which seems to work well as long as the cloth is really wet with acetone (first 30 seconds after soaking) and till it gets bunged up with contact glue snot. 2 clearest advantages of acetone is that it smells MUCH better than petrol and you get stoned much quicker..... by the end of doing the bottom part of my dash bent down in the footwell I was a happy child, giggling at my own jokes.....
so my tips for removing contact are.....
Step 1. use LOTS of acetone,
Step 2. keep moving to a fresh piece of cloth,
DONT try and drive or do anything clever after step 1 and 2
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and you are 100% sure you are not feeling your rear ball joint or something coming from the rear, knocks can be very deceptive...
I find getting someone to shake the vehicle heftily laterally while being in the pit under the vehicle and putting my hand or fingers over any parts that might move gets me the best results.
what also works is using a "mechanics" stethoscope, put a long screwdriver on the part you think it knocking and push your ear against it, do this on a few different spots and you quickly hear where exactly the knock is coming from.
sorry if I am stating the obvious but these tips have helped me in the past.
Sleepy Td5
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
Posted
so my td5 crew cab seems to always be very unresponsive when i start her up in the morning almost as if she doesn't have a turbo (which points me toward the airflow sensor) and then after irritating me sufficiently (after 2-3 minutes) she starts pulling nicely.
any tips or ideas where to look to start fixing this?
2001 Td5
EGR has been bypassed
everything else pretty standard.