vougese39
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Posts posted by vougese39
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stick with genuine bushs had a customer very recently who had had polybush fitted the car drove dreadfully and suffered tramlining and general lack of staright line stability when all the suspension bushs were loosened and retesed it drove fine i replaced with gen on the whole vehicle and it rides really nice supprised me as i have always pushed the polybush as the upgrade to do!
dont take both arms out at a time as the air bag could pop due to excess axle movement!
if you are doing the radius arms do the panhard rod bushs at the same time you will be amazed of the improvement
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that is the basic alarm unit you have a fault inside but it can be bypassed the alarm will still work when you lock it with thew door key! removing it will stop the cdl from working too
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well done!
one of my customers vehicles has the same problem but would not belive me it was the engine loom failing so will point this out and order a loom for him cheers
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if you have ap38a with a warped head then have them skimed and pressure tested as a pair and skimmed the same as a pair.
have the block inspected could be a porus block problem and you would be wasting the money now and not having it checked before refiting use a good quality gasket kit i normaly charge around the 800+vat and that usualy includes the skim and crack test on both heads expect a worn cam as well as it is a good time to inspect too
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get the ecu fault read it could be a comp fault piston seal worn out,thermal cut out failure, height sensor,pressure switch
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didnt realise that arnott offered the gen3 for a classic only the gen2 and they were specail order only with limited stock when i went for mine thats why i fitted gen 2 from a p38a
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ok guys please email me with info and i will let you know prices the practices ones and molds are being made to try out over christmas hopefully cheers
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ive got two a 100" and a lse soft dash
when they launched the d1 what land rover saved on production cost made the profit in the classic more so they employed the cheap metal thus most disco's and all classics from 1990 onwards were made from carp steel
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it would be worth gettting the ecu read i have done a few software upgrades on the system which are out to fix these faults
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could not agree more currently begining to build a 90 for the fast land rover comp using one of my 5.2 engines done to the max so will be intresting don't have to worry about insurance as i have a traders policy too!
as for power and killing somebody my range rover has 250 bhp with no ill effects to the brakes or suspension.
i have also fitted a 4.6 hi comp hi out put race engine to a d2 running new but standard brakes and suspension again with no ill effects!
in all the time i have worked on land rover i have only seen one overfinched classic with uprated brakes most just had new discs and pads fitted
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lamp cluster sections are being moulded as we speak bonnet and tailgate are next then front and rear wings! all parts will be made from marine grade glass fibre so whould be flame retardant too just for safety
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thanks very much
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it is the lower one not the top one sorry if that has caused any confusion
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brake pad warning light low pads
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I have ideas for conversion of my RR from 3.5=>4.6
My research shows that I'll need engine and 3.9 electric installation with a modified ECU.
ECR have made a lot of conversions like that - http://www.eastcoastrover.com/Richardson.html
you can use the 14cux injection ecu with no problems to start with. same some money on a modified ecu.
what do you mean by you coment bowie?
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you will need to replace the shocks as they are not valved for coil springs.
on a lse riding on coils very poor ride compared to air
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I HAVE ONE FOR SALE FROM A CUSTOMER I FITTED A NEW RECONDITIONED ENGINE EALIER THIS YEAR AND WILL HONOUR THE WARRANTY LEFT ON IT
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bonnet and tailgate will be going to my mold man next month so should have a working example by the end of november sorry that it looks like it could take some time but will carry on please mail me for an update cheers
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looks like the fountain of v8 knowledge that is p76 has not got a clue you stick to reading des hamil v8 books and sprouting carp and leave the correct info giving to others!
you strike me a quite a pedantic sole just itching for an argument or is it just to miss inform people?
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I can buy a new block from Land Rover for half that money, so my statement stands.
what and fit a substand block back in thats a sound aproach not!
block from land rover genuine bare or a short motor? shorts are going for nearly £1800+ vat then with all the aprts not getting much change out of 3k are you?
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pe8a petrol or diesel or l322 again petrol or diesel?
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If it is a liner, basically find another block. This is usually cheaper that having top hat liners fitted. You will need to replace all the liners, maybe pistons as well.
There has been much debate over the years as to what causes a liner to start moving. It is probably evenly divided to poor machining when the motor was built to overheating. I lean more to poor machining as it seems to affect certain motors more than others.
slipped linner deffo put money on it as for the statment above what a load of carp!
too of my customers recently had second hand engines fitted at garages for over 3k with engines i can bebuild and fit for less if most parts are good and can be reused and give a 12 month warranty too!!!!
there are very little good used blocks out there now
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That happened in 94 while the 3.9 was still being produced. But 14 bolt heads can readily be used on 10 bolt blocks without any issues.
yes but the heads are 30" bigger thus a very low compression engine not a high comp as the newer one is
but if you skim 30" off the old heads then you have the same spec as new heads simple!
me personaly top hat linner the block new cam swap the front cover off the old engine and away you go i would stick with 14 cux
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you can tap the motor out of the body fit it to the end plate then refit and then the crank not easy
Gauging interest for fibreglass RRC panels
in Range Rover Forum
Posted
to all those who have mailed me thanks and sorry i have not o bak toall of you update the molds are taking longer than expected to produce the hardest problem which i did not understand is using a perfect item to make the mold from and imperfection in the original will be transfered on to the mold then on to the new paret making more down time on perfecting the imperfections and as i would like these to be a near straight bolt on afair for people has lead to a remake of the molds which we are curently doing i am hoping to have a few pre production items ready for the lro show in september. as with most things the idea sounded good the practical.
if people have some good used panels with little or no rust to use for making the patternes it would greatly help.
i do not think a door skin can be reproduced it would be hard to make it stick as the original skins are glued and crimpedto the door frame
cheers guys i will keep you posted