-
Posts
309 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Gallery
Blogs
Posts posted by vougese39
-
-
as the battery may have not been full charged the ecu shut down some systems you will proberly need the ecu's reading and fault clearing and road testing and retesting
-
or look at it the other way the springs are made of rubber and wear out anything over 10 years on original parts is dam good! me personaly you can either pick a set of springs off ebay and a comp overhaul kit and have a bash yourself or get sombody else to do it for you. ask to have the suspension recalibrated once they have changed the bags if all goes well it will save you having the height sensors being changed for the mean time.
depending on the garage budget for around 2-4 hours at there lab rate and the parts
-
most coman is the switch has failed if it was a blocked oil cooler or a faulty oil pump you would have no drive.
did a full service on my 49lse the other day ran it to cornwall with the light on all the way tested it in cornwall switch was stuck took it out tapped it with a hammer been fine since
-
that is very true but as they say when trying to hard the simple things are missed. ah the pleasure of the the alternator job takes me back what a load of croak last one i did was so far melted it was just a molten mass scrap!!!
-
firstly go back to the repairer and explain they have not cured the fault and it is worse than before and see what they are going to do
-
it is only available on the land rover global refference web site cost £9 odd for 24 hours access give you the lattest techfiles and upto date info not seen it anywhere else you can print what you need
-
remove the gearlever and check the yoke is not loose,take the t box output cover off and look at the splines, if all is ok then suspect the clutch has failed at a guess
-
oil leak form oil filter housing
over heating blown rads,blown header tanks.
colapsed breather hoses causing poor running overheating head gasket issues.
-
all the ecu read and store faults without having them read you are just shooting in the dark trying things and as the l322 is a complicated electronicaly it is best to start with a ecu fault read
-
very coman on the d2 v8 is the slipped linner problem done 5 engines so far stripoped and top hat linners cures the fault with the heads off look at the linners if they are level with the block ok if it has dropped slightly then it is the problem though usualy it chomps though the head gasket as well.
on a point of caution there is a very poor quality rocker arms and followers coming out of land rover at the moment due to britpart now being them main parts supplier to lr so quality at a al time low!
-
remove and check the rest of the bulbs on the unit there are three i think they are 1.3 wats so could upgrade to a 2 watt
-
my customer has had another rad and i have pressure tested the system over quite a few hours running and driving tand the system never reached more than .9 bar 14ish psi the whole time so we have assumed that the rad is at fault so at the moment i can only think that we have been supplied a cheap made rad so have spoken to a friend at land rover and they have no rad issues so we have fitted a gen rad over a cheapo will keep you posted
-
well guys
Had it to a LR specialist mainly does P38's and done pressure tests and its the head gaskets, also water coming out the exhaust.
apparently pressurising pretty much straight away.
Quoted me 600 to do the heads oil change and guarante. does this sound reasonable? also said he would do timing chain, crank shaft oil seal and sterring damper for an extra 300.
carl
why do the timing chain and not the cam and followers while there?
-
part of the problem which leads to a frozen system is lack of servicing once a year atleast drain the air tank to remove mositure replace both the filter on the comp and if it is quite a old one then just check the air springs for leaking.
i have been out to 3 frozen systems in the last 2 weeks one was full of water and a classic which had had it's filter removed and not refitted comp full and the air bags he had water leveling suspension
-
chrome effect was never a option so they have been done sparkle silver was the original colour
-
don't forget you will also have a dim dip relay too bolted to the top of the colum under the dash
-
injector failures coman poor stating when cold glow plugs and the glow relay fail as well.
low pressure pumps and high pressure pumps too
suspension leaks rear springs
front suspension arm ball joints very coman
rear suspension ball joints and hub carrier bushs very coman
uneven tyre wear
eats brakes
electronicaly steering colum failure new colum
ecu glitchs on the latter models they can be downloaded to fix
heater fan resisters failure very coman
engine faults turbo failure
auto gear box failure
heavy breathing engine breather failure
-
get the ecu fault read as it could be a soft ware issue if it has a fault it will also help in diagnosing the fault
-
don't know where you get the mule from the last classics are really a disco 1 300 series
-
you could have a failed screen which is the more coman problem have the hevac ecu fault tested if it has a fault with the system it can also be forced to work and show a fault too
-
on the 200 and 300 d1 i always replace the pivot/release bearing guide as these wear with ridges and the bearing judders going back and forth this judder and lack of grease coupled with a worn pivot ball all contribute to the accelerated wear and failure
-
where to start valve stem seals, piston rings, worn turbo, oil breather blocked, turbo and intercooler full of oil try a comp test to see what the state is would also advise a fotre engine flush and seal additive if it stops the smoke then you will know it is a head rebuild time
-
i would fit a webasto cab heater disconnect the heater matrix from the car and fun it to the cab heater
-
can be done in around 2-3 hours on your back drain the oil whip off the front prop undo the output flange nut 30mm socket
then the series of 15mm head bolts tap the housing out it all comes usualy find the out put flange is stud locked to the viscous splines! suppout the housing and bag the viscous spline on the out flange then clean the seal surfaces fit new viscous and ad silcone selaer and refit in reverse simple don't forget the new oil
Clutch pedal woes - 300tdi
in Discovery Forum
Posted
it could be the fork has began to wear though the pivot point, air in the system, worn leaking slave cylinder, try bleeding it first and see what happens