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vougese39

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Posts posted by vougese39

  1. or look at it the other way the springs are made of rubber and wear out anything over 10 years on original parts is dam good! me personaly you can either pick a set of springs off ebay and a comp overhaul kit and have a bash yourself or get sombody else to do it for you. ask to have the suspension recalibrated once they have changed the bags if all goes well it will save you having the height sensors being changed for the mean time.

    depending on the garage budget for around 2-4 hours at there lab rate and the parts

  2. very coman on the d2 v8 is the slipped linner problem done 5 engines so far stripoped and top hat linners cures the fault with the heads off look at the linners if they are level with the block ok if it has dropped slightly then it is the problem though usualy it chomps though the head gasket as well.

    on a point of caution there is a very poor quality rocker arms and followers coming out of land rover at the moment due to britpart now being them main parts supplier to lr so quality at a al time low!

  3. my customer has had another rad and i have pressure tested the system over quite a few hours running and driving tand the system never reached more than .9 bar 14ish psi the whole time so we have assumed that the rad is at fault so at the moment i can only think that we have been supplied a cheap made rad so have spoken to a friend at land rover and they have no rad issues so we have fitted a gen rad over a cheapo will keep you posted

  4. well guys

    Had it to a LR specialist mainly does P38's and done pressure tests and its the head gaskets, also water coming out the exhaust.

    apparently pressurising pretty much straight away.

    Quoted me 600 to do the heads oil change and guarante. does this sound reasonable? also said he would do timing chain, crank shaft oil seal and sterring damper for an extra 300.

    carl

    why do the timing chain and not the cam and followers while there?

  5. part of the problem which leads to a frozen system is lack of servicing once a year atleast drain the air tank to remove mositure replace both the filter on the comp and if it is quite a old one then just check the air springs for leaking.

    i have been out to 3 frozen systems in the last 2 weeks one was full of water and a classic which had had it's filter removed and not refitted comp full and the air bags he had water leveling suspension

  6. injector failures coman poor stating when cold glow plugs and the glow relay fail as well.

    low pressure pumps and high pressure pumps too

    suspension leaks rear springs

    front suspension arm ball joints very coman

    rear suspension ball joints and hub carrier bushs very coman

    uneven tyre wear

    eats brakes

    electronicaly steering colum failure new colum

    ecu glitchs on the latter models they can be downloaded to fix

    heater fan resisters failure very coman

    engine faults turbo failure

    auto gear box failure

    heavy breathing engine breather failure

  7. on the 200 and 300 d1 i always replace the pivot/release bearing guide as these wear with ridges and the bearing judders going back and forth this judder and lack of grease coupled with a worn pivot ball all contribute to the accelerated wear and failure

  8. where to start valve stem seals, piston rings, worn turbo, oil breather blocked, turbo and intercooler full of oil try a comp test to see what the state is would also advise a fotre engine flush and seal additive if it stops the smoke then you will know it is a head rebuild time

  9. can be done in around 2-3 hours on your back drain the oil whip off the front prop undo the output flange nut 30mm socket

    then the series of 15mm head bolts tap the housing out it all comes usualy find the out put flange is stud locked to the viscous splines! suppout the housing and bag the viscous spline on the out flange then clean the seal surfaces fit new viscous and ad silcone selaer and refit in reverse simple don't forget the new oil

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