vougese39
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Posts posted by vougese39
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as the stero is a major intergrated part of the vehicle i would get the unit reconed for the cost and having the vehicle reqired for a new gen unit it is abig expence
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get the ecu fault read
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td5 diff is a of a lesser quality to the rrc diff and is a different axle which will need quite a bit of modding
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buy the spring direct from arnott or p38a spares here on ebay uk.
i have the gen2 fitted to my classic with 18" rims the ride is firmer but excellent handeling blows my mates l322 in the bends me personaly for the cost gen 2 over gen3
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the window switch packs do fail but have the ecu tested and a forced op to confirm the switchs work
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drivers seat and the mirors will proberly be the under seat ecu battery failed and corroded the circut board for the seat memeory, blower fan will be the heater fan resister or the motor and the cdl will be one or all the motors failed
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any movement is not good if you are unsure remove the block and seek a very good engineer shop who should be able to test the cooling system and check the linners for leaks normaly when they slip they chomp at the head gasket fire ring. also a knocking when the engine is running cn be heard usualy half engine speed just had a block relinnered for a customer £1750 with a balanced crank rods and pistons and flywheel.
as for the coolant issue that can happeren even if the linner has not slipped
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no pit falls done it myself may years ago with a 110 v8 fitted a disco unit props mated up just need to blank off the vac take of for the diff lock
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to gues what unit you have does the bottom of the t box have a flat inspection plate and is the drain bung a 17mm head bolt if so then you have a lt230 transfere box. if you have two 1/2" bungs then you have a b/w t box
yes you can fit a disco t box
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there was also a modified switch to go with the download too but if they have been done 99% new pump
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as the basic d2 shell is loosly based on the range rover classic then it would be a straight swap and a little shortening of the rear chassis as for the suspension it is total different due to the axles being wider and the radius arms are mounted front and rear out board of the chassis on atotaly different bracket setup to the d1 the rear is located by a watts linkage to improve rear axle location and stability as for the sva it would be still classed as a d2 with a four door body
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get the ecu fault read first to see if there is a idle valve fault or another sensor or you have a air leak is it on gas?
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i charge 40 pence a mile and £35.00 to do the job
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i would be inclined to run the car with a good diagnostic tester connected showing thew ecu outputs and see what is afiling to help diagnose the fault
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sounds like a dirsty/sticking stepper motor i would remove and clean and reset the base idle
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check the interia switch as it may have tripped otherwise it is a wiring fault. hit it with a hammer till you hear it buz then reset it and retry.
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another point is that usualy the base idle setting needs retunning which should also be done every time the stepper motor is moved and the housing cleaned.
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any thing is possible i would just do a body swap aim for a late soft dash range rover and you could have all the d2 and the classic body even less problems with the electrics then as it realy is 300 series parts with newer electronics
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as the vehicle is a closed loop emission it is preordaned to how it runs by the ecu map there is no manual adjustment of fuel as the ecu is a generic it adpts to the increase in air flow to richen
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drain is in the tank under the drivers side. the air dryer is the canister next to the air box under the bonnet
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i would go for the deflex kit it is what i have on my 94 clasic on air and the ride is excellent
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Would you be willing to quote for the Job ??
Is there any reason to do the cam and followers ??
please email me at armsonae@yahoo.co.uk with your details and i will contact you cheers
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as for the boaty ride this is proberly due to the suspension system being worn as the springs have become hard and proberly have worn shocks as well
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at a guess you do not have a spare remote? proberly a failed remote or are the batterys in the wrong way round!? you will need a new remote if that is the case go direct to land rover and they will order them for you and just need to be coded in by testbook or another diag kit
L322 Wheel nuts
in Range Rover Forum
Posted
i would stick with the black ones for the l322 the thread is ok