vougese39
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Posts posted by vougese39
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stick with a v8 rover easy to maintain plenty of parts and can make good power when built properly
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on paper the vm is the better engine but in prctise it is a problem waiting to boil up cook the heads and leave you in the carp, but having said that i have had a couple of really nice ones and have out done the 200 tdi brothers easily.
i call it the herby effect every now and then a real gen goes though rest of the time its a pile of poo
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original dealer cap leads and rotor will not go a miss new plugs and retest.
so many times the simple bits are missed for being over complicated
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I love my 300TDi
- i'll not annoy you V8 disciples any further! Well, OK then....Manual with a R380 - 33-35mpg.
Ashcroft rebuilt Auto: 29-33mpg
With horsebox -
Now, if someone were to tell me I could get a L322 V8 oil burner in my RRC, i'd be happy to be getting 10-12mpg for that sort of torque!
and they smoke and have no go v8 is a way of life and how you can compare a under powered smkoe burner to a nicely tunned runing v8 is beyond me
my mpg 24 on a run 18 round town 8 on a thrash and worth every penny at the pumps and with 250 bhp easy on the ear too
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Hi James,
I'm restoring a 2 door 1981 RRC and looking for grp rear wings (LH and RH).
Kind regards,
Peejee
is it the whole wing or the rear lamp clusters?
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check the earth is ok to the engine from the starter
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1,3,5,7 is o/s of the car 2,4,6,8 is pass side standing at the front who's leads did you use and what plugs and gaps.
whistle normaly means air leak
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they look to be ready to need changing anything over 8 years old is pretty good for standard bags i got ten years out of mine but they had gone hard and gave very poor quality ride i fitted p38a arnott gen2 springs to my classic well worth the money!
if you want to make the bags last longer drop it to access at nite that way the cracking will not be in the normal ride height position and will be eaier to detect and as the bags are being rolled up and down will keep them more supple to.
lastly always replace as pairs same as doing normal coil springs and shocks
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de egr, kenlowe fan, jeremy fern intercooler, silocone hoses, then map it and a decat pipe plenty can be done but all these together makes for a very good motor though to be honest if you want real grunt fit a v8!
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and a word of caution i had my classic done a few years ago and at the time the tint limit on the front was 30% was stopped by the police(scum bag note else to do) and when they tested was found to be 30.1% got a fixed penelty asked where the 10% was and told not 10% only cost me £30 for the fine and 40 for new window tint 25% lol never been stopped since
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i have testbook £8k but i was dealer trained on it so easy to use
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first start is a worn viscous unit or chain in the t box if after changing these it is still there investigate the diffs been though 5 cars and know always start at the centre and work out on the p38a the diffs arnt good but neither is the t box usualy it is the chain but have has one with a worn gearbox mainshaft splines
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get the ecu read for faults proberly blend motors do the heater orings while you are there as well as it is stripped out for the same job time wise can all be done 5 hours you will need to get the blend motors recalibrated after fitting don't bother with second hand been there 5 times for one guy and still he buys used units with what it has cosat him gen new ones and he would be quids in!
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no ealry ones have opposed shock mountings and a different gearbox crosss member latter ones have a different gearbox cross member and rear facing shocks apart from that nothing else as far as i know
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form a safety point of veiw you should always disconnect the ecu i have had a transfere box ecu fry just from reconnecting the battery but as the motor was fubar unbeknown to me at the time i was left in the dog poo! seen quite a few ecu fried over the years by not disconecting and on a p38a even more need to disconect
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you are correct the flywheel you have bought id for the thor not gens speak to the seller and demand a refund or a gems unit!
many of the breaking in the uk don't know the difference when breaking and just sumise it fits all! been in this position plenty of times with customers who source there own parts many know leave me to it
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no probs glad you are sorted
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have spoken to a man at the weekend who is a boat builder and is willing to make some moulds for me and as i have a good tailgate and other pannels he is going to have a go so if you decide against it i mite have a source for you
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stud pattern is the same but with a bigger centre so the disc would be loose as for the caliper mounts don't know but do you really need extra stopping power?
i would go for tarox 40 groove discs and so good quality pads
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my classic does 24 mpg on a steady 70 ish cruise and 8 on a spannk! but its hard not to spank with 250bhp on tap lol
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what do you mean by that?
i dont get shirty just plain straight talking and try to help very offen misconstruded
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you have all the parts you need there i would replace the drive plate about £40ish from land rover that is the small plate the torque convertor bolts too as it is that cracks where it bolts to the centre boss
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fit two long bolts onto the torque convertor and try to keep as central onto the shaft as you can then push and keep turning it will drop three times to engage with the drive splines
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well never told that when doing 14cux training! further more if in limp mode the ecu light will be on is it! if not then i can't be in limp mode never experienced one either.
have just read some of the sites and it is not a true limp mode thus cannot really be called limp mode! and unless the waraning light is on you will never know
- i'll not annoy you V8 disciples any further! Well, OK then....
Non start P38 after fitting new battery
in Range Rover Forum
Posted
sounds like the becm and engine ecu have gone out of sync a reprogam should do it does the remote work the locking and it does not display immobiliser fault?