miggit

Err... got a body lift already! And I know that clearance is an issue, as the 265/75/16's aren't exactly a good fit to start with, they were on the car when I got it! I've added the spacers to give some sort of turning circle, as it was like steering the Titanic before! Ideally I'd like to go to 265/70/16's or even 255's to get the gearing more in line with std, but there are 2 issues with that plan. I detest 4 x 4 that have been lifted and then have silly stock wheels on, so I'd be looking to undo all the lifts... that wont be quick of cheap, or I'm into 5 new tyres and I wont fit carp, so that's going to be upwards of £600, again not cheap. Oh and the gearing isn't that much of an issue as I have a 1.4:1 Defender transfer box to go on at some point.. just having a few issues with the speedo as it'd out of a late Def90 and has electronic sender not cable drive, and from what I can see the transfer cases are different at the output So that'll involve a D1 speedo pod as well... Who said Mechano was easy

I'm not trying to fit the wheels to make it look big, I'm just trying not to shell out for a complete new set of tyres when i have a perfectly good set doing nothing!

Just had a thought does anyone know of a 5x165.1 > 5x114.3 adaptor that would get me on to the Jeep stud pattern and problem solved!

I've seen that Cooper recommend 8.5-11 too, the only problem is I can't find anything other than 10's... they are not a common size with a dirty great hole in the middle!

Hi, so the old tank has 265/75/16's and I really don't like them! Basically the tyres are Kumho KH 71 (MT's) and to say that they are a hard ride is an understatement, and I had a brown trouser moment with the same tyres and a Landcruiser in the wet.... I have been very wary of KH 71's ever since! So why 15"? Simple, I have a Jeep jeep! (yes I know the difference!) which has 5x 33/12.5/15, that have covered only a few hundred miles (they still have the blue stuff on them) and the Jeep is going nowhere fast... So I thought about using them on the Rangie I don't think that anyone here will have issues with a Jeep being stripped to keep a Rangie going! Now the tricky bit... As I've given up smoking, I have no desire to install 'Carlos Fandango Super Wide Wheels', and cos I've a 4 door RRC arch flares are a pain to sort out on the rear. So with that in mind what size rims should I be looking at.... The RRC already has +2" springs and a 2" body lift and a set of 50mm spacers (to stop the ratcheting turning, didn't work that well got to do the steering stops!) I'm drawn to 15x8's, but they are a very rare beast S/H, and I also have reservations about the tyres bulging too much and causing even more issues with the steering clearance. I have stumbled across a set of 15x7's S/H but I'm not sure if the tyres would like being squeezed that much, they are Cooper STT's (loude spec!!) Or should I go with 15x10's and hack up the doors and body tub? And are there any fitment issues with 15" rims and vented discs, as that is the next thing on the improvement list!

I only suggested the button cos my pals wife managed to bend the rod on the back door button of their D2, when putting their grandson in the child seat.. end result the lock stopped working!

Found this lot... the first thing in their list of products is a 4" lift for a Defender!! http://www.coilsprings.co.uk/offroad.html Failing that what about +2" springs and some 2" spacers?

Either way it's a balancing act or an expensive jacking beam is needed... the 2 poster does away with this!!

At a guess the actuator on the near side is either weak or broken.. have you drowned the lock in WD40?? Has the pop up button got bent? that can make opening / locking difficult, you'll probably need to remove the door card to check (button will then wobble about freely!) My gut feeling is the button is bent if this has suddenly started happening, if it has stuck on occasions then I'd go for the actuator!

But dropping an axle on a 4 post ramp is a total mission as the ramp gets in the way! Your point about the screws is also valid, I knew they ditched them because of ware issues, just didn't know it caused the arms to drop! Just shows that everything that moves needs to be serviced at the correct intervals. And for losing big nuts the floor is best, the car can't fall off the floor and its not too far to fall if you slip off the breaker bar if you need to jump on it!!

Has anyone tried Landcruiser springs? they are about the same diameter but longer... I think that LR +2 is about the same as STD Toyota, so Toyota +2 would be LR +4! The only head scratch is can they be made to fit? Failing that you'll have to get some springs wound, there are places out there that'll do it, and the more springs you have wound the cheaper they will be.. Might be worth a group buy?

It is possible to have too much weight at one end... but, anyone with an ounce of common sense would either prop the opposite end or load the end to be lightened as far away from the posts as possible, or, add weight to the end that is going to be lightened to counteract the weight shift. That's like doing a Dyno test and tieing the car down with a few shoe laces.. and then acting surprised when the car shoots through the wall. Talking of string snapping, reminds me of seeing the cable snap on a 4 poster ramp, send a new Volvo estate through an 18" brick wall needless to say I have been very wary of 4 posters ever since. At the time 2 posters were mainly screw operated, which are way safer in the event of failure... but it can take forever to get the car back on the ground! But I think that nowadays all are hydraulic / cable affairs.. but they do have a ratchet system to stop the sudden drop, but how you lower the car after that I know not. The other point well raised is once you have a 4 poster all that floor area will be dead to anything that rolls on the floor.

P38 axle should only be a problem if the shocks are removed.. they should hold the axle in place. For jobs like gearboxes and fuel tanks, for that matter, a hydraulic transmission jack is a very good investment... especially if it's a better quality one as they have both up and down foot pedals, allowing both hands free for guiding!

The only good thing about a 4 poster is it's quick and you have a handy shelf to put things on... for everything else a 2 poster is way better... with the possible exception that lifting a totally rotten car is to be avoided!! You don't have to use jacking beams to turn the wheels, dropping gearboxes is a lot easier as there is nothing in the way and unloading the suspension is automatic!! The only time anything is really dodgy is when you start taking major weight off one end.. gearboxes and the like are safe as they are with in the arms! So dropping something like a rear axle could cause headaches, but you'd know as soon as you prop the axle! Likewise engine removal could cause the same effect... but you're not going to be underneath when that happens!! Then it's just a case of moving the car forward / backwards accordingly to compensate.. or sandbags!!

Right well I've had some success, poking bits of wire in to the switch socket, I have managed to get some movement out of the mirrors.... and after repeated goes with the switch I did get something, all be it geriatric So I'm rapidly coming to the conclusion that the switch isn't as good as thought... So I've just bought a NOS switch which should be here at the weekend. Annoyingly the wiring is reversed so left does right and visa versa, so I have a distinct feeling that the RRC diagram is reversed... I should have know better when they didn't mark the mirrors left and right! So there will be some remaking of the connections to correct this. The other puzzling thing was... there was a short to earth on one of the O/S mirror wires (discovered while prodding with live wire), so I cut the wire in the footwell to run a new one, put the meter on the wire just to see that the fault is behind the dash and not the door, and its gone ... both sides are open circuit.. what on earth is going on?? Think the car is rebelling against being upgraded

Are well that is where I got sneaky, if you look at the diagram of the wiring for the mirrors, you'll suddenly see that 2 wires (grey/white) are joined together just outside of the mirror.... in fact approximately 6" out side of the mirror when you strip the loom down! So the greys are commoned up and they are all on the same line into the switch. The RRC wiring has 2 commoned wires between the mirrors and 1 independent, so I used the indy wire and the common wire for the nearside (passenger) side and ran a new wire for the drivers side in place of the commoned wire... as its nearer and you don't have to have the dash apart to achieve this! I'm going to try and trouble shoot this today, as I've finished sulking, the only thing that I didn't check was the quality of the earth to the new switch, as I assumed that it was OK as the old mirrors did move to a fashion, all be it like an old person with advanced arthritis But the new ones show no signs of movement... the other thing that I've noticed is there was a noise like a relay clicking when the old mirror was operated, and now nothing, wondering if there is something there.. although the RRC diagram shows no relays... so there is every chance of one being there and unmarked!!

^ I think you'll find the receiver is alloy, as far as I know it was the P38 that were steel and suffered from rust. Air leak is quite probable, there is an issue with the rear pipes rubbing on the subframe. The thing that really springs to mind is the compressor is shot, the ring is plastic and wears out quickly, then it'll score the bore and the pump is useless. You can get rebuild kits (new piston ring) but from my experience I would recommend stripping the pump first and looking at the bore, any scoring, save your money and get a new pump. And when I say new pump I mean new, don't wast your money on S/H as it will more than likely be in the same state as yours. And if you haven't got one already, a Gap IID tool is a must for just about any L322 repair!

There is an obvious answer.. if you have a tow bar and 2 sockets or the 13 pin socket as there is a direct feed from the battery on the socket to power your tint tent... it just happens to double up as a handy charging point when it's all got a bit Pete Tong

Hi all, got a bit of a tricky one and was hoping that someone might be able to help..... I have just fitted D1 door mirrors on my RRC and they aren't working... Simple I hear you say , you've messed it up.. I might have, but I'm normally good at re-jigging electrical circuits.. Now the reason for the cry of help is everything is SH and unknown... the mirrors came off a drowned D1 300 TDi and I had to buy a mirror switch from a breaker, as my RRC has a totally different setup that uses 1 less wire per mirror and 2 switches. I'm confident that the wiring is correct, and it's been done properly with a soldering iron and heat shrink... no sellotape here So what should I be looking at? what fails more often? I must have done something right as the mirrors got lovely and warm when the rear window was turned on.. Should I be trying to find a very nice bod who has working spares that I can try to eliminate the items one by one.. I've got a feeling that it's the switch, but I really need to try another before I raise merry hell with the breaker!!

Forgot to add it's the zip file! open it and running the Rave exe should open everything up! then click on rave icon and select from list!!

Hi, I have just uploaded a copy of Rave to my dropbox, it's a diesel version and is very hard to find, it covers the P38 and L322 diesels, and can be downloaded from here- https://www.dropbox.com/sh/tw4b7wphtwlbgnh/AAD2_E3RRoqqikCsCnpbYZ8qa?dl=0 Hope this is a help!!

Hi bud, I'm probabley the bearer of bad tidings, vibration between 30 and 50 mph is usually the sign of a failling TCC (torque converter clutch) and is a very good reason to talk to a gearbox specialist ASAP! If nothing else than to rule out iminant gearbox failure. I use another site for my RR problems (http://www.fullfatrr.com/forum/index.php) and rumblins from under the car normally spells doom. I hope I'm wrong, but if I'm right, then getting it looked at before it stops will save you £'s, hundreds of them, I was quoted a £700 difference between still driving and not moving. Good luck!