Rich_P

Has anyone thought of what's going to be happening next year? Given that clubs and groups seem to mark special occasions with the likes of the Series motors and what are now dubbed the Defenders, is there anything happening to mark 40 years of the Range Rover next year?

I heard that at one of the shows he openly admitted to finding that a lot of the parts he fitted were not fit for use.

If the suspension bushes are worn then that won't help either.

Best bit is that it isn't his main job. He's head vet of the RSPCA!

The standard gearbox is up to it if you don't thrash it.

At a guess, I'd say check your injector pump timing. Diesel can be emitted from the exhaust in two fashions, black (poorly burnt) and white (unburnt diesel).

Sounds like some people are comparing it to joe blog in the street, which is not what it's about! I'm guessing you would be complaining about the same things when he did the E-Type like "I haven't 90 grand to spend on that, why cant he pick a normal thing blah blah blah". It's a program that's not trying to be too in depth or boring, while at the same time being different to your typical vehicle show. That's why it sells, and should remain like this I say! If you want ultra realistic things, then I suggest you just start watching Wrecks to Riches (also interesting, but seems a bit silly at times). Otherwise stick to the comics.

90 isn't a Series. It's one of them filthy coil sprung motors.

...and most of all, dull and boring! It appears that as a general rule, the younger the Series the poorer the chassis will be (if still on the original). Whereas the mechanicals will be the opposite. As soon as Rover was sucked into British Leyland, the quality of the chassis and other body parts were cheapened. I'd like to see a late 70s or early 80s Series 3 that was a civilian model which is as good as a lot of the Series 1s and earlier 2s. I'm not saying that they're all bad, a lot of the MOD ones are holding up well (but I suspect some of that might be down to their religious application of underseal).

2, 2A or 3 would be good for a first Series.

So judging by what I've seen on the links given earlier, I want to make sure I've got this right. I can tow a 750kg trailer under any conditions, however... If the vehicle's maximum authorised mass is lets say 1,900 kg and has an unladen weight of 1,400 kg, does this mean that I could legally tow a trailer up to 1,400 kg if I lacked the trailer licence?

I've got a basic query (I hope!). Am I right in thinking that a trailer licence is required to hire any trailer over 750kg that is also braked?

It is true that the damage might have been done already, but because I have nothing else to compare my experience with I can only go off my findings and advise what I think is the best option. The difference I see it with the LM grease being used in propshaft UJs and in the swivels, is that it's forcefully pumped into the bearings of the UJ. Whereas in the swivel it is relying on components to splash lubricate isn't it? Or is the general opinion that this has little bearing on lubrication of both components? For free wheeling hubs, allegedly the MAP units are the best/strongest that were available on the market and are easy to service. So if anyone wants to go for free wheeling hubs for whatever reason (I personally just have mine because they were on it when I got it and haven't bothered fitting standard flanges) then go for MAP I say.

Most of which I hear are barely worth even breaking for parts.

I used their paint to brush paint my Land Rover. In two years the paintwork has faded considerably, leaving clear marks when the bonnet is open between what the paint was and what it is now. The colour that I used was Deep Bronze Green. So perhaps it may not be a problem for the other colours on offer?

Not bad!

I like manuals, and I like automatics. The only thing about automatics that I'm not particularly keen about is how they can sometimes disengage on overrun during a descent, a quick dab on the throttle soon sorts that out mind.

I wouldn't recommend one shot grease in the Series swivel housing. If you look on the grease container it lists all the coil sprung vehicles, and all the coil sprung vehicles feature a completely different swivel design (e.g. utilising constant velocity joints rather than universal joints). I would anticipate increased rates of wear on the bearings given what the condition of my Land Rover's swivel internals were like after having had one shot in for a while.

Why a 200Di? Why remove the turbocharger? You're turning the engine into something not much more than a 2.5 NA....

Your fuel pump won't take to it too well, expect the fuel pump to gunge up over a period of time and eventually stop pumping fuel through. I also hear that the injector pump on the 2.25 is not the happiest in the world when it comes to running on anything but diesel, whereas the later Bosch units allegedly work fine with it. I've also seen evidence of the harm veg oil can do to a diesel engine if you're running nearly on pure veg oil or on pure veg oil. It increases the carbon deposits left on the pistons at a rapid rate, so over several thousand miles it can build up enough carbon to potentially begin scoring the bores. Apparently the way to combat this is to increase the temperature and improve filtration of the veg oil as it goes through the system, and I was once told that the reason for the high carbon deposits is because the veg oil burns cooler than normal diesel.