Rich_P

Are you talking about Chris Perfect? If you are, I think they shut down a good year or so ago with Chris (allegedly) going into retirement.

People fitted them as an "economy" device, and when their tired original carb was being replaced they would be "amazed" by the improvement of performance. Said performance only came because they were replacing a fecked carb. The Twin Choke Weber is a different thing all together.

Is that a lightweight tailgate I spy?

They're easy to fit. The most difficult part is fitting the linkage to engage and disengage the overdrive, which bolts onto the top of the gearbox. You may need to cut a hole in the transmission tunnel cover for the lever to go through. I'm not sure about suppliers for new overdrives (I think Roverdrive is one?), but what I can tell you about second hand ones is they can be hit and miss. Some can have little wear and be in excellent condition, others can have a lot of wear and scream away before eventually going clonk giving you no drive. Or they can go clonk and still give you no drive if the input splines are badly worn and strip. Two main types that are floating around in the second hand market is the Toro Overdrive (stronger, bigger oil capacity) and the much more common Fairey Overdrive. You can get parts for the Fairey to repair, but Toro parts are hard to source. As for the fitting of the overdrive to the transfer box, it's a relatively simple procedure. You don't even need to drain the transfer box to do this job. Unbolt the rear access cover, it has six nuts if I remember rightly, and remove it. You will also need to gain access to the top of the transfer box ideally, and remove the top cover to see the output shaft. Unless you have the special tool a screwdriver works to undo the retaining nut that you will see. You will have a large gear visible on the gearbox output shaft, with an unusual retaining nut with a locking tab. Undo the tab and get a screwdriver and gently begin tapping the nut's edges. It'll start to unwind, be careful not to start chiselling away at it! Once it has unwound, remove it along with its locking tab. Following this, the output gear should slide off the output shaft. Next you need to get the replacement output drive section that will act as part of the input to the Overdrive. This goes on the same way that the drive gear came off. It'll have a section of roller bearings to support the input shaft of the overdrive, I'm not sure if that is separate for a Fairey but on my Toro it's integrated with the splines. Refit the unusual nut with its locking tab, and then lock the tab on the nut again. Here comes the fiddly bit. Fitting the physical overdrive in place. You need to lift it up from under the vehicle and slide it in. You have to get the splines lined up and the output gear on the overdrive lined up with the transfer box gears for it to slide in. After that, it's a matter of just bolting it up accordingly and fill it with oil. Not the best guide around by a long way, but it should give you a better idea of what is involved I hope.

The ends look a bit rough. In fact, where are the locating "tags" (cut outs) in the shells?

Running longer shackles without equally longer spring hangers might upset the suspension geometry and cause propshaft problems.

Nearly always the way with Land Rovers unfortunately.

I wasn't aware that Marsland have added an additional chassis to their range. The 2 and 2A still have their own differences between each other mind. The alterations I mentioned were basically having to redrill holes in the front of the tub for a different body mount location, little things here and there. If you browse the Series 2 Club forums you should be able to find a list of the key differences.

Both Richards' Chassis and Marsland have good reputations. The problem with Marsland is that they provide a generic Series 88-inch chassis, so you'll end up with a Series 3 chassis and that requires a few alterations to the vehicle body to fit. It also means that you certainly won't be winning any accurate rebuild awards... Meanwhile Richards provides accurate types for the various Series models, and will definitely be open to negotiations on price and what deals you can get. This does however come at a price.

8 degrees BTDC on an 8:1 engine is crazily advanced. I've found mine works best somewhere between 6 degrees BTDC and TDC.

Series ones, cheaper and look better in my opinion. They can also be easily made less prone to corrosion than the Defender doors, if you get an alloy door top set for them.

Ebay is a good place to start.

You mean townies? Where most of the offspring go about like this-> ?

That's a nice one there.

Those figures look so pleasant. On my Land Rover's last 120 miles or so, 80 of which were to and from Liverpool at 60, it averaged 19.4mpg. One of the joys of a 2.25 litre Petrol.

Land Rover Orphanage is a good place. They do what they can to avoid selling rubbish. I would buy a Zenith from them without worry.

Pleased to see you decided what to do. Contact the Motor Heritage Centre in Gaydon, phone the archive up and they'll be able to tell you the basic specs and what dealership it was dispatched to based upon the chassis number.

What do you say for those who cannot get out there and walk courtesy of a disability, but the same disability doesn't prevent them from driving or operating a vehicle? There is also the counter argument about the damage of what thousands of feet do to the terrain as well. I will say I'm not keen on mini-monster trucks that you see kitted out for pure off-road competition type things being used on greenlanes, but permitting that they're legal (i.e. taxed and MOTed blah blah blah) then I see no reason for them not to be there and just hope that no additional damage is done than lets say a bunch of standard 90s were to do if any.

Standardise it for the most part, maybe leave the A-bar on and rock sliders. Tidy the entire vehicle up, perhaps look to give it another coat of paint if you have the time and resources to do a half decent job (even with a brush as long as it's not go loads of brush marks or dribbles!). I notice it is green in the cabin, maybe paint the body green and strip the cappings back to galv/paint them silver? That should help a lot. A tidy but still mildly personalised (see A-bar, parabolics etc) Series always grabs my attention.

I love it! Splosh!

I think I saw somewhere that said the "official" 70,000 mile service was a body lift off jobbie, But that it can just about be done with the body still in place. Can anyone confirm this?

Further to what's been said, it is clear that has been messed about with. Those wheel arch extensions, same colour all over the body (including painted galv cappings) and modular wheels will put off a lot of the classic car people who will want a standard Series. I think you've got a bit of a problem. If you want decent money from it you'll need to gear it towards the classic car people (i.e. not muddy off-road sorts) because otherwise you're up against people going for Discoveries and other super-cheap but also super-good motors.

What's "Open Access" land?

Either they had another carb that they needed bits for, or (more likely from my experiences) removed it as the choke did bugger all to help with cold running. These single choke Webers aren't known for being a preferable type to use. It's often recommended to fit either the Solex or Zenith back on.

I think they are legally permitted to go anywhere, something about the right to roam as set by the gov. Better yet, you're liable should they hurt themselves on your land.