MartinM

I have a 2010 RRS (L322) TDV8 - I think it’s had the air suspension compressor replaced twice from new - usually you get odd messages like forward alert not available (which also means cruise control won’t work). Other issues can arise with stability system (message then is stop vehicle) that can be a low fluid level in the stability system. Not necessarily either of this is the case here if you’re not getting error messages so maybe there’s other resistance in the set up (shock absorbers possibly) Sorry not a definitive answer but may help eliminate or de-prioritise certain options.

Have found that the fan runs with or without the control wire connected but a replacement fan doesn't suffer the same problem of constant run on IG1 position wheb connected. Unfortunately it's a pre 99 one and the connector on the control wire has a different plug style. I'll update further when I manage to replace the fan with a later valeo unit (or hack the wiring on the one I have).

I can't speak for the RR Sport detachable, but I have a Witter detachable towbar on our Suzuki GV. It is possible for the pin and handle to get out of sync and as a result the bar won't go in. Try pulling the handle all the way back till it clicks so the pin is retracted. In theory you should be able to insert it easily and press the release button. It might be worth check for any grit in it too. If in doubt though it would be worth popping into your local towbar specialist or LR Dealer as what you are describing is not usual - but probably simply fixed by someone with the right "nack"!! Martin Medforth

Thanks David, This morning the flashing light problem when A/C switched off "issue" has gone away so I guess your note about temperature challenges (it was warm yesterday) make sense. I can also confirm that having taken the left hand fan offline by removing RL7 I know that the HEVAC is controlling the RH blower just fine. I haven't confirmed whether the HEVAC treats left and right blowers separately - but all in your point that it might be a wiring issue seems to make sense. I think that it probably needs me to take the fan out and look at the internal wiring. I've refound an entry on rangerovers.net (user Werner from early January) which suggests that it might be that the circuit board in the back of the unit. Obviously all I need is a spare fan to test! (though I'm not thinking of taking the RH one out to confirm the issue is with the unit!! - LOL) However - at least there's enough logic flouting around for a bit more constructive fault elimination! I'll update when I know more. Martin

After no problems in ages the Book Symbol came on on the HEVAC on my 2000 MY Vogue and at the same time the Left hand side blower decided it was on (always). Putting Faultmate on I cleared the initial legacy errors and now have two faults permanently on both being left hand blower motor stop mode fault (28) - with error 1 being in memory and error 2 being current. Clearing these faults has no effect (i.e. they return!) I have checked RL7 and it seems as fine as you could expect on vehicle of this age. No loose pins and no sign of overheating. Equally the fuse box looks superficially clean and dry - though dismounting it might reveal ancient damp corrosion. Swapping RL7 and RL6 around has no effect on the problem of blower running on left hand side (even with ignition in number 1 position) so I guess it's not a faulty relay. I'd read somewhere that the soldering on the blower can become "dry" and cause this sort of problem, but I suspect that resoldering that would be a DIY job too far for me - even assuming I can work out how to remove the not inconsiderable lump from behind the glove box. Another view was that crud can accumulate around the cabin temperature sensor below the clock giving false reading - I've tried blowing into it but that makes no difference. Otherwise I'm wondering if this might be new HEVAC control time as on Faultmate the heater core temperature reading seem to like 6662 C (or there abouts)as a reading - though I watched go from 81 to 26 to 14 to 6,600 ish where it stays. One other thing - when I press the A/C off switch the button press light flashes rather than stays on! Though most of the functionality still seems to be fine - including cooling and heating. For the moment I have removed RL7 to stop the blower running constantly. Obviously any thoughts would be appreciated on this, though I realise that problems in this area are notoriously difficult to diagnose. Thanks, Martin

G2s are, I think, closer to OEMs but sold as being more durable so you may find that the ride differences are not as noticable. The G3s are designed to run with a lower spring rate off road and a higher one in highway mode (above 50mph) - almost the opposite to OEMs. That said I have no experience of G2s and being a techie was rather drawn to the concept of there being an element of "improvement" in the G3s rather than the G2s. Worth checking the Arnott website for details at www.arnottindustries.com. Whatever, if you go for Arnotts you shouldn't need to buy any more as they all come with a "lifetime" guarantee - i.e. if they spring a leak (unless they are maliciously cut!) you ought to get an exchange, though I'm not sure whether you'll get the "satisfaction" exchange that they apply in the US. Probably also worth a chat with Andy Iles at P38 Spares if you are undecided. Picking up on your comment about mild laning at worst and the fact that your wife appears to have taken on ownership I suspect I'd go for G2s personally. The G3s are "different" - and I suspect a bit "marmite" so to speak. My other half doesn't have much of an opinion but oddly tends to prefer her Suzuki GV "on road" as she reckons the ride is smoother - I however beg to differ for reasons stated above related to the powerplant setup (which incidentally gives me about 18 mpg on LPG - though not when in sport mode! Pity you aren't nearer to Herts else you could come and play with my bus before you decide! Martin

The Arnot G3 are, in my opinion better if you are wanting to a) keep the truck and b) want versatility (i.e. want off and on road performance). On a 2001 P38 I'd say (all things being equal) that you are going to keep it on b) only you can say. The set up I adopted was Arnott G3s and Bilstein Shocks. Overall the performance off road is better as the G3s move with rough terrain rather better than the dunlops. This leaves you "hanging in the air" rather less and, imho, produces better traction. On road the vehicle is more balanced - though if you are looking for the armchair effect - and don't want the improved off road performance - then OEM is probably better. That said I have a JE uprated V8 in mine which works well up to 5k revs and quite honestly if I wasn't on Arnotts I'd probably be scared Nevertheless - like any "sportier" set up - it is firmer. UK wise Andy Iles at P38 Spares is a reliable Arnott agent - and can also supply OEMs cost effectively. Hope that helps Martin

Seem to recall I had similar problems with one of my rear one's and the advice about WD 40 and leverage is good. Also found a "rust brush" useful. Mine took about 40 mins of sustained effort but came clear in the end. I can recommend Arnot Gen 3s - though they do produce a rather different ride (actually I think better). Andy Iles at P38Spares is an agent here in the UK so no need to import from the US. All the best Martin

Of course all this assumes it doesn't break further!!

Well the blow on the drivers side is clear now, and having determined that the maf sensor seems to behaving ok it's looking like it could be the head gasket. Though its not drinking coolant and all is still pressurising ok, so it may be the exhaust manifold gasket. Probably going to limp up to Coventry to JE as the truck has their low restriction cats on. Their fixed price (850) for doing both sides is the same as the "starting from" price from my local independent. I'll update this to close when I get more news.

I went with Orange polybushes on my P38. Overall I think it's improved handling off road. However, I would recommend not fitting polys to the panhard road. I did and found that I got intermittent front end judder at 55mph plus specifically when catching some rough road. Cured this by going back to oem rubber on the panhard. That said this may not be the case for all p38s ... certainly polybush were surprised when I raised this with them, though my local industry said it wasn't the first time they'd had to remove polybush from a panhard. My truck is on Arnott gen 3s and bilstein shocks. maybe on oem airbags and shocks this is less of an issue. Martin.

For what it's worth I replaced all four of mine about 18 months ago for Arnott Gen 3's. They were about the same cost as I'd have paid for OEM if I'd gone to a dealer (though you'll get OEM's cheaper from Rimmers). The Gen 3s do give a different ride - though I'd have to say that the "harder off road" may not be to everybodies taste. Overall the originals had been on for about 8 years - one had developed a slow leak and was on advisory as yours. I used Arnotts as they were reported as a good upgrade and have a whole of life guarantee (though as always not sure you'd get much comeback in 10 years time!!) Hope this helps

OK - so I'll leave the leads as is! I'm using one of Blackbox Solutions MSV Extreme units which is good at reporting information. Accessing the engine ECU there are readings for running with reports for each cylinder for misfires and rough running. I have 0 against all (no misfires) but a roughness figure that runs up to about 4.7-5.0 (not sure what units) for cylinders 1 and 7 and intermittent roughness on cylinder 2 up to about 2.4 ish. All other cylinders report clean. Need to check what the Oxygen sensors are reporting, but I appreciate what you are saying that this is a report of a symptom rather than a cause! I'll see if there is anything on the Blackbox Forum regarding this! And whatever happens I'll update this post!

Not sure I would go to the £5k end (though thats a fully rebuilt and guaranteed engine) ... though as the rest of the car is known condition it may be easier than buying another truck and starting from scratch on Aircon, EAS, shocks, bearing, exhaust, etc etc etc etc Sequencing is confusing - VogueSE39 seems to suggest Bulkhead 7 8 5 6 3 4 1 2 Radiator I have Bulkhead 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 Radiator Elsewhere I think I've seen what I have which is that the LH side is the NEARSIDE on RHD and the RH side is offside (i.e. as viewed from rear). Certainly that's the way LH and RH works on info centre for doors and windows. Truck doesn't misfire but reports rough on 1, 2, 7 with 2 being about half as bad as 1 and 7. Any chance others could advise on HT wiring sequence - or tell me which section of the manual I need to RTFM!?? Like the idea of garden spray with petrol! (suspect not that brave or stupid!!) Thanks

Well that has to be a good start as the leads have back to front already - though it maybe we are wrong at both ends (i.e. distribution cap and cylinder banks)- we'll go back to first principles on this ... as usual the Workshiop Manual is less than clear - maybe I've not find the right page! Only thing is that the vehicle is running albeit with the roughness and odd power distribution. I'm using a set of leads from P38 Spares - their reference GW102 which is for the Thor - that said the ones I took off were really green and not as tight a fit on the plugs as these are so not sure what they were! Air leak sounds likely - its a periodic (rev related) "psst" sound though it becomes more throaty under higher revs which is why I'm tlking manifold - any thoughts where the seat might be if it's not an exhaust manifold gasket? (The manifold was replaced two years ago as it had corroded and was blowing - but the sound this time is different!) Really appreciate the feedback - facing anything between a £1.5k to £5k bill at JE is motivating a bit more play around with this and this is helpful! Martin