Tim2809

Cheers garry for advice, suspension will stay up for weeks if left stood so don't think there's any leaks. It's booked in with local specialist so their headache now.

Further checks it appears front shocks are not working, air compressor is over heating if lowered and then put in high and now won't go down on the front says extended suspension move from obsticle and retry.

It's able to go through full range of height settings. The back is smooth to ride in but the front feels like if it was old school the shocks are not working. No diagnostics yet as garage can't touch it for 2 weeks

My bosses 2011 rrs tdv6 seems to be very bouncy on front end. Is there any self calibration that can be done or are the air bag/shock combos a common failure at £600 each. Any help appreciated

I also have clutch fix HD clutch. Pedal is lighter than standard. Its in a 300tdi but with earlier clutch pedal so has return spring rather than the helper spring.

That's not the water pump. It's the viscous fan mounted on idler. Only available with replacement front cover

I would also check prop uj's as can't see anything on hubs would make it squeal only when pulling uphill. Prop uj will squel when loaded.

I did the lt77 200tdi to 300tdi with r380 conversion I fitted it in factory position so needed to replace engine mounts, change both propshafts, seat box and tunnel, oil cooler pipes, coolant hoses, radiator and intercooler, air filter and pipework, coolant expansion bottle and exhaust. Yes it all added up but I now know if something goes wrong I can fit standard 300 parts rather than conversion hoses or having to cut and shut hoses.

as above approved tool and only on suspect corroded and weakend areas. cant just go along beating the chassis the whole length.

when i went from lt77 to r380 i had to change slave cylinder pipework as on oposite side but cylinder was the same. ( actually bent original pipe to suit until new one arrived) also used same release fork and rod. cant see the stumpy being any different to be fair

the earlier master 2 pipes goto the pdwa. from there 1 line does both rears, the other both fronts with a t by o/s/f spring seat in chassis. only way to split left/right or diagonal is to have 2 lines to the rear. the earlier master also has a bigger union on 1 port so i assume 1 stage of master creates more fluid movement.

i have my old valve with switch if you want it. just cover postage cost

the older 110 split front to rear on master cylinder. the 3 port splits front and rear on 1 part of the master and the other front out the other port. so they must think its safer to run just 1 front rather than just rears in case of major leak which i can see the sense in that logic.

dont think its as easy as going from disco into a defender as ashcroft do the adapter. dont think there are adapters to put defender into disco. you been offered a straight swap which is easiest option.

do you know for a link with how to do the td5 and programming