MECCANO
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Posts posted by MECCANO
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Cheers
From memory, my lwt is 40mm running 2 leaf chris perfect (Ti-console copies).
The problem is the springs suffer from wrap, and although they cleared the track rod when i first fitted them, now they don't when unladen.
Fitting a lighter more power engine hasn't helped either.
What castor angle did you guys use? and how did you measure it?
I built the axle up with swivals and track rod (with no toe in/out).
Then set the flat on the top of the swival ( where the king pin is) to 3 degrees.
Apologies for all the questions, its just interesting to get other peoples take on the conversion.
just seen previous post.. oops!
Thanks
Chris
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Sorry to high jack the thread. Can anyone rememeber what the stock saddle height is on a sereis axle (pre-extension).
Cheers
Chris
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Thought about using a motorbike cooling fan? they are basiclally mini kenlows, They tend to be nosier than centrifugal fan, but seem to chuck out alot of air.
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The 300tdi head does fit the 200tdi block, or atleast bolts up and turns over... although i have yet to run mine : )
the 300tdi has a crank driven oil pump ( at the front of the engine),which i think would be the main issue you may cross. it may mean that you can't drop the 300tdi crank into the block. this is only speculation, you would have to check it out for yourself.
i think the tdi's have differnt pistons ( with a combustion chamber ) so you would need to use those.
i take it the 2.25's are 5mb too?
its alot of work, it maybe easy to source another short block.
Just to add, the 300tdi head fits on a 200tdi block using the timing case/ pump from the 200tdi. so your not really using much of the 300tdi.
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The n/a t16 is 138bhp at 6000rpm, and 136lb/ft at 2500rpm.
Its very revy engine so you would need to gear it right for the engine.
see here for detials:
http://www.aronline.co.uk/blogs/2011/08/26/engines-m-and-t-series/
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Hi Richard
Well from what i can find out the manaully actuated td5 turbo is gt2052s. so the number you have been give sounds right if its the electronic variant.
The best way to check is to look for a name plate, or stamped surface on the compressor side of the turbo. Might be easiest to take a picture with a camera on a high setting than get your head in there. Like this click!
Hth's
Chris
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Probably not much help, but are you 100% it should be an electronic actuator. As you can usually get mechanical and electronic actuated versions of the same turbo. It may just be the electronic version is more common due to its application in newer vehicles.
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Don't think anyones said it, and can't resist!
X-plode
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Does it back fire when you lift off to change gear?
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Did the problem occur after you changed the carb. has it ever flooded and hen wont re-start?
Mine behaved liek this and it turned out the "new weber carb" had the vacum advance takeoff on the wrong side of the throttle butterfly. ( it should be before)
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Sorry the sd1 bell hosuing is the same as the sherpa.. i was saying it was alot shorter than usign the mpi setup.
All that matters is the starter isn't turbo side( as those bellhosuings are easy to get hold of). He used the sherpa flywheel. which is the same as the mpi.
the pinion shaft for the lt77 is the same as the sd1 v8.
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I beleive mid twenty's with normal driving.
Hopefully soon i will be able to let you know.
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A few pics.
Before it was fitted, notice there isn't really a flywheel housing just a back plate with the sd1 setup making it super stumpy.
In the car, still alot of tidying up to do. but it runs/ drives under its own power:
And for comparison, this is the mpi flywheel housing connected to an r380. ( Its a std bellhousing on the r380 but the input shaft tip is only about 13mm diameter)
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I've got a t series in my lwt, coupled to a defender transmission. I brought the remains of marcos conversion. there are a few pic son his site still, but i don't think they will help much.
It uses an sd1 2000 bellhousing and input shaft.making it super short ( perfect in a series ) but these parts are hens teeth.
Alternatively you can use the disco mpi r380 flywheel housing and change the r380 to the mpi input shaft ( or get a custom spigot bush machined up)
You basically need an mpi + box and the turbo engine, and make a blend between the two. to get it to fit.
Its not really something you can do in a weekend.
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Except for a lwt. I only mention because of your user name.
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Like you say i would use a suitably IP rated socket ( big round blue jobbies)
I think i've seen people place them under the battery box with suitable mud shield. How ever i can't see its the best position if you go anywhere remotely off road.
There must be some info out there on home build camper conversion. I think i've seen t25 Vdubs or mk2 campers with these connectors.
I would definately install a Residual current device. The only problem i can see is that if you have large loads or lots of consumers, you may struggle to get sufficient discrimination between the rating of your RCD and with the existing sytem.
Effectively you want the device in your landy to trip before that further up the wire.
I would go check the names plates of the items you think you would want to use, and tot up the powers. that way you can get an idea of the currents/ RCD you would require.
No idea how this applies to "Thou shall not install a new circuit"... on homes though : )
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Same here, looked into this.
You probably already mentioned it but the solenoid/valves are all fail safe, so you just end up with standard braking in an un powered position.
Wabco ( or how ever you spell it) have a whole load of manuals on their systems that give you flow diagrams, wiring schmatics, pin numbers etc... if you haven't already located them. It only tends to be 4wd's that have 8 solenoids. i think most front wheel drives have 6 with the rears paired.
I think the pump maybe there to also help retract/ release the brake pressure from the caliper quicker when the system registers a skid, but could be wrong.
There is also a sprung loaded resivior damper to smooth out the shock impulses from the rapidly alternating valves in there some where.
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Awesome, got any more pics on how you did it?
did you move the engien forwards?
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Turbo Charger, Wasn't meant to be a "how you should do it" sorta pic.
Just thought you might want to copy the working design you have, in a heavier gauge. ( Although the 300tdi manifold bits are pretty substatial anyway i believe???).
I have no idea on manifold design
Just thought it might give some inspiration! Other than sharpe angles = bad... i'm sure some one will come and tlel me this isn't necessary true straight after posting this! The honda engine is pretty crowded, I'm sure you could improve on this with the space you have under a landy bonnet, Even create some sort of tubilar master peace if you have the time to spare.
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As snagger says, the coiler axle has the track rod on the rear of the axle, and if you tried to set the axle of standard height axle blocks and standard castor angle. The trackrod would be bang smack where the leaves are. Adding 20mm to the blocks gives you the clearance for the track rod, but lowers the car.
If you use extended military shackles ( which would double the castor angle) and then rotate the axle back so that it is the standard castor angle to compensate. You gain clearance with out having to extend the blocks much.
The problem comes if you want to go back ot standard shackles again... you would end up with no castor angle and very wobbley steering.
Most parrabolics give you +20mm. so if you have these and you then extended the blocks by 20mm you end up where you started... so no major probs.
Another thing to note. Extending the blocks help to reduce axle wrap slightly.
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Sounds like an excuse to buy an ali gear knob, that uses a grub screw to locate instead of a thread.
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Welding isnt really an issue, have decent welding machines and my gf's grandad is a welder by trade so thats that sorted!
Heavy steering isnt really an issue as I have converted it to power steering.
I have military shackels allready fitted, and dont mind to much about getting an angle grinder to it! Cant work out why I will loose 20mm ground clearance though?
I guess the main things are the brakes, after off roading at mud monsters the weekend before last the brakes were shocking, it was pulling all over the place due to the carp that had got within the drums, wheels locking e.t.c. By the time I had reached home (40miles ish) they were back to normal.
I have rebuilt the axles/brakes and do agree that they are most likely as good as disks, but the issue is after off roading.
Another thing (I will get flamed for this
) is that I prefer the coiler axles as it makes the land rover look much more better due to the wider track width! Sad, I know.Just got to get around to doing it!
Power steering, sounds like you have it in the bag then. I always think of the steering as going to the gym... if i ever went that is!
Its only 20mm if you use standard shackles.
If you rotate the axle to the correct castor angle with military shackles fitted, you don't have to add 20mm to the axle blocks for the track rod to clear. Which is all good.
Wde axles you say.. SPAM:
Just thought it might give some inspiration! Other than sharpe angles = bad... i'm sure some one will come and tlel me this isn't necessary true straight after posting this! 
Rear Disc Brakes.............the build...............
in Series Forum
Posted
Definately helps, i've only started to nice the problem since i shaft the saddles down slightly.
My intention is to install anti-wrap linkges to the top of the axle. Just need to finish them off.
I'm surprised about your comment on the the steerign becomign lighter. Mine became stiffer. I put this down to the arm on the swival that connects to the drag link is shorter than a series.
Do you know if your 109 has the lower ratio 1-ton steering box?