MECCANO
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Posts posted by MECCANO
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Cheers!. It's such an improvement. Completely transformed the vehicle.
I used a couple of quick fist clamps on the filter.
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First off all i need to swap the box out for the R380 as the lt77 just can't handle shifting at the higher revs.
It also has a 1.2 transfer which is a tad to high.
There is also a small issue of heatsoak on the turbo. There isn't enoug flow over the water cooled turbo when the thermostat opens on idle. A bit of re-plumbing should cure this though.
Since the pictures above, i have relocated the Mems ecu to the batttery box. The ecu could handle the vibrations of the engine fine, but the old oil hardened wiring couldn't.
As a result i knocked up a new 4m loom ready for squirting at a later date.
The current ecu still requires a rotor arm setup with single coil... and needs to go.
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Well its about time i finally stuck some pics up of the lwt with its new lump.
I havent got many pictures, but hopefully you will enjoy what i do have.
For those that dont know what a t16 is, it a 2.0L Rover Engine that was pre k-series. Comes in N/a and Turbo form, it would be rude not to have a Turbo.
Its a cast steel block and ali head and kicks out 200bhp in stock form. 190lb/ft Torque. and weighs a fraction of the old 2.25.
I originally intended to fit a TDi lump for day to day driving... but i changed my mind mid conversion.
After a friend suggested i couldn't remove the old 2.25 and have the new engine and box mated in the same evening, it looked like this:
The engine is coupled to an lt77 with a short bell housing/ input shaft setup.
Because the engien is normally fitted transversly in a FWD car, a few other things were needed to make it fit.
Using a blend of Disco MPi, SD1 and random Ldv bits you end up with this:
The engine is pretty dinky, and with the short bellhousing it sits pretty far back:
The turbo was pretty tight, but clocking the inlet gave me the space to clear the footwell without getting the grinder out:
The finished article on its first proper run down to a muddy War and Peace Show:
(I expect a flamming over the exhaust!)
Hope you like!
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3rded on the Irwins.
Although they use to do an imperial and metric set (even though they claim they do both) If one failed the other would always do it.
I found the trick was an a long extension bar to steady them, and stop them twisting off.
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Sorry to here that Grant, will keep any eye out.
Any description on the towing vehicle?
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Nige is it possible to get before/ after pics? Would be interested to see how much of a difference they make.
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No worries, just keep the pics coming!
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Isn't the mainsahft different as well on the p38 box???
Much easier to swap the pinion and bell housing if the pinion has the same number of teeth, and possibly shaft size.
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Defender 4 pot lt77 is 148mm to lip. lip is 8mm
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Si
Sorry if you have stated it in this thread already ( i did look) But whats the porpose of a voltage sensitive relay. Stop you running the battery to low?
TSD
There seems to be alot of cables on these things, are they multiple elements?
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Jad just tested it, a stock lt77 bellhousing from a 4cycl defender goes straight onto an r380 disco mpi (early suffix, cant remebr which) box in the garage.
I think your along the right lines with the adapter, i'd do the same.
Gear lever wise, theres a few people making adapters to convert disco to defender shifter mech.
hth
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Didn't this happen at an estate in camberley, but the guy burried his 200sx into aload of parked cars whilst trying to practice drifting?
I think it was some one on here who posted it.
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Owned
Okay Eberspacher are a pain in the .....
Blue Moon What webasto do you have?
I think if you were to use a continous pump, you are best running it as its intended, with a slightly restrictive return.
Then tapping off the circuit with a solenoid valve ( operated by the heater) and a bleed valve to trim it in to the correct flow using the values in the above manual.
Actually scrap that, put the bleed valve in the return, and you effectively have an injection setup.
I think this is how the larger Night heaters work (+10kw)
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Fridge... Good luck finding those values in a manual. Webato and Eberspacher don't broadcast it.
I was refering to the comment of a generic fuel pump... aka a continous flow car pump. Which you can't just connect up instead.
Yes if you know the value you could replicate it, and build a circuit to drive a contious pump in a pulse mode. or lash something up with an injector etc.. but continually dosing the thing with too much or even too little fuel and you will send it into a fault mode.
Which then means buying more kit to clear that.... when you can pick up a correct pump for £25-30
Also an eberspacher or webasto will only stroke once until the voltage is release.A generic pump may deliver multiple squirts in that pulse width duration.
Also webasto and eberspacher aren't easily interchangable... a webasto 3kw pump has a completely different flow rate to an eberspacher of the same kw rating.
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unfortunately not, they work on a single pulse from the controller stroking the solenoid. if you apply 12v to the pumps they just pump once and doesnt return until the voltage is removed.
Hopefully that makes some sense.
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Any idea on their OD? I think these might be a great addition to my lwts bonnet to finally stop it sqeaking.
Cheers
Chris
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Guys i have a r380 suffix j box, prefix 63A (disco Mpi)
It needs a new main shaft, and i just wanted to confirm TUD101720 is the correct number.
Thanks in advance
Chris
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So just the "small" increase of an average family hatch back then
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Nice work.
So how much does the truck weigh... just wondering the power/ton value.
What sort of power did the old engine kick out?
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Brilliant, i've been waiting to see some one use one of these.
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Good work
what master cyclinder are you using on yours Gremlin?
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Better late than never.
Fridges anti wrap:
Soren's:
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Ah sorry, got the wrong end of the stick.. again
Yeah i tihnk he did, i have it in my favorites on my home pc. I will post up the link later tonight.
My setup isn't as fancy or rigid as his. i'm trying a bar/link setup to teh top of the axle which is normally used in rwd leaf sprung cars/ hotrods.
Essentially its a 4-link method, but you use the leaf's to act as the bottom link. You can still achieve some wrap, but it is significantly reduced
I think Soren has something similar, but -uses one link at the top of the axle. ( which i also have a link for soem where).
T16 Powered Light weight.
in Modified Vehicle Builds & Special Projects
Posted
Double post!