digger 2

another way of doing it is to cut a hole in the inner wing and make a heat sheild using block of wood,

i fitted the mud one's last year and worked great all winter .

the red wire will be live you can test it with a test lamp or a 12volt bulb. the wire will have a number near it on the wiring diagram 30 is 12v live 15 is 12volt switched 31 is earth and so on. that will tell you what the wire should do and when it should also be fused just in case.

having looked at the d1 wiring, your original plan to cut the 12volt supply to the thermostat/ switch and leave it switched on is probably best . you could also add a switch at the same place as overide in case the battery went flat in your remote.It will probably be the red wire that you need to cut .

the box is like a relay .you find the wire that is live when the heater is switched on and just wire it to that wire you leave the box in the off position as you are supplying the live from the remote box. the only drawback is once switched on with the remote you have to turn it off with the remote .will try and do you a diagram how i've done it. may take a while not good with computers

have a look here for how to wire the remote http://www.quasaruk.co.uk/acatalog/DSQS-4_Remote_Systems.pdf there are no wiring instructions with the kit but you can download them from here and order spare remotes.

have a look on maplins web site for an L26BK . If you can see the landy from the house just add ared led to the switched supply wire so you can tell its on. just wire it into the wiring on the back of the timer. i've fitted one to a webasto heater works well for £35 .

landrover td5 one or late 300 tdi have the washer bottle behind the headlight. just assembled the parts to do a 200 tdi for a mate next .

here is one in a 300tdi if you are good with the wiring and make your own loom you could possibly do it for £200 or less

my 86 B reg 90 was the same.i bought a cap and ended up buying new filler kneck and the rubber tube to connect it to the tank.

just taken seat out and taken a few pics of fuel pump if its any help glad to hear its running ok now.

on my 300 tdi i removed the tank sender unit drilled a small hole to fit a length of brake down then used a male and female with flares and a nut to make a fuel pick up pipe. not quite as long as the engine one so heater will run out first . it was cheap and fairly easy and it worked ok

have you looked on the rover 75 & zt owners forum there's a guy called keith seems to know a lot about these heaters. found a lot of usefull info on there when fitting mine. also have you tried running it in a separte fuel supply ie a pipe in to a gallon can of diesel then straight to the pump might be worth a try.

don't know if this is any good but have fitted a rover 75 heater have made my own loom with a simple on off switch and a single channel remote kit from maplins found some good wiring and info on reedex and the rover 75 forums.

have bought a single channel remote from maplins £35 not fitted it to heater yet will do in a couple of weeeks.have just got the burner on an on off switch at the moment do not think i will bother with a timer.