Kevm

Thanks Red.

Can someone please tell me the part no's for the gaskets top and bottom of the thermostat housing, is it the same gasket? just x2 I used to use Allbrit but it's now all in ruddy Jerman!

After viewing the last three, I think we are going to need a bigger bucket.

Ok, that kettle socket is the input fairy-nuff. New question - you say cover the connector with petroleum jelly before tightening, but if you get grease/jelly between the surfaces wont that be an insulator? and degrade the connection?

Haven't you got the wrong sex of kettle socket/plug there?, looks a bit dodgy if there is 240v at those pins

I did wonder if it was originally "bunged" will have a look at your link and ebay and see if I can find one suitable then, Ta.

Anyone tell me the part number for the grommet/bung that goes in the hole in the chassis on the N/S - the O/S has one that fits around the rear lights cable bundle where it exits from the chassis but I just have a hole on the N/S. Be nice to plug that hole up and stop some of the s**t going in there.

I did wonder about vent holes and it seems the galvanisers need holes top and bottom to let the air out, the odd thing after looking at loads of sliders yesterday (most of which were galvanised) no one has mentioned putting holes in or having to plug them after to stop them filling with mud and no one has mentioned about the screws/pins that support the ends of the arches. So looks like I will have to drill and tap the ends to take the arch screws and put in vent holes which I will plug after.

I want to make a pair of rock/tree sliders as the sill panels on mine are covered with bent alloy checkerplate and look carp. I have searched and found lots of people who want drawings but not found any decent drawings but from what I have seen 80x40x3mm box seens to be a sensible size. One thing that I have noticed is at the front and back there is a screw that goes though the rubber wheel arch and screws into the end of the existing sill - how do you fix that if you have a slider? I plan to get them galvanised so dont really want any little holes in the ends, I suppose I could drill them afterwards. Anyone got any drawings and what did you do about the wheel arch screws?

If #3 looks whiter/hotter then maybe it is an injector problem or even an injector pump problem on that cylinder. While you have the injectors out you could put them all back on the ends of the pipes and try and point them into a big cardboard box, put some safety glasses on and get someone to crank it over and look at the spray pattern from the injectors (don't get too near the spray) Also change the hotplugs (ERR1223) in the head while you have it off - they are the little round plugs with a square hole in front of the injectors, they usually crack, see if the one on #3 looks any different? It's not getting too hot is it? have you checked the rad, water pump, thermostat etc?

I am maybe a bit late with this suggestion or it's totally useless but have you tried putting the reg number into some of the HPI/stolen check sites? This is the first one I came across on the list, https://www.instantcarcheck.co.uk/ For the sake of a tenner you could find out if it shows up as anything bad. Nice new galvanized chassis, sort any other rusty bits when its apart and it will last a long time and still be worth something.

I had the head off to do the gasket on mine so gave it a clean up of the ports, reckon ive got as much as - oh 69 to 70 hp now.

So what is the difference between a disco TDI and a defender TDI?

Thats the one I have on mine (89 2.5na) I had a job finding one the same when I changed it. When you look at the prices in the link Western gave http://www.lrseries.com/shop/product/listing/1355/563146-DIESEL-LIFT-PUMP.html Do you rub your chin and wonder "should I get a genuine one or a Britpart?" or do you decide instantly?

Sounds a lot like mine, oil leaks everywhere, fixed a few of them had the head off and sorted that but it still blows oil into the air cleaner. Not really worth a full stripdown and rebore because it would still only be 67bhp, I just drive it and if anything major goes wrong with the engine I would look for a TDI to go in. Still worth you doing the head though as it's not really that big a job and made a big difference to how well mine ran.