Dengie Boy

I done exactly the same this Easter at an open CCV event, let a friend double drive and he beat me Seen that green 88 with the yellow cage before anyhow nice wide gates you have there and nice to see your Series 1 out being used. Thanks for sharing the pics.

Thanks Western, had a quick look round the forum but didn't look hard enough . Found the Disco2 manual in "request for part numbers" under "links to parts books"

Hi all, Has anyone a wiring diagram for the ABS/Traction control fitted to the Disco 2 please or know where I can download the workshop manual. Will be installing it into an 80inch offroader I'm building and need to get my head around the wiring/plumbing issues, thanks.

Sorry to hear about your wing Snagger, hope it doesn't cause you too much in time and money. I had 4 people lift the shell back onto the chassis, one on each corner and that was heavy enough as it didn't have any front on it!! I think a straight lift off would be too much for 2 people. Don't forget to keep us posted.

As stated previously, its worth stripping and removing the bodyshell as you can lay it on its side which makes welding the body mount areas easier. I used new panels and replaced inner wings, floor etc and fabbed new body mounts then just used red oxide paint and black chassis paint on the shell, worked well and lasted ok. My budget didn't stretch to any fancy galvanizing or special coating but I would recommend galvanizing it if your keeping the vehicle and don't fancy any future welding. Good luck with the project, will be following your posts with interest.

Thanks, its used for trialing, laning and pulling the caravan as well. Built so that 32inch tyres dont rub the standard bodywork. Trialing Wife getting it muddy Caravan Suspension travel Engine 3.5efi

235x85x16 grizzly claws come up at 32inch diameter and fitted mine with a 2inch suspension lift, 1inch body lift and no cutting of the arches. The tyres below are now for sale as i tow a caravan and wanted a better handling road tyre.

Thanks for the replies, looks like i will be fabing some wedges then once ive worked out the angle required. Thanks ToyRoverlander for the link, some good info on the props there.

Hi, I have been rebuilding a series for trialing and have fitted the military shackles As you can see from the photo, its now tipped the front diff nose down with greater angle on the propshaft. I have been told that upon fitting these shackles you then need to fit angled wedges between the axle and spring mounting to correct this problem. Been searching on this but cant find any info, will I need to prefab these wedges? can you buy them? or am I barking up the wrong tree? Any help or advice would be appreciated

.....more like catching a bus! Good luck on the soundproofing.

Hi Davo I cut three 3inch holes and bolted stainless wire mesh on the inside of the bonnet, its quick and simple. Even when stopped it chucks out loadsa heat with the engine running and the viscous fan turning.

Mines an 87 that has the single pipe from the Y piece right through to the rear silencer but then exits with twin tailpipes. Think this system was fitted from 86 to 89 on the 3.5efi then they had a single exit tailpipe on the 3.9efi. I know these two systems are different in size as the later one has a larger diameter, hope that info will help you. Cant help you on the earlier twin system im afraid.

Im after an aux fuse box as well and will probably purchase this one http://www.rawcomponents.co.uk/fuseholders/12-pole-twin-circuit-busbar/12w-fusebox-twinrail.html

Hi everyone, I have a problem with the power steering system on my 86 classic, the problem being that its stopped working! Ive checked the fluid and bled the system for air, checked for leaks and everything is visually ok. The landrover manual states to carry out a hydraulic pressure test using a test gauge reading upto 140kgf/cm2, then "assemble test equipment and fit to vehicle, open the tap in the adaptor" but doesnt explain where to install the gauge to carry out the test, although common sense tells me on the positive pressure side from the power steering pump. Looking at the pipework I reckon I'll have to make a branch up to install the gauge into the pipe from the pump to the steering box. I would be intrested to know if anyone has carried out this test to determine whether its the pump or steering box at fault, or is there a simpler way to test?

Depending on how bad you radiator is, why not look into having it repaired? I took my leaking radiator into my local radiator works (Essex Radiators Ltd) and was pleasantly surprised how cheap it was to have it stripped, re-cored, re-painted, tested and guaranteed.